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Werks Adj Clutch

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T

toscano1

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Any body run this on thier savage ?? Little pricey but heard great reviews....
 
I do and so does Sweetdiesel. I know I love my set up. I use the carbon shoes. Pretty aggressive. I am opting to try the aluminum ones to compare the difference
 
Yep, I'm running the werks clutch also and I love it compared to the stock 3 shoe clutch. You can have your clutch hook up instantly or later depending on your driving style and adjusting the spring tension is very easy. I am running the carbon shoes and they hook up very well. I have about 1.5 gallons on them and they are showing very little wear. Another good thing about the werks clutch is no more clutch springs to mess up while installing. RushRC has them for a great price.

http://rushrc.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/6476
 
Thanks,

I will purchase the clutch next week when I pickup my RC solutions roll cage and Robinson R gears
 
Nice, looks like your getting some good all around bash protection, but I am wondering why the Robinson gears? Are you having problems with stripped spurs?
 
SD How far in is your spring compressed? For more aggressiive launches I compress the spring and for less I leave it less compressed. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
Yes, you are correct. Compressing the spring will make it harder for the clutch shoes to move outward to contact the clutchbell. Don't compress too far at once though or else you may end up hooking up way late and damage your drivetrain. Right now I have the adjustment nut 3/4 turn tighter than flush. I would start at stock setting which is flush and tighten/loosen 1/4 turn from there to fit your style. Don't forget the locktite! :)
 
Last edited:
perfect timing on this thread. Just got my werks clutch in for my Collari 30 motor. However... the 18 tooth clutch bell does not seem to be "long" enough for it. when i get it all assembled i can still see a bit of the clutch pads. It's almost as if the flywheel nut/clutch tension assy is holding it out too far. the brass bushing that was on my savage wont fit on the end of the shaft before i put the washer and screw in the shaft. if you have any pics of the assy on your trucks i'd appreciate it.


TIA
 
Nevaren said:
perfect timing on this thread. Just got my werks clutch in for my Collari 30 motor. However... the 18 tooth clutch bell does not seem to be "long" enough for it. when i get it all assembled i can still see a bit of the clutch pads. It's almost as if the flywheel nut/clutch tension assy is holding it out too far. the brass bushing that was on my savage wont fit on the end of the shaft before i put the washer and screw in the shaft. if you have any pics of the assy on your trucks i'd appreciate it.


TIA
Click to expand...
Is your collet in properly and is it the right one? Mine has plenty of room to spare.
 
Oooops sorry totally forgot about that. With the Collari .30 and werks clutch combo you need a CB that has a longer bell section. I used an OFNA vented one and it will cover the shoes completely. Here's the same one I have

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL96&P=7

I believe hot bodies also makes CB that is longer but I'd take your stock bell to the LHS and see what will be about 1.5 mm longer. You can have about .5 mm of clutch shoe showing since the shoes move up and out when they engage.

With the OFNA bell installed you will no longer need the brass bushing.


I'll post some pics tonight.
 
collet is the one from the S25 HPI motor, seated against the crankshaft bearing. tightened the flywheel nut down using a pair of channel locks on the flywheel.
 
Some pics of my clutch

with stock clutchbell, bell section is 12mm thick, 20mm overall thickness

IMG_0093.webp


OFNA vented clutchbell, bell section is 13mm thick, 23mm overall thickness

IMG_0079.webp


Clutch adjustment nut setting at flush (stock setting)

IMG_0097.webp


3/4 turns tight

IMG_0100.webp


I used the stock collet from my Savage since the one supplied with the Collari has a diamater that was too small. The thick end of the collet will need to be sanded down slightly. Real easy with some sandpaper and some elbow grease, I'm sure a dremel would have been easier but I didn't want to take off too much material. Clearance between the flywheel and the engine casing is just a tad under .5 mm. With my set-up there was no need for shims or brass bushings.

Hope this helps!
 
Great Pics. .. thanks a ton for the info SD. Parts ordered hopefully get it broken in this weekend.
 
I'm definantly going to get one for mu mugen. I might get one for the savy when i get the collari. That will most likely be around agust. Anyone got the link for the alu shoe kit?
 
Got the Ofna clutch bell installed installed on the werks clutch set up, Just like the pics, (thanks sd), and mounted the Collari 30 mill in my savage... got er started 2nd pull and idled thru 1st tank no sweat.
The collari mill seems much louder than the stock s25, so going to wait till tomorrow to finish the break in tanks. No need to annoy the folks who live around me..
 
For Racing , I would go with the rulon shoes. Rulon shoes make the clutch slightly more difficult to dial in becuase you need to make your spring tension adjustment to compensate for them heating up. For bashing go with carbon shoes, or a combination of 2 carbon and 2 rulon for more bite.

Warning, rulon shoes wear out VERY quickly, I've seen them last as little as 4 tanks, and stay away from water. Water + heat + rulon = chunky shoes.

Hope this helps.
 
sweetdiesel said:
For Racing , I would go with the rulon shoes. Rulon shoes make the clutch slightly more difficult to dial in becuase you need to make your spring tension adjustment to compensate for them heating up. For bashing go with carbon shoes, or a combination of 2 carbon and 2 rulon for more bite.

Warning, rulon shoes wear out VERY quickly, I've seen them last as little as 4 tanks, and stay away from water. Water + heat + rulon = chunky shoes.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks man.. :cheers:
 

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