UltegraSTI
RCTalk Addict
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- RC Driving Style
buy the pro.
thoroughly annoyed w/the cheaped out issues plaguin the RTR (never will buy an RTR again, didnt when i was a kid, but new 2 nitro i tried it, mistake).
since u'll want 2 change the steering servo and radio system out 4 starters.
wheels and tires are useless for a 'racing' truck like this. granted many trucks need a tire swap, so this complaint its still mild
parts you must change or else will break quick
steering plate (in favor of bearing equipped pro version, did that b4 ran the car)
knuckles (cast 1s are junk and sometimes dont have full threads in screwhole)
kingpin holders (cast come loose after every tank w/o fail. threadlock or not)
outer hingepins (need use shock shafts w/locknuts instead of dinky collars)
diff lube over factory grease (drivin this thing w/o it waste of time)
shock towers (bent 1st heat, get the pros and compare)
linkage (2 hard 2 work with, 10bux on a dynamite)
washers for the knuckles in their carriers!!!! factory there's none, but the bolts are too long and will hit the universal, so b4 u kill a knuckle, bolt, univ, carrier and/or a wheel. washers, mine needed 2 on top and 1 on bottom.
the chassis brackes are a joke, just a leftover tierod front and rear. 40bux 4 the pro's.
plastic bellcrank bushings? what is this a tamiya kit.
a fixed servo saver pipe w/a big e-clip. but then 30bux+ 4 the right pipe w/adj !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wth!
nothing is loctited....so go get some and make it a part of ur complete rebuild b4 running.
the fact that u have 2 tear down the car b4 u run it b/c there's so much 2 check over 4 mistakes or binds. and there were a ton of binds. and this is a race truck.
small cheap pistons w/some that have flashin on them leftover that causes stickin.
a dinky spring 4 an antenna holder, fork over 10bux 4 the ally 1 that u will have 2 massage the radio box w/a dremel some to use.
the air filter is a joke, get some1 elses. didnt bother w/it. looked so cheap.
no turnbuckle wrenches. had 2 buy 1 from hpi (6mm) and from traxxas revo kit (5mm)
the glow starter (u know the AA version) lol....maybe get 1 cold start. lam3.
clutch springs that are too soft. need to replace w/mugen 1.1s. while ur at it throw in some decent shoes (GS heavy duty or other).
13T bell is almost too much 4 all but the street and a long course. have 2 get OFNAs 12T bell
body mounts and their stock screws. need 2 follow the pro article and use longer machined thread and locknuts or else they just keep loosenin up.
the spoiler, hehe, breaks off on ur 1st nose up (or over) landing. like my truck needs downforce (or advertising).
whats w/all the stickers (i know many companies do this, like all electronics where it has a sticker on the product glitzin every feature).
mentioned the servo saver pipe. did i mention there's no real servo saver at all. just the stock pipe and a given (soft) setting
routing the fuel line around the head and on the manifold to the needle. yeash. and the pressure pipe thru the bellcrank. recut and routed that issue away from its problem areas.
no fuel filter (small gripe, no most dont, but c'mon thats a $250 engine there)
chassis is soft, the wear is what i expected. but the cast kingpin holders loosening all the time have oblong'd 1 of the chassis holes.
radio box designer should be taken to court 4 stupidity.
the fact that most of these are a prob for Storm RTR folks, and will be 4 people goin out and buyin the Storm RTR Plus.
are their issues and common changes needed on most RTR trucks? yes. are the 1s needed 4 this truck excessive yes. i met 2 racers at the race i did last wkend that were runnin revos now after dumpin their SUTs last spring. have i fixed most of these issues yes, now its a weapon. could a PRO have solved that issues right outta the box, yes. should have i bought the revo? many things tell me i wish i did, or a TNX if it didnt have unsealed diffs and a .18 (cldnt run in a small block class).
this is just a vent (got finished puttin the Pro Towers on b4 this) and a warning to those lookin at this Truggy. i urge all buyers (or owners) of this truck to go over the team tech article shown on here in a couple threads, its timely, but its winter. go 4 it. u'll have a much better truck. A good weapon, yes absolutely. want 1? buy the pro....if ur lookin 4 an RTR (ie ur new 2 R/C or nitro and want somethin better than a trad MT), this isnt ur truck. you WILL spend more than u did 2 get a pro, ur choice motor and radio.
speakin of that, the highlight of this truck. the motor. the power, the ease of tune, the versatility. even when in breakin or initial tuning. very solid piece thats cheap to rebuild.
and she'll prolly race this wkend. after i remove the last steering bind on the left corner.
happy holidays and best of luck to all SUT racers this winter (if app).
