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S

srusinek

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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I'm looking to upgrade my Tmaxx 1.5 a arms and on towerhobbies they do not mention the need to upgrade the axles and so on but on the rpm site, they say you have to upgrade to the 2.5 axles and tie rods I believe. So which site is correct and what do I need to install these arms on my Tmaxx? I'm upgrading the arms because I just purchased the traxxas big bore shocks so since the shocks will be off, why not replace the stock arms? Thanks in advance for all the help, Steve.
 
If you are going to switch to the 2.5/3.3 arms(they share the same arms) the at minimum you will need the 2.5 toe-links.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDW0&P=ML
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDY3&P=7
I do not if your old pro 15 drive shafts will slide out long enough to work, if not then you can get the 2.5 axle tubes and reuse your stub axles.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=4951X&search=Go

If you are upgrading to the 3.3 driveline then you need the 4907/08 3.3 toe-links, driveshafts and carriers.
 
The axle shafts will work just fine they do slide out far enough but you do need to change the toe links and carriers and possibly the steering bell for it to work right i did to mine
 
Thanks for the info and I'll be buying the arms at my lhs just to make sure I can get everything I need.
 
Mind as well

I went to the hobby shop today and ordered all of my parts to convert my 1.5 axles to 2.5 axles. I did not go 3.3 because all I plan on keeping in there is the OS 18 so the 2.5 would fit the plan. I purchased the following and I'm picking up everything on friday evening:

New Blue RPM A arms (4)
New axle stubs (4)
New axle shafts (4)
New Tierods or Links front and rear
New center axles (2)
New drive yokes (8)

Also as said earlier I'm bolting on big bore shocks from traxxas. Is there anything else that I need? I also noticed that the RPM arms have 3 lower holes compared to just 2 from the stock ones. Which setup do you guys run with the big bores? I plan on running my AE factory team blue springs and the supplied 30 wt oil in the shocks. Thanks, Steve
 
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if your racing move them to the outside you will also have better handling . for bashing and big air move the shocks to the inside. I have my Tmaxx set up for bashing so my shocks are on the inside I have 50wt in all shocks and yellow springs on all shocks if you move the upper to the middle and the lower to the inside you will have the most height
 
Ok thanks for the reply nikko. Actually the whole purpose of this conversion is to kinda lower the stance and make it wider to combat the roll overs and instability. Right now I have the factory team springs with the stock shocks with 50 weight oil and I have the above symptoms.
 
All you need is a set of off set rims, check out SPI racing rims for more info I put a set on my rig and the flipping over stopped no matter how fast of a turn you make
 
Might want to try a stiffer set of the AE springs as the blue is the softest they have.

You can also lower the stance of your truck, you just have to decide if your going
for big air your going to have give up some handling.

The best part is once your done with the big air you can quickly move the shock
bottoms out to the outside arm holes to lower it for better handling.
 
More work than I thought. I got the big bores today so I was looking over my truck and I noticed that the engine and gas tank have to be removed so I can get rear shocks off. Last time I took off the shocks off the truck was completely stock so with the larger engine and the larger tank, I see why their in the way. I'm going to ask the guy who really helped me out at the lhs if he has a set of springs that he would recommend. I definitely want either a blue spring or a color that's going to go with the truck.
 
For the rear shocks I just pull the 4 screws that hold the rear tower on & that will get you enough room to get to the upper shock screws.

Below are for stock Traxxas Ultra or Big Bore shocks.

Blue Dual rate springs 8 for $16 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-Maxx-E-Ma...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5648904147

Blue VG Racing spring 8 for $14 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-MAXX-TMAX...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3371f5b84f

Black RC Boys dual rate springs 8 for $10 shipped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-Maxx-E-Ma...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b92ab28f

AE MGT Blue spring 4.40lbs rate(stock maxx red is 2.5lbs)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e8a51bb1
 
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That's awesome I will remove the rear tower instead of going ahead and removing the exhaust, engine and fuel tank. I don't mind removing the said components but sometimes lining up the exhaust can be a pain.
 
So This Is What I Got Today:

These are all parts that I purchased today so I can do the conversion:
 
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I also purchased the 3.3 bulks for now due to funds, progressive springs, some screws, 30 wt shock oil and the rear bulkhead brace. I was missing the brace so I picked that up today. So far all I have left is the engine, skid plates, and fuel tank. Man this thing is already wider. One thing that I'm having trouble with is that when I put the skidplate back on, the bolts line up very true on the front. When I go to put the rear plate on, the one side I cocked a little bit. What could be causing this and how can I fix it? I was thinking of taking my channel locks with tape over them and a rag on the bulkheads and squeezing it back together. I know my diffs are on the right way because when I turn the spur gear by hand, all the axles spin in the right direction. Thanks in advance, Steve.
 
I'm ganna upgrade

the only question is willa picco .26 be hard on the 2.5 drive line if so plz give me some ideas of anothe engine that will be safe and easy to tune
 
You need to start your own thread but to answer your question, that 2.5 driveline is the same as the 1.5 driveline except the diff cups are bigger so those axles will be pretzels in a few tanks. You need to upgrade to the 3.3 driveline.
 
same with the 3.3 drive line the will dead you will need cvds but that will get you more speed.
 
Kinda Stuck

I just finished my install of all my new parts and it seems the rpm instructions are way off or I just got it plain wrong. When I install the pillow balls into the a arms to where the threads end at the end of the a arm, my tires have way too much play in them. I was wondering what the initial settings should be? Thanks, Steve
 
The pillow balls dont make the wheels loose or tight what is it that your having a problem with? If you have the axle nut tight so should be the wheel, unless your pillow ball caps are loose
 
I installled the pillow balls to the rec. setting which is to thread them until the end of the threads meet the a arm. With that setting there's a lot of play at the wheel. The wheel nuts were tight but I only tightened the caps to be flush with the axle carrier. Maybe the caps have to be tighter.
 

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