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What mods are mandatory, what's advisable

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Sgt Blamo

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I'm buying a Savage , new or used. What mods are mandatory? What are recamended, but not critical. What's the best bang for the buck BB, with good acceleration, torque and speed?
 
Different wheels, the hubs on the stock wheels strip out. Upgrade the brakes to HPI's dual disk. Get a failsafe before even running the car. A rechargable 5 cell pack is also a big one to get.
 
I think the mandatory mods are the 4 spider diffs and the servo saver mod. 5 cell Hump packs also helps you get more turning power if you have the high torque servo. I think the stock brakes are fine once you do the throttle/brake linkage mod. The newer Savages have updated wheel hexes which shouldn't strip out if you tighten them down enough. The plastic around the hex is supposed to be thicker. I'd say the diff mod is a must, the rest are just reccomended but not critical.

And for any nitro, a failsafe is alwys a good thing, though some people say its more trouble than it's worth. I run an OFNA unit in mine and have had no problems with glitching. I think someone said that they don't work well with digital servos? Anyways, hope you get your Savage soon, it's a damn fine FUN truck!
 
what i recomend but isnt very critical is aluminum chassis mounts. my plastic ones broke and those were what were prety much holdin my savage together. soi got those and now its great. a good engine that you can find pretty cheap is the hyper .21 8-port. I'm not sure if thats BB but i like that engine.
savager
 
For me in order of performance and reliablity..

#1. MP mod, 150oz+ metal geared servo, hump pack.. (this is all one to me because without the othewr the package isnt the same) I gave this #1 because fast or slow, I need to turn.

#2 4 diff spider mod f/r.. Make em last as long as possible.. Helps a lot if you use thick diff lude to controll posi action..

#3 Break upgrade.. For some reason the stock breaks (plastic ones) last me about 100 feet.. lol seriously I have never had one last me a tank, and I have had to resort to it.. The hpi dual is good but I had issues of it needing adjustment every tank.. On mt basher now i use a mixture.. One envy disk and the gpt ti vented... weird but kicks butt.. Alway the same, never fades, or needs adjustment.. Might have to use this on all my trucks..

Top speed wize.. Gear that baby up .. put a pipe on it.. it will go..

thats what got my second truck and my buddies truck through some good times. not to long after you do these you will want something new.. lol
 
Tower Hobbies Link

The MP mod has become obsolete now that HPI has come out with a reasonably priced cam type servo saver.
 
robmob said:
Tower Hobbies Link

The MP mod has become obsolete now that HPI has come out with a reasonably priced cam type servo saver.

Oh yes your right.. I am always one step behind.. So is it actually availible?
 
---1) Spider Gear Mod

---2) Upgrade steering servo (metal gear w/ >150oz @ 6v), then take the stock steering servo (SF-2) and put in on your throttle/brake.

---3) One of the new cam servo savers

---4) New tires & rims

Then simply upgrade whenever you break something or you simply have some extra $$$ and feel like spending it.

Later.....
 
SKIP said:
Oh yes your right.. I am always one step behind.. So is it actually availible?

yeah its avalible.i just received it from tower today....but it didnt show up searching for savage servo saver i had to use the part # then it came up its like $16 and some change
 
jon2 said:
Ok I want to get my savage done right so are these decent to use

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5951154872&rd=1

or is there a set that I can get that are better?


Those look pretty good, but I couldn't tell you for sure. I have never tried any of Hot Racing Products.

However, I can say that in the past year of bashing & racing with my truck. I have never torn up any gears inside the diff housing or the diff housing itself. Neither have 2 other guys that I run with. I better knock on wood. :hammer:

I used to have a problem with chipping teeth on the gears that are outside the housing. In particular the 13T Bevel gear (item #86031). I have gone through two of them and on my third one (in a year).

Personally, I would hold off on that case until you start to have problems with your diff case. I don't think it is a necessary thing to get right away. If you do the 4-spider mod it should be fine. But that's just me. However, someone who has had problems with their diff case will probably tell you otherwise.
 
Thanks Bro, I am going to try that and see what I can do with what I have now. I got the spider diff mod kit for my savage. Is there any preparations? I may consider different seals though for it.

I just think 1/8 scale diff cases and I think metal.

Thanks for the help
Digital Liquid said:
Those look pretty good, but I couldn't tell you for sure. I have never tried any of Hot Racing Products.

However, I can say that in the past year of bashing & racing with my truck. I have never torn up any gears inside the diff housing or the diff housing itself. Neither have 2 other guys that I run with. I better knock on wood. :hammer:

I used to have a problem with chipping teeth on the gears that are outside the housing. In particular the 13T Bevel gear (item #86031). I have gone through two of them and on my third one (in a year).

Personally, I would hold off on that case until you start to have problems with your diff case. I don't think it is a necessary thing to get right away. If you do the 4-spider mod it should be fine. But that's just me. However, someone who has had problems with their diff case will probably tell you otherwise.
 
jon2 said:
Do you have those Sweetdiesel?


I am not using them yet. I have over 2 gallons on my current 4 spider diffs with stock cups. I am hoping to get another gallon or so with them and then swapping over to the Maximizer cups upon rebuild. They have been used with the guys over at savage central with good success.

http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic15659.html
 
Since this is a used one I may buy some aftermarket ones. I like to to know that I have this much life left in something by rebuilding it prior to me using it.
 
First is the 4 spider mod. I did mine, after about 10 or 12 tanks. Already had wear on the housing. Put the diff lube of your choice in it. Be sure not to over-fill them.

Stock brakes suck. I stripped the plastic hub on mine. Did the dual brake upgrade and can flip it on it's top by hitting the brake. Bought the linkage, but haven't needed it yet.

Haven't saw the air cleaner or pipe mentioned yet.
I have the HPI air cleaner. Makes about 3 of the stock.
I put the hot bodies pipe on. Don't figure it is that good, but beats the heck out of stock. Do a search to see what is better.
 
I sold my RS4 and I and a friend both went a bought us a Savage 25 RTR, and man are they sweet! Problem though, we both stripped our 49T plastic spur gear after 4 tanks of gas. Since it both happened at almost the same time, would getting a metal spur gear be a must upgrade? I will have to admit that plastic gear seems cheesy and I stripped mine on my RS4 many times also. Some people have told me that I will only start stripping transmission gears if I upgrade the spur to metal, but why not then upgrade the transmission gears to metal also? Bottom line is, I dont want to have to change a freakin spur gear 2-3 time a year or more, I want better and more reliable than that. But more important, I dont want to be changing parts everytime I go run it. I used to call my RS4 the $30 dollar car, because that was what it cost everytime I ran it, and thats just wrong.
 
I'm running an 18 t pinion and a 52T spur w/ a Novarossi .28, 8 port. I hammer the crap out of it, with no damage to the plastic spur.
Make sure you let off the throttle when you're airborne!
 
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