-Ult
thoroughly annoyed w/the cheaped out issues plaguin the RTR (never will buy an RTR again, didnt when i was a kid, but new 2 nitro i tried it, mistake).
since u'll want 2 change the steering servo and radio system out 4 starters.
wheels and tires are useless for a 'racing' truck like this. granted many trucks need a tire swap, so this complaint its still mild
parts you must change or else will break quick
steering plate (in favor of bearing equipped pro version, did that b4 ran the car)
knuckles (cast 1s are junk and sometimes dont have full threads in screwhole)
kingpin holders (cast come loose after every tank w/o fail. threadlock or not)
outer hingepins (need use shock shafts w/locknuts instead of dinky collars)
diff lube over factory grease (drivin this thing w/o it waste of time)
shock towers (bent 1st heat, get the pros and compare)
linkage (2 hard 2 work with, 10bux on a dynamite)
washers for the knuckles in their carriers!!!! factory there's none, but the bolts are too long and will hit the universal, so b4 u kill a knuckle, bolt, univ, carrier and/or a wheel. washers, mine needed 2 on top and 1 on bottom.
the chassis brackes are a joke, just a leftover tierod front and rear. 40bux 4 the pro's.
plastic bellcrank bushings? what is this a tamiya kit.
a fixed servo saver pipe w/a big e-clip. but then 30bux+ 4 the right pipe w/adj !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! wth!
nothing is loctited....so go get some and make it a part of ur complete rebuild b4 running.
the fact that u have 2 tear down the car b4 u run it b/c there's so much 2 check over 4 mistakes or binds. and there were a ton of binds. and this is a race truck.
small cheap pistons w/some that have flashin on them leftover that causes stickin.
a dinky spring 4 an antenna holder, fork over 10bux 4 the ally 1 that u will have 2 massage the radio box w/a dremel some to use.
the air filter is a joke, get some1 elses. didnt bother w/it. looked so cheap.
no turnbuckle wrenches. had 2 buy 1 from hpi (6mm) and from traxxas revo kit (5mm)
the glow starter (u know the AA version) lol....maybe get 1 cold start. lam3.
clutch springs that are too soft. need to replace w/mugen 1.1s. while ur at it throw in some decent shoes (GS heavy duty or other).
13T bell is almost too much 4 all but the street and a long course. have 2 get OFNAs 12T bell
body mounts and their stock screws. need 2 follow the pro article and use longer machined thread and locknuts or else they just keep loosenin up.
the spoiler, hehe, breaks off on ur 1st nose up (or over) landing. like my truck needs downforce (or advertising).
whats w/all the stickers (i know many companies do this, like all electronics where it has a sticker on the product glitzin every feature).
mentioned the servo saver pipe. did i mention there's no real servo saver at all. just the stock pipe and a given (soft) setting
routing the fuel line around the head and on the manifold to the needle. yeash. and the pressure pipe thru the bellcrank. recut and routed that issue away from its problem areas.
no fuel filter (small gripe, no most dont, but c'mon thats a $250 engine there)
chassis is soft, the wear is what i expected. but the cast kingpin holders loosening all the time have oblong'd 1 of the chassis holes.
radio box designer should be taken to court 4 stupidity.
the fact that most of these are a prob for Storm RTR folks, and will be 4 people goin out and buyin the Storm RTR Plus.
are their issues and common changes needed on most RTR trucks? yes. are the 1s needed 4 this truck excessive yes. i met 2 racers at the race i did last wkend that were runnin revos now after dumpin their SUTs last spring. have i fixed most of these issues yes, now its a weapon. could a PRO have solved that issues right outta the box, yes. should have i bought the revo? many things tell me i wish i did, or a TNX if it didnt have unsealed diffs and a .18 (cldnt run in a small block class).
this is just a vent (got finished puttin the Pro Towers on b4 this) and a warning to those lookin at this Truggy. i urge all buyers (or owners) of this truck to go over the team tech article shown on here in a couple threads, its timely, but its winter. go 4 it. u'll have a much better truck. A good weapon, yes absolutely. want 1? buy the pro....if ur lookin 4 an RTR (ie ur new 2 R/C or nitro and want somethin better than a trad MT), this isnt ur truck. you WILL spend more than u did 2 get a pro, ur choice motor and radio.
speakin of that, the highlight of this truck. the motor. the power, the ease of tune, the versatility. even when in breakin or initial tuning. very solid piece thats cheap to rebuild.
and she'll prolly race this wkend. after i remove the last steering bind on the left corner.
happy holidays and best of luck to all SUT racers this winter (if app).
-Ult
