• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

What Car?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Scott Harrell

RCTalk Basher
Messages
57
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
I have had a Savage for a while now but I just discovered another side to this hobby...........on road racing. I have a local club that races twice monthly and I went to watch my first race today, awesome. I would love to start racing but what car do I start with? I will probably start in the 1/10 nitro touring division, any suggestions for a car?
 
The Nitro TC3 is a popular choice. Other's I have seen used competatively are the HPI R40, Mugen MTX-3 and Serpent 710. The Mugen and Serpent are considered to be on the higher end of the racers since adjustability and nimbleness on the track are superb.

The NTC3 and R40 are great cars as well. The NTC3 is considered to be good for the beginner to intermediate level cars. The RS43 is also in this category. The HPI R40 is a good car as well and considered to be "Mid level."

I can vouch for the NTC3 since this was my first on-road car and I used it for bashing and then racing as of last year. Now it's just a backup car for when I race. I also have the Serpent 710.

Handeling for the serpent 710 is far more superior when compared to the NTC3. It's nimble,lighter and very agile. The adjustability on it can just overwhelm you but when dialed in to your needs, it's a monster.

If you plan to race any onroad car competively, invest in setup board and tweak board. Anyone racing these cars and worth their salt, will have these tools.

For the NTC3 plan to spend at least $700 (complete) if you get it with a pull start. Add about another $100 for a starter box.

A serpent 710 will set you back about a grand for everything minus the starter box (kit =350; Engine = $250-$300 for an italian based engine;inline pipe = $100; Radio/Receiver/servos = $225 avg; body and paint = $30+)

I spent about $1300 for everything necessary including hopups and starterbox.
 
Last edited:
Maybe you might want to consider Kyosho on your list too! There are 2 types to suit your driving style, shaft drive FW-05RR or the belt drive VoneRRR. They just released the VoneRRR WC limited version, upgraded to the exact same car/hopups used by factory driver on the 1/10th WC in Brazil last year(8 Kyosho cars out of 10 in the A Main).

R40 - is not a mid level car for me - Hara san did it 2yrs in a row...

MTX3 - one the best...but if not in a hurry and can wait for Mugen.... most likely a new is due to come out!

NTC3 & 710 - are also the best too!!


If you want to know more about it...I can send you links to read more about it...Let me know...
 
I called the R40 a midlevel car based on it's adjustability when compared to the MTX-3 and Serpent 710 as well as agility. Just because hara uses it doesn't make it the best either. HE made it the best with his driving just like what Salven's driving did for the 710. I remember when he was getting used to the 710. He "stumbled alot.

RRWC is correct, don't count out the Kyosho's (FW05's and the Vone's rrr's)The V-one RR is also a great car. RatzoRC has the Vone RR, not the latest in the triple r series and t I have seen it in action. Only thing that stopped me from getting one was the availability of parts, locally, since I rarely shop online.

Just remember, just because any car may be driven by a top end driver and does well in competition ... it's all because of the driver and how his car is set up. Since you are a beginner in the on-road scene, I would suggest the NTC3 ... and get it in a kit form. You're gonna need to know how to fix it in between heats when something breaks. I had to break down the entire front end on my NTC3 when I lost my entire front suspension due to a very bad wreck.

Here on the board, the car's that I stated (MTX-3, Serpent 710, NTC3, R40) are popular racers. The guys who are pretty much the more interested in racing AND race when ever possible use these cars. You may want to address them concerning their opinions on their cars:

RatzoRc: Kyosho VoneRR
Team17: MTX-3
710baby: Serpent 710
sl0eg1n: Serpet 710, NTC3
Remy: HPI R40
and my cars: Serpent 710, NTC3

All of us have raced with and against each other at Prospeed with our cars. There's a lot of opinions but what counts is your decision. Ask any one of us on the list and we'll give you a "semi-nonbiased" answer. :whistle:
 
Last edited:
Diver6127 said:
I called the R40 a midlevel car based on it's adjustability when compared to the MTX-3 and Serpent 710 as well as agility.

What adjustment advantages do the MTX-3 and Serpent 710 offer over the R40?
 
rossb said:
What adjustment advantages do the MTX-3 and Serpent 710 offer over the R40?
I can't really speak for the MTX-3. Team17 has that car and can enlighten you on that car.

For the serpent710 you can adjust:
Roll center
DRS (dynamic rear steering) to either toe in or out during braking or acceleration in and out of turns.
Front and rear adjustable belt tensioners.
Adjustable preload for rear diff via diff clamp.
Adjustable dampening of shocks via settings in the shock itself, not hole position or oil weight.


Everything else that is adjstable is pretty much standard with all touring cars. The ones that I listed require no aditional hopups. They're already standard with the car.
 
Diver6127 said:
I called the R40 a midlevel car based on it's adjustability when compared to the MTX-3 and Serpent 710 as well as agility. Just because hara uses it doesn't make it the best either.

