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wasp .21sb setup

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V

vdubois

RC Newbie
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Has anyone else tried running the wasp.21 sb. I have looked all over for articles on this engine and they are hard to find. I purchased one about a mont ago and it seems to run good when the temp gets over 240. below that it seems to bog down. The paper that came with the engine said to run it at 200 and that just didnt sound right. Another problem is with the engine set at factory settings hs= 4 1/2 ls=7 1/2 it runs hot. Just wondering if anyone else has tried this motor. :shrug: I added about 2 teeth on the clutch bell and went to a 68 on the spur, I'm trying to find a decent aftermarket exhaust to see if that will help it any b/c the stock t-maxx pipe is a junker. :hammer:
 
Well, 200 is too low for a normal running temp. The engine should be OVER 210 at the minimum, but even there, it should be pumping smoke like no other. It is not uncommon to run an engine around 270-290 just because some like to run hotter than others. With the factory settings, is there a lot of smoke? How hot is hot?
 
hot

I started taking things apart last night, I'm gonna make sure there isnt an air leak. I siliconed the carb when I first put it on but the pinch screw seemed a little weird. With what the paper says is the stock settings it is running around 300+ which is way too hot. I'm thinking that on the instructions the high and low settings might be reversed. It says 4 1/2 on high and 7 on the low but to get it running cool and smoking good I have to put the high speed at around 6 1/2. Can anyone else put in there :2cents: on this.
 
Factory settings are a general setting. It doesn't mean that you have to run it there. They give you a baseline for you to get started and then you tune for the performance you want. When I start tuning an engine I get it to run like I want it to, with plenty of smoke. Then I check the temps, if they are way to high I richen up a bit, but if they are below 270ish the I usually say its fine. I have read that some of the wasp engines like to run HOT, but I'm not sure which, or if all of them run that way.
 
beginner

This t-maxx is my first venture into nitro rc so I'm trying to go really easy on this motor. I went threw a 2.5 and a 2.5r in abour 1 1/2 months of getting this truck. I've never dealt with nitro and my last rc's were a wild willy and a grass hopper about 15 years ago so I'm learning as i go with this one.

Since Orion is closed until after the new years does anyone know if the cooling heads interchangeble or or is there a good aftermarket head for these. My lhs sucks so you can't get a right answer from there. They are the king of wrong parts.
 
Thanks I was just looking at those. i think once i get a roll cage i will have to change out mine, its already looking a little abused. :boxing:
 
scratches and even cracked fins won't affect the performance.....before looking at hopping it up just settle back and try to fix the issues at hand....too many new people in the hobby think buying this part or that part will fix issues....90% of the issues people have w/ nitro RCs is just not understanding them or not being sure they understand it and just "try" things.......VB gave a real good bit of truth & advice up there.....these NEED to be tuned almost daily...I can't go out w/ mine and not touch a screw......If you want peak performance you need to understand what all the carb settings are doing....and be able to read the signs as your mill is running.....sounds like you have a pretty good idea about the running conditions you need but just aren't savvy w/ making the adjustments yet.......if you can check out the "ultimate nitro tuning guide" book...not the DVD......
http://www.southeastrc.com/Items/StdItemView.aspx?lookup=MANDVD02
 
To me, it really sounds like an air leak. You need to seal the carb AND backplate to make sure you arent missing anything. Make sure the cooling head screws are tight and no fuel is comming out between the sleeve and the head.
 
Okay, i removed the carb and back plate and resealed them all with rtv. THe engine still runs hot at factory settings so I had to back the hsn out almost 2 turns. It runs good until i run it hard for a minute and then when i come back it is pushing 300 degrees. I have replaced the fuel tank and lines recently. I am running 20% nitro. Would upgrading the exhaust help any, I am still running the stock t-maxx exhaust? I am starting to run out of options with this engine. It seems like no matter how rich i set it once i start running the truck it gets hot.
 
Update

I richened the lsn about 2 turns now i can't keep my t-maxx on its wheels. I broke more parts yesterday than i have since i hit the light pole the first day I got it. Even though the engine was a little pricey I think it is worth it. this thing has insane power now. I think i am going to hold off on the new exhaust for right now because for once i can honestly say it is fast enough "for now". Thanks for all the help with the temp problems everyone. Now i guess ill be replacing shafts and gears next. :banana
 
Yeah i wouldnt change the exhaust any time soon. That stock exhaust has a lot more back pressure than anything else your going to get on the market. If anything getting a new exhaust would lean out your car and cause the engine to break (rod piston sleeve ect.).
just my
:2cents:
 
frony bearing

After applyiying some soap and water to the engine I think I have found the tuninig problem. There is a giant air leak in the front bearing. It was blowing giant bubbles behind the flywheel. SO glad I didn't toast the engine. From what little I have found about this motor it seems to be a common problem. I dont know if I'm allowed to post links but this article saved my engine http://www.rchobbies.org/engine-tuning.htm maybe it can help someone else too.
 

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