flyingjackal456
RC Newbie
Ok, I'm new to the entire RC thing, but I have a gift at figuring out anything mechanical. Anyway...
I just got my Revo this past Christmas, and maybe ran 1000cc's of fuel through it. Due to the cold weather (and my crazy mixed snow/mud drifting) I ended up breaking a couple things Upper Control Arm, EZ start system, Transmission reverse Output gear, and 2 glow plugs. Back in early January, everything was fine after I did a full teardown and rebuild & replace. Only thing I needed to do was get the engine tuned (running horrible, and sputtering and stalling)
The temperture was 50 degrees and I had some free time, I decided to go out for some fun. I quickly tuned the high speed needle (too lean, needed 1/2 turn to richen) Now the thing is really nice, acceleration is strong and punchy, now I still need to do the low speed needle, I think it's running rich at idle. I did buy a FLUKE IR thermometer, not cheap but it works good. The engine was running about 230*F at the plug.
Now I take it in after playing in the dirt, skidding in gravel, and jumping things. I did get it to wheelie (raised the suspension and gunned it in the grass) I beat it up a tiny bit (a dent on the body, broken rear bumper, and broken upper passenger control arm) I installed the leftover driver lower control arm on the passenger side (works good enough until I get the real part). After I did my after-run cleanup and oil I now see I may have some differntial troubles. While I had the engine and tranny out of the car (The EZ start was slipping and needed some cleaning and lube), I noticed that both the front and rear differentials are leaking a tiny bit and they both grind a tiny bit once every 1/2 turn of the wheels.
A few questions: Are the diffs supposed to leak oil on the driveshafts and under the front undercarrage guard? Is slight grinding a sign I should open them up and check out the damages? What is a good temperture to keep the engine at? Are the fins of the cooling block hotter or cooler than the glow plug? How much more durable are the aluminum control arms?
I just got my Revo this past Christmas, and maybe ran 1000cc's of fuel through it. Due to the cold weather (and my crazy mixed snow/mud drifting) I ended up breaking a couple things Upper Control Arm, EZ start system, Transmission reverse Output gear, and 2 glow plugs. Back in early January, everything was fine after I did a full teardown and rebuild & replace. Only thing I needed to do was get the engine tuned (running horrible, and sputtering and stalling)
The temperture was 50 degrees and I had some free time, I decided to go out for some fun. I quickly tuned the high speed needle (too lean, needed 1/2 turn to richen) Now the thing is really nice, acceleration is strong and punchy, now I still need to do the low speed needle, I think it's running rich at idle. I did buy a FLUKE IR thermometer, not cheap but it works good. The engine was running about 230*F at the plug.
Now I take it in after playing in the dirt, skidding in gravel, and jumping things. I did get it to wheelie (raised the suspension and gunned it in the grass) I beat it up a tiny bit (a dent on the body, broken rear bumper, and broken upper passenger control arm) I installed the leftover driver lower control arm on the passenger side (works good enough until I get the real part). After I did my after-run cleanup and oil I now see I may have some differntial troubles. While I had the engine and tranny out of the car (The EZ start was slipping and needed some cleaning and lube), I noticed that both the front and rear differentials are leaking a tiny bit and they both grind a tiny bit once every 1/2 turn of the wheels.
A few questions: Are the diffs supposed to leak oil on the driveshafts and under the front undercarrage guard? Is slight grinding a sign I should open them up and check out the damages? What is a good temperture to keep the engine at? Are the fins of the cooling block hotter or cooler than the glow plug? How much more durable are the aluminum control arms?
