Vanquish Origin Classic in progress

[desmobob]

Love the fact the wheels have little scale valves.!!

At first, I thought they were nice but a little superfluous. But when I started looking at photos of 1:1 Scouts with white steelies, I saw how noticeable the black valve stems are. Now, I appreciate them more as an excellent scale detail on the Hot Racing wheels.

 

[Doom!]

Looks great, I understand the struggle, had a few go that way myself. Sometimes it's best to walk away and come back fresh the next day.

 

[xjtorc]

Looks great, I understand the struggle, had a few go that way myself. Sometimes it's best to walk away and come back fresh the next day.

Don't listen to this guy. Taking his advice leads to exponential delays in productivity when it comes to completing a project.

 

[WickedFog]

I couldn't stand the horrible photo I posted in the "What did you get in the mail today" thread, so I took a better one. I'm waiting on paints so I can do my first Lexan body paint job. I ordered some 4.65" Falken WildPeak scale-looking tires.

For wheels, I'm going with what I remember to be popular truck wheels in the '70s: the white painted steel type. https://www.amainhobbies.com/hot-ra...lug-wagon-wheels-white-4-hrablw19ss38/p712599

I'm hoping they'll look good with my dark red body and white roof paint scheme.

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There is a trick that comes in really handy for beadlocks sometimes. Get two screws a size or two longerto get everything pulled together a bit, then start adding your normal screws.

 

[WickedFog]

I received my Hot Racing 1.9" wheels yesterday. They were extremely frustrating to assemble with the Vanquish tires I also purchased.

The wheels use six socket head screws that go through the SLW hub from the vehicle side and then through both sides of the wheel. The outside half of the wheel is secured with tiny nuts.

It was impossible for me to squeeze the wheel halves together and then thread on the tiny nuts. I ended up using the plastic clamp shown in the photo. I tried lubing up the wheels with some soap and water but, as soon as I began tightening the lug nuts, the tire bead would start to get squeezed out of place. I cleaned off the lube and tried wiping all th surfaces down with alcohol to increase the grip. I eventually got all four tires mounted and running reasonably true. I almost resorted to a using tiny bit of superglue to keep the beads in place during assembly.

The look is what I was shooting for... that '70s white painted steel wheel style that was popular on trucks when I was a teen. They even have tiny valve stems.

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It is truely baffling why out of thousands of wheel designs and finish options, the plain white steelies in my opinion are the perfect wheel for just about any truck with just about any paintjob. What's even more baffling is that seems to be a common opinion. That is going to look so sick!

 

[desmobob]

There is a trick that comes in really handy for beadlocks sometimes. Get two screws a size or two longerto get everything pulled together a bit, then start adding your normal screws.

That was the first thing I was going to try, except my fairly large assortment of hardware lacked screws that would be long enough. Time to augment my supply!

 

[desmobob]

One more shot from a lower angle... I'm liking the look of these wheels.

 

[WickedFog]

That was the first thing I was going to try, except my fairly large assortment of hardware lacked screws that would be long enough. Time to augment my supply!

Monsterbolts.com

 

[desmobob]

I finished the model except for adding LED lights. I have an old light kit from my R/C airplane days that will work perfectly. I do love the look of the painted white steelies.

I screwed up the masking when I laid it out and ended up with a funky border between the roof and front windows. Also, I backed the Tamiya Bright Mica Red with white and it came out a little more on the orange side than I hoped. (It's not quite as orange as it looks in my photos.) I probably should have used black to back it.

Adding the kit's decals was probably the most challenging part of completing the kit. I'm not sure how much I like the "swoosh" graphics but I guess I can remove them if they start to bother me. They are more or less the opposite of what the original IH Scout graphics were, where the stripes came down off each side of the hood and then continued along the middle of the sides of the truck.

If I ever got the urge, I suppose I could pick up another clear Origin Classic body and try again. I think I'd also try to figure out something more Scout-like for that weird tailgate section that Vanquish gave the kit. I painted the grill white and almost did the same to the tailgate piece, but didn't. It just looks out of place to me. I painted the inside of the headlight buckets white and it looks a bit weird. I don't know what I was thinking. I may re-paint them in silver.

(That's a reflection on the driver's side of the windshield, not a making error.)

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

Dang!! That looks so good!!
The graphics package help tie it all together.

We're always much harder on our work than what others will be.

 

[desmobob]

Thank you, sir!

 

[xjtorc]

That turned out great. Never would have thought there was an issue with any part of that paint and decal job.

 

[BashingBrian]

Looks awesome.!!
Mine is in transit from Amain atm, but my build will be on hold for a while as I'm still accumulating parts for the build.

 

[Doom!]

I can't see any flaws, if you don't point them out I don't think most people will either. Looks great, espescially for you first lexan body.

 

[desmobob]

That turned out great. Never would have thought there was an issue with any part of that paint and decal job.

I can't see any flaws, if you don't point them out I don't think most people will either. Looks great, espescially for you first lexan body.

Thank you, gentlemen. I appreciate the comments from all you experienced guys.

 

[HPIguy]

The body looks great! If the tiny strip of red bugs you, it would be easy enough to mask off and use a white paint pen from the outside to fix it.

 

[desmobob]

Looks awesome.!!
Mine is in transit from Amain atm, but my build will be on hold for a while as I'm still accumulating parts for the build.

Worth the wait!

I went the budget route with the Hobbywing 2-in-1 QuicRun Pro 2300kv (motor and ESC for $130) and a cheap $39 set of wheels. I did splurge for authentic Vanquish Falken tires ($58). It adds up quickly...

 

[desmobob]

The body looks great! If the tiny strip of red bugs you, it would be easy enough to mask off and use a white paint pen from the outside to fix it.

Thanks!

 

[CreepyQuarryCrawler]

The body looks great! If the tiny strip of red bugs you, it would be easy enough to mask off and use a white paint pen from the outside to fix it.

Good call.
I have also used really thin automotive pin striping to have clean lines if I am not happy with the paint work. Helps with transitions like caps on body lines.

 

[desmobob]

I have also used really thin automotive pin striping to have a nice clean line. Helps with transitions like caps on body lines.

Good tip... thanks.

I had trouble with this body because, 1) It was my first time, and 2) there seemed to be molded ridges or curves in the body in the places I wanted to mask. I was surprised with how difficult it was to see these subtle body curves and to try to run masking tape along them with the body being clear.

I think one of the most helpful tips I gleaned from all the how-to videos I watched was to apply the first few coats as an extremely light dusting. These coats dried very quickly before the paint even had a chance to try to creep under the edges of the tape. After a few of these coats, the tape edges were sealed against any creepage from later coats.

I also used a hair dryer to quickly dry each coat. This was something that about half the how-to videos recommended and the others said not to do. I was a little hesitant to do it, but it turned out to work just fine and saved me a bunch of time, and also shortened the time that the paint coats were wet and could creep.