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Vspec-21

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pissant

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Ok I have the O.S. Vspec-21 and I havent even started it yet. What should I do to get this baby ready. I have the rtv copper silicone stuff, where should I put it on? any other tips? :smoke:
 
Ok i have one and its a bia. I have only gotten 2 tanks through. Heat gun, dont use odonnels for break in. Seal carb and back plate.
 
i sealed my back plate and carb on my v-spec, but use just a bare minimum, as the engine is very well machined and parts fit extremely well. for the first few starts i used a heat gun to get the engine/head up to about 200 degrees, you will come to find out this engine is friggin tight and it will get stuck at top dead center a few times during break in. i used a screw driver thru the flywheel hole in the chassis to pry the flywheel unstuck when that happend.
after about 1 gallon the engine will loosen up and really show its stuff. with an extra shim on 30% trinity monster with an rex 086 pipe stock p3 plug the engine makes more power than many drivers will ever need, at about 210 degrees for me after a 20 minute main.
 
Be prepared to get it stuck pretty hard at TDC! I spent the last two days getting mine broken in. Also, they recommend setting the HSN at 3 turns out. That was ok for the first 3 tanks but I started to lean it quite a bit after that as I could not get my temps over 180 at first. I have gone through 6 tanks ont he stand and will run it on the ground today. Final temps yesterday was 200 with no load on the engine.
 
Got a couple questions on this, please bare with me:

a) rtv copper silicone - does this go by anyother names, and where to get it easily? (towerhobbies maybe? I've searched no luck)

Update: found this on ebay, would it work?

c2_1_b.webp


b) sealing the carb, apply on the o'ring right?

c) back plate, the plate at the rear end of the crank shaft held down by 4 screws - apply on its seal?

Thanks :)
 
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bsodmike said:
Got a couple questions on this, please bare with me:

a) rtv copper silicone - does this go by anyother names, and where to get it easily? (towerhobbies maybe? I've searched no luck)

b) sealing the carb, apply on the o'ring right?

c) back plate, the plate at the rear end of the crank shaft held down by 4 screws - apply on its seal?
Click to expand...

In the US, "Permatex Ultra Copper" is the preferred stuff.
Here in the UK , you can get "Pro-Seal Copper XS", its basically the same stuff. I've never seen it at Halfords, only at motor factors.

That black stuff you mentioned will probably work, but ideally you want something that is described as "hi-temp RTV silicone". Also look for something that is described as being "oxygen sensor safe". The fumes given off by some RTV sealers can attack oxygen sensors and also glow plug filaments. Leave it to cure for 24 hours after applying before running your engine, for best results.

The Pro-Seal Red hi-temp RTV will be OK and is significantly cheaper than the Pro-Seal Copper XS. Both are rated at 700F (370C).

To seal the carb, apply at the top of the carb neck where the carb body mates with the crank case.

To seal the back plate, apply to the face of the back plate where it mates with the back of the crank case.

If you can avoid contaminating the O-rings, they can be reused when the engine is dismantled and reassembled. Ideally the RTV will work in addition to, not instead of, the O-ring seals.
 
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Thanks a lot niggs, I grabbed some Pro-Seal Copper XS Hi-temp off ebay, new for a fiver :D

So as I understand, this means lift off the carb, apply sealant around the O-ring area, fit it back and apply a bit more to the outside of the seal? (just making sure).

As for the back plate, this means removing the 4 screws and doing something similar?

Couldn't one just apply it on the outside of this mating surfaces?

Ohh niggs I also gotta ask, where do you race yer buggy in yorkshire? I've not found ANY 1/8th scale tracks anywhere...
 
bsodmike said:
So as I understand, this means lift off the carb, apply sealant around the O-ring area, fit it back and apply a bit more to the outside of the seal? (just making sure).

As for the back plate, this means removing the 4 screws and doing something similar?

Couldn't one just apply it on the outside of this mating surfaces?

Ohh niggs I also gotta ask, where do you race yer buggy in yorkshire? I've not found ANY 1/8th scale tracks anywhere...
Click to expand...

This RTV sealer is sold as "instant gasket". By definition, a gasket is sandwiched between the mating surfaces of the parts you want to seal. Put the RTV on one surface, let it set for a while and then mate the two surfaces together and fasten up. Wipe off any surplus that gets squeezed out of the joint.

If you just daub it over the outside of the joint it will probably fall off. If you place in the joint it is held in place by the two components that are fastened together.

I race on the sports field behind my house on a track marked out on the grass. Some of my mates race at the Nook Raceway at Lofthouse near Wakefield (www.nookraceway.com). They race 1/8 buggies and 1/6 Marders there.
 
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I've had this engine since last june. I haven't used any sealant on it. Mine never needed it. With any engine I wouldn't use sealant unless you need to and if it is leaking it needs new seals. Infact I don't seal any of my engines. If you are going to care for it and make sure it's okay internally like check the tolerance on the rear bearing at times, maybe every 1/2 gallon, and cleaning, don't use sealant it'll gum up the engine. The carb neck has a phenolic collar on it for heat insulation are you sure you want to gum this up with silicone? As stated earlier it's a high quality engine with tight tolerances it shouldn't leak until it gets real old or maybe one didn't put it together correctly?
 

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