I didn't say it's the best, but that's true....it all depends on who's on the other end and know's what is he doing/skill. Just I felt sorry to the R40 guys here. Don't bash HPI like that, coz your a Serpent guy. "Adjustability" - maybe your one of the fast guys that messing up settings up to half of the increment on your Hudy Board every run, just to get 0.5sec off your heat - nothing wrong with that -- good for you and your 710 with it's adjustability. "Agile" - Wow... should have went Serpent all the way...no more messing up with settings it'a already agile, nimble -just racing.

Diver6127 said:
"semi-nonbiased" answer. :whistle:
Just get a Serpent - but not HPI!
 
RRRWC said:
I didn't say it's the best, but that's true....it all depends on who's on the other end and know's what is he doing/skill. Just I felt sorry to the R40 guys here. Don't bash HPI like that, coz your a Serpent guy. "Adjustability" - maybe your one of the fast guys that messing up settings up to half of the increment on your Hudy Board every run, just to get 0.5sec off your heat - nothing wrong with that -- good for you and your 710 with it's adjustability. "Agile" - Wow... should have went Serpent all the way...no more messing up with settings it'a already agile, nimble -just racing.


Just get a Serpent - but not HPI!

Apparently you have not been here long enough to know me by my posts or even met me at the track like most of those who race here in the NY Tristate area do. I never bashed HPI, I stated facts because they asked what the differences were. Most people don't even know what those differences are since they are not common on most cars.

I never implied and will never tell someone to just get a serpent instead of HPI. And I am not one of those guys that sit at the HUDY board to shave off .5 secs when I am setting it up. I do all that to get it to handle correctly and respond to how I drive it. The adjustability on the serpent is for how it reacts in a turn and also catering to the way you drive.

What Scott wants will decide what car it is. What Scott ultimately decides to keep as a racer will be based on his needs. Different levels of cars but for the beginner that is getting into the onroad, the serpent is not for him.

So with all this said, don't try to even imply that I am a "serpent guy" bashing HPI. I never bashed the R40 for racing. HPI brought out the R40 just for racing.

Learn more about those posting here before making implications and second guessing the person. Come out and race with us, if you ever get the chance. You'll see why we all even came together to push Woodie even harder for the whole "Team RCNT" idea.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I am new and am looking forward to learning as much as I can, everyone has to start somewhere. At 34 I have got off to a late start but as nice as I saw all of the people being to each other at the track I think I will be fine. I am still having trouble with what to buy so with that said I seem to be leaning towards the Associated Nitro TC3 RTR Plus, I found it at Tower Hobbies for $309. Someone recomended it I think, I like it, how is it for a begginer (i know this was covered just making sure before I drop the $$$$)? Can anyone tell me how fast it will run and do you think honestly it is a good starter, I seem to like it. I plan on getting a starter box but what else do I need? I am making a list. Agian thanks everyone for your input you guys have already been a great help. Scott.
 
Scott, the Nitro TC3 is where I first started with on-road. I actually got the kit version and I never regretted it. Associated thought and planned out the manual very well. Step by step, bag by bag ... there's no back tracking to other bags. It's all labeled from A-H (i think). But the rtr is fine too. The version2 rtr now is much better when compared to when I bought mine 2 years ago. The version1 rtr really sucked that's why I went with the team kit.

I think the RTR plus comes with a .15 engine in it and 2 speed as well. Don't expect too much from this little engine. It's not exactly a performer but it's a good place to start learning how to tune and it'll still get you going down the road at a good speed without getting into too much trouble.

As you learn, the car will grow with you. You'll start wanting to go faster and the main way to do it with this car is to get a performance engine (italian based like novarossi, mega, mugen, rb, top, rex). These engine's will cost you a pretty penny but the performance is great! Even if you don't step up to these engines right away, OS offers a nice line of engines as well, like the OS .12 TR. They hold a tune very well and take a beating.

As far as other things you will need, get yourself a failsafe. Some use it, some don't ... all for various reasons. I feel it's better safe than sorry. If you plan to race, get foams. It gives better traction but also is cost efficient. Premounted and can still be used when it chunks.

I used to use rubber tires but found myself going through a set every weekend. Rims get eaten up as well. New rims, rubber and just the time to CA it to the rim makes foams a lot more appealing. Also remember that the suspension settings for foam are different than rubber tires. The back of the manual will have the settings you need to get it to perform with a good baseline of adjustments. You don't have to get a HUDY board but get yourselt an RPM Guage at the very least. It's better than the tools they give you in the box.

Invest in a temp gun for tuning. Also, the radio they supply you with is 'ok' at the very best. I would suggest upgrading to an FM radio. If you are going to race, you might think about going synthesized so there are no crystals to cary around and you can change frequencies fairly quick.
 
if your dead set on getting the NTC3 purchase the factory team kit version. it will save you money in the long run. you'll save money on the hopups. you can choose the engine, radio, and servos. you will also learn to work on the car for those time crunching repair jobs. later on you can upgrade to a higher level car such as the serpent, mugen, etc.

i personally race a serpent 710 because it suits my driving style. you should make the decision for yourself. do some shopping around and if possible, physically examine assembled kits of other racers. you will definitely notice the difference in craftsmanship amongst the kits.

you can't make your decision based on the opinions of outside sources. it's your money so you make the decision. i do strongly suggest you only purchase kit versions. it's more economical in the long run.
 
