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UE diffs... 6 or 8?
- Thread starter Lessen
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- Location
- Aurora, Ohio (Cleveland)
- RC Driving Style
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- Thread starter
- #22
Plaidfish said:you guys are funny....yeah lessen was following the info.....but the final drive ratio is another calculation...I forget what just the diff ratio would be called.....meybe "diff ratio"????Hyped you need to drink less beer it seems to me...or more depending on how it hits ya....
oh. I always thought the final drive ratio was the common term for the differential ratio. Like in 1:1 you see stuff like 3.55, 3.92, 4.10 etc. So it just seemed like it was in that rhelm and it made sense.
well I'm sure the ratio you hear on cars is just the rear diff ratio as well....to get final drive you need the Primary and any, I think it's Planetary gear ratio as well as diff ratio....then you run all those through a calc and get what would be final drive ratio...I have it save in a calc spreadsheet at home...I'll try and find it tonite....but I beleive final ratios are in the range of like 10:1.....been a while since I needed to run that calc....I figured it out for my escort once so the turbo guys could use it for something......
Hey Guys,
I am reading this thread trying to soak up as much info as I can as I am looking to do some serious upgrading to my TMaxx drivetrain as well. Now when you say 7.5 diffs, what are they exactly, I mean I know they are diffs, but what does the 7.5 mean. Also I don't know if I am going to go the the fastlane bulkless right now. I was thinking of going MIP CVDS all around, and then RRP gears. Do I need to keep the existing diff cups if I don't go bulkless? I was trying to avoid going all aluminum. My Maxx is really just a "have fun" type of ride. I also club race it and didn't want to make everything aluminum because of weight. I have already got RPM A Arms, proline 23mm hexes, and Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles and Hingepins. I do want to strengthen the drivetrain so that my truck will last a bit longer, but want to stay as light as I can. I really like my Maxx too.
Thanks
Tom
I am reading this thread trying to soak up as much info as I can as I am looking to do some serious upgrading to my TMaxx drivetrain as well. Now when you say 7.5 diffs, what are they exactly, I mean I know they are diffs, but what does the 7.5 mean. Also I don't know if I am going to go the the fastlane bulkless right now. I was thinking of going MIP CVDS all around, and then RRP gears. Do I need to keep the existing diff cups if I don't go bulkless? I was trying to avoid going all aluminum. My Maxx is really just a "have fun" type of ride. I also club race it and didn't want to make everything aluminum because of weight. I have already got RPM A Arms, proline 23mm hexes, and Lunsford Ti Turnbuckles and Hingepins. I do want to strengthen the drivetrain so that my truck will last a bit longer, but want to stay as light as I can. I really like my Maxx too.
Thanks
Tom
tom the 7.5 I beleive refers to the fact that the Kyosho 7.5 series were the first to have that particular diff gear set....OFNA and I beleive GS also use the same gears so they are fairly universal...like the Mugen gears fit Xrays and I'm sure there are lots of other companies that just buy someone elses stuff and slap their name on it.....If you are going to go to 1/8 scale diffs then the fastlane set will save ya some dough in the long run....especially if you don't have aluminum bulkheads yet....you do want those aluminum.......and the diff cases too but those aren't nearly as needed as the bulkheads.....the fastlane or Atomic or whoever's you get are just simplifying the whole unit....2 parts instead of 6 (yes I included the bulkhead braces).......and you can use standard size buggy gears in them.....stronger and lower ratio so your axles are somewhat easier to turn making your mill work less but it will rev more........do the mip axles as well but if you do those now, then when you change the diffs you'll have to tear it all down again....
Hey Plaid,
Ok, so go with the aluminum bulkheads... makes sense. I thought you only wanted to go with aluminum bulks if you just bashed. I was worried about excess weight. The alumninum bulkheads are only two pieces? To they containg the diff cups or will I have to find those seperately, and if so, where to I find these at? I would like to see if I can find a pick on the web so I know what I am looking at. It sounds to me that you are right, that if I am going with the MIP setup, then I might as well do it all while I have the truck torn