Used Maxx trouble

[Reddog]

Well I bought a t maxx 3.3 used. Lots of aluminum and other "upgrades". Looked really cool. That is where the awe ends..... First issue, keeps stripping spur gears, found rear bulkheads where not tight and only one bolt left holding it on. That was fixed. Still stripping spur gears. Rats what now, the tranny only had 2 screws left in it, both on same side. Fixed. Spur gear problems aside now to get it tuned up. Got it close, kinda. This thing is so heavy that I NEED the engine running well for it to be a fun truck. With the tune off it is like pushing a snowplow through mud. Just cannot get it to tune in. Pulled the engine, resealed it and rebuilt the carb. Still cannot get it to hold a tune. It is also burning through glow plugs like mad (2 per tank). Found the header is cracked, order new one. Now I am starting to wonder if I got a good deal or not here. Because I did not drain the tank this time but rather just looped the fuel line from the bottom to the top. But it is leaking, crap need a new tank. Patterns on the flywheel tell me the front has a leak as well. Also noticed tonight that the front bulkhead has pop rivets holding the chassis to the bulkheads.
Now I am thinking total rebuild, get rid of the aluminum suspension arms, go with RPM. Big block engine, replace any bulkheads with stripped holes, and make a good fun truck out of it. What do you all think? Shaun

 

[chickenman242]

first thing I would do is strip it down and inspect everything , get rid of the ali arms and go from there .a big block sounds great but they can be a real handful and expensive to setup. I got a 4908 maxx a while back and though I would big block it but after a quick tidy up ,ofna tank mod ,I set about modding the 3.3 . I gotthe dremel out ported it a wee bit replaced the bearings for insurance and added a losi 3.4 carb and I tell you its a beast, the only con is the tuning window closed up a bit but other than that it runs like a champ holds a tune all day every day and if it blows who cares , 3.3's are cheap.
if you plan on bashing hard ,rpm everthing ,aluminium is a bad idea on a bash truck.

 

[mrbones]

I think I've been there and done that. Bought a truck and end up spending almost enough that I could have bought a new one. Sounds like the engine is shot. A new piston and sleeve is about $50. (and you don't know yet the condition of the bearings and connecting rod). Aluminum arms are no good for bashing a truck because they will bend. RPM arms will be another $50-$60. You could probably use a new screw kit (about $15). New bulkheads are cheap, probably less than $10. The reason I know all this is because I have one on the table sitting 4 ft behind me that I was running yesterday and I've been through it. I bought the truck for about $100. The engine was shot. I got a real nice 3.3 the other day for $70. It needed fuel tank, clutch, battery, wheels, drive shafts, steering parts, brakes, throttle linkage, and now that I did all that, I don't really like the way it handles and I'm thinking about putting it on Ebay. If you're going to keep it, put all that aluminum stuff on Ebay and get some of your money back.

 

[Nitrotrout]

I'm sorry to hear about your problem child. Do you have some pics of your truck you can share? We can get a better idea of what model of truck you have and what upgrades are on it. I agree with the others, a complete teardown is in order so you can get a full assessment of what you're dealing with, plus it's good to know your truck inside and out.
With the amount of screws missing from your bulk heads and tranny, I guarantee your spur gears are getting eaten because the transmission is shifting around.

If your engine is burning up glow plugs you're too lean. Your lean issue could be caused by the leak in the fuel tank and cracked header. Address those issues first and then try to tune it. Chances are your old engine is shot and its not going to hold a tune well but it's good to handle all potential engine tuning issues now, before installing a new engine.

If you're going to replace bulk heads I would recommend something more substantial such as the ACNCM aluminum bulks. They're cheap on ebay and heavy duty. Do not buy Integy, they're junk.
The old rule of thumb is aluminum down the center (Bulk Heads, chassis braces), and plastic all around(control arms, hubs, bumper mounts)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/T-E-Maxx-3-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4170e780dc
If you're going to replace the fuel tank, consider doing the Ofna Violator fuel tank mod. Lower COG, 150cc capacity, reduces the 1/2 tank lean issue considerably, has a built in fuel filter, 360 degree swivel top for the pressure line, and it fits in place of the battery box requiring one hole drilled in the chassis.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFNA-Violat...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54061161ed
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ofna-Po...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43cb297cf3

Also look into a complete screw kit. Either Tony's screws, or factory screws from an ebay chop shop.
Avoid stainless steel screws, the metal is soft and screw heads strip easily.
http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.sc?productId=267&categoryId=61
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Screw-Kit-f...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415af93a95

 

[Reddog]

Being as it is my first 3.3 maxx I will do what I can to save it. My kids love it and my daughter named it "Foxy". The hobby shop gave me my first bit of good news, someone in the club wants all the alum' I take off for a shelf queen. That will about pay for the RPM replacements. I am on the edge with the engine, do I replace with a big block that I have sitting here or do I rebuild it? It will be a fun truck for most of its life with the occasional visit to the track. I already know that I do not like the aluminum skid plate in the front, bends way to easy. But for now I will tear it clear down figure out just what all I need and go from there. Thank You all for the help, Shaun

 

[Nitro4910]

If it's good aluminum, like UE's aluminum arms they are worth a good bit coin if they are in good shape.
To put a true BB on it you will need a BB chassis if yours is running a stock chassis or a mono block/extension for the rear for a stock chassis.
Picks would help.

 

[Reddog]

Most of the aluminum is integy. I found that the engine did not have a head gasket. I believe that it should have a copper washer gasket. I also found a ding in the piston. Was not sure what caused it at first until I had a thought and looked at it closer with a screwdriver in hand. It looks like the previous owner had stuck a screwdriver into the exhaust port to hod the piston and crank still while removing the flywheel nut.

 

[Rolex]

I believe that it should have a copper washer gasket.

That guarantees the compression seal. It kind of looks like this...

 

[chickenman242]

Good chance the piston and sleeve are damaged but you could give it a go worst case its toast and ya gotta get a new piston and sleeve or you may be able to get a new 3.3 without a carb for aound 80 bucks

 

[Reddog]

Update. I have stripped away all the aluminum and now have gone with RPM. the engine wil need either a complete rebuild or replaced. But I am working on it, slowly.

Here it is before.

Fast Lane aluminum parts.

 

[hotrodrob]

Looking good man...wanna trade anything for the flm towers?

 

[Reddog]

I need some 3.3 axles. And Thank You. My kids and I really like how it is coming out.

 

[hotrodrob]

What chassis are you using?

 

[Reddog]

I am not sure of the number but it is the 3.3 chassis that has the angles on the front part of the chassis. It is longer and wider than my 2.5.

 

[hotrodrob]

Let me see what I have that would be useful for ya bud,I may even have the axles you need

 

[Reddog]

Cool Thank You. Let me see if I can get some pics of the shock towers.

 

[hotrodrob]

No need for the pics buddy I know which ones they are,..with the buggy shocks I'm running I need towers with more adjustment,I don't have the cash for brand new ones so maybe we can both help each other is all

 

[Reddog]

Please note that one of the to corners was trimmed off to make room for the header pipe that was on the truck when I got it.

 

[Nitro4910]

Any thought to which BB your going with?

 

[hulkmaxx]

Nice looking rebuild so far. If you decide to replace that mill I would highly recommend the Ofna .28 maxx, or the Picco .21 maxx http://www.ebay.com/itm/Picco-P-Ser...071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51cb22ee5f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OFNA-52205-...374?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5afe8aab7e