Diver6127 said:
Come out and race with us, if you ever get the chance. You'll see why we all even came together to push Woodie even harder for the whole "Team RCNT" idea.

Thanks for the invite! Maybe one day I'll bump with you guys on the race track somewhere!

sl0eg1n said:
you can't make your decision based on the opinions of outside sources. it's your money so you make the decision. i do strongly suggest you only purchase kit versions. it's more economical in the long run.

Yup ..that's true - it will be economical that way. For sure you will be over with it (NTC3, maybe???)by the season ends. You mentioned the local club races twice a month and that's the place you get all the help you can get. Open your eye and ask what most racers ran. Coz the chance of stocking/support for parts at your local LHS will be that manufacturer plus chasing for that super sick dialed set-up is just around....

So good luck with OnRoad Racing Scott!
 
Thanks guys!!!!!!!!! There are too many cars to chose from and it is somewhat frustrating. Diver6127 you said that you spent about $700 on your NTC3 but I am seeing the RTR for $309 am I missing something? I think I may want to buy the kit because if I put it together it may help me understand the car better. Is there a good place on the night to purchse RC?
 
Well, the kit alone cost me about $250. Then the engine was another $150 (don't go all out, get a decent performer since you're still learning like the OS TR12. The radio was about $150.Starterbox was $125. Then the body,reamer, paint, glow ignitor, extra plugs, temp gun ... with everything needed to make and run the car plus the misc stuff it was abou $700.

sl0eg1n is my brother and it was him that pushed me to get the kit version and I thank him for it. If you get the Factory team kit, all the hopups are there with the kit. Nothing will be needed to really buy to make it perform at it's best. Everything else will be aftermarket (ie: chassis). The MOST IMPORTANT thing you should get ... other than a failsafe, is what's called "The Fix" It can't be bought at most LHS's. It is distributed through eBay. It basically makes your front end more bullet proof. It ties your shock tower and diff case together with a nut and bolt that goes from the chassis to the shocktower and mends it as one. I went through 2 front ends in 1 race before getting it.

Remember, you put it together .. you'll know how to tear it apart and fix what's necessary. BTW, when you race bring extra parts. I usually bring enough to make 2 complete front ends, extra servos, driveline, fuel tank, suspension parts ...

RRWC, the places we attended last year and this year are pretty vast in their scheduling. The one we are going to this Sunday, BARCARC, is a twice a month thing as opposed to Prospeed R/C Raceway which is every sunday, weather permitting. NERCAR holds schedules as well and the one that I am hearing everyone rave about is R/C Madness. In short, every sunny weekend will see a race.

The invite is open to ANYONE who wants to race competatively in an organized fashion.
 
Last edited:
SCott, don't commit yet. Give me a detailed list of what you want. My LHS will ship to you if you want. THey don't take paypal or cc over the phone BUT they do the Echeck thing with your checking account.

They will meet and beat online prices. Plus, since it's through me, you'll get a good price. Let me know before you commit. $806 is way too much for an NTC3
 
Scott Harrell said:
Change 806................I think I am going with the R40.

Whoa....that's too much - might as well consider other Kits.

Alright you mentioned R40...

FYI.... last year HPI Japan released an R40 2004 edition which only available of course in Japan only. This move made USA owners a lil upset, coz 2004 edition will not be released here. Eventhough... some didn't make it so big - coz they know they can still get it.... Where? Japan & HK stores.

Just checked it awhile ago.... R40 2004 edition it goes $330

Here's a link from HPI Japan...I apologize, it's not english - but you will see a picture of the parts that made it 2004 edition or you can use a translator..

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/kits/r40/2004.html

Update regarding the OS12TR...as per Tower

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=7

that will be the specs you are getting... an SG Shaft & Slide

then heres the reason why.... but only available overseas and soon will be here...

http://groups.msn.com/tg10ros/os12tz.msnw?Page=1

It will be available like an egine/pipe combo too...check it out pics below

Also if you go HPI.... you can go race @ the HPI Challenge. I heard it will be somewhere in Ohio...that's not final yet - but people are talking about it already... :)
 

Attachments

  • NewOS&Pipecombo.webp
    NewOS&Pipecombo.webp
    13 KB · Views: 106
  • OS12TZ.webp
    OS12TZ.webp
    13.5 KB · Views: 90
Last edited:
Diver6127.........I greatly appreciate your offer however I am going to stay loyal my LHS. The guy who runs it Josh, has been a tremendous help to me with my savage and I didnt even buy the truck from him. I am going to meet with him on Thursday to order everything. Again thanks for all of your help but I feel like I should really support my friends shop as he has gave me a lot of free advise and fixed the truck a few times for free and his prices are good. Thanks, Scott.
 
Back
Top