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WANT TO KILL MY 2.5!!!! (tuning)

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M

Maxxcrazy88

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OK heres the story it will not run for crap.... I have replaced fuel lines, reverted to stock settings (about 10 times) but it will not idle for more than 2 seconds ( I have the Idle Much higher than it should be) not even long enough for me to turn a 180* U turn... I am relly tired of it.... I think it started about 6 tanks in on my first gallon of o'donnel 20%
(after two of Top Fuel) it used to just die at half tank and be hard to restart but after I got it started it ran fine..... now it dies at 3/4 and refuses to Idle after that.If I let off the throttle it dies instantly....
and I am also hearing a rattling nose I've never heard before.....
if you need anymore info on sytoms etc. let me know

Thanks
-Maxx
 
That's what I was thinking but the compression is the same as the day after I broke it in (both after engine was cool)

Thats what gets me...
 
is it overheating? that's the only other thing I can think of...maybe try richening up the high speed and low speed and see what that does..give the high a 1/4 and low 1/8 both rich

also, do the pinch test with the low speed...correct me if i'm wrong, but pinch the fuel tube and if it dies immediately then it's too lean and if it take more than a few seconds then it's too rich...but if it takes 1-2 seconds for it to die then it's just right
 
The bad thing is I've tried that already...
I might be overheating but I don't think so...... I use the water drop test (don't have enough $$ for a temp gun) and it says it's just right...... They say to replace the conrod after 3 gallons I'm just wondering if mine is stretched (clanking noise).........
 
well if you're gonna replace the connecting rod, then i'd just rebuild the whole engine and keep the old piston/sleeve con rod as a backup.

That's the only thing I can think of.
 
yep

Yep its either warrenty it or rebuild it yourself. I chose to rebuild mine and bite the bullet....

I just went with the piston and cylider.

I had the same symptoms. start right up fist thing at the track then no idle, unless I had it 1/4 turn from the bottom on the low speed needle....but then it would die before transfering to the highspeed circuit (too lean on the bottom end)....

then if I could keep it running, after 1 tank of fuel.....it would be hell to start and every thing would go down hill from there.

I just broke in my new piston and cylinder last week and took it to the track....:thumbup:

That rebuild was the ticket for me. I read about problems like this all day long on the forums but, locally, I'm only one of 2 people having had this issue....
 
I had the problem with my rustler. I wouldn't go for anything. I went through a whole tank trying to get it to run. Mess with your low speed i played with every needle tell I got it right. One needle at a time though. I thought I needed a rebuild to. If your compression is fine the engine shouldn't be toast. Take your time and play with it thats what I did.
 
NOW YOU TELL ME!!!!!!!!!!!!


J/K
I tore it apart and the Con rod was stretched and had beat the (insert word here) out of the piston so I had to rebuild it (still need to break it again...... Soooooooo much fun)
 
ya man you 2.5 sure is cool (laugh laugh under my breath wile i caught)
 

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