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Wasp .28 questions

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Markanthony

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Hearing a lot of good things about the .28!!! Good to hear because I picked one up for X-mas. I am running the .26 with a THS pipe and am wondering if anyone changed Pipes for the bigger engine. Also, did you have to increase weight of diff oil? Were there any changes you had to make going from a .26 to the .28?
thanks for your responses.
 
I would'nt think you would have to change to a different pipe when only switching from a .26 to a .28. If you have a big block exhaust, it shouldnt matter. I believe the case sizes are the same with the 2 engines, so i think you can just drop the .28 in the .26's place.
 
hi I've got a wasp .28 in my savage,the only thing i had to change was the clutch bell from a 13 tooth to a 16 couldnt keep the front wheels on the ground and be carefull with the pull start it breaks dead easy,broke mine on the first day now i use a roto start as for the diff oil if you have the spider mod i wouldnt worry
 
Thanks for your Input. My new engine is still in the box! It is driving me crazy just looking at it. No time untill after new years.
 
When you first break in the WASP be sure to heat up the head, block and gas tank before you start it to loosen up the internals a bit. This will help you get her started without stripping out the one-way bearing. After she is fully broken you won't have to do the warming up bit anymore, but right out of the box the WASP has very high compression. You can also loosen the glow plug a smidge to help her get started the first time.
 
sweetdiesel said:
When you first break in the WASP be sure to heat up the head, block and gas tank before you start it to loosen up the internals a bit. This will help you get her started without stripping out the one-way bearing. After she is fully broken you won't have to do the warming up bit anymore, but right out of the box the WASP has very high compression. You can also loosen the glow plug a smidge to help her get started the first time.
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Why would you heat up the gas tank? I never heard of heating gas to help it start. Wouldnt this make the nitro go in to the air alot faster?
 
It was suggested to me when I was having starting problems with my WASP. I would guess that getting everything closer to your engines operating temperature will help you start it more easily. I no longer have to warm anything up nowadays since my motor is fully broken in, but if my suggestion for warming up the tank is wrong, please correct me.

see 5th post from the top

http://rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24447&page=2
 
I Have never heard of heating the tank either, but I don't see how it could hurt, or make it any harder to start. It would make sense that if everything is closer to running temp it would be more likely to start.

Like others have said, it is a direct fit in a savage. You will not need to change the tuned pipe unless you want to. Any big block will work fine with any big block tuned pipe, it just depends on what RPM range you want your power in.

Good luck with your Wasp .28, I could never let mine sit there for more than a few minutes lol. Even If I couldn't break it in for some reason, I would still take it out of the box and drool :D
 
It is killing me that I can't break her in now. Thanks for the tips. I'll warm her up a bit and loosen the glow plug. did you use the roto start or pull start to break in. I hate blisters! ha
 
Ah, another break-in suggestion is to hand lap it. In other words get a flywheel wrench, take out the glow plug, put a few drops of after run oil in and turn the fly wheel with the wrench about 100 times. My LHS did this for me when my Hyper 8P was new because the pinch was so tight the piston would lock at the top of the cylinder and you could not turn it over with the PS.
 
Markanthony said:
did you use the roto start or pull start to break in. I hate blisters! ha
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Well a way to not get blisters is to use a glove like a gardening one, Someone gave me that tip and iv never gotten a blister since. Well except the time i forgot the glove when i went to a friends house to run man do they hurt, good luck
 
I used a plug in drill, because the Roto Start wasn't powerful enough to turn it over with all that pinch. After the first three tanks I was able to start it with Roto Start.

I origionally tried to break it in with the PS but it broke before it even started once. The string just ripped right through the wheel! Word of advice: don't even try to break it in with the pull start. If it manages to nmot break yoyur gunna have a huge ass blister.
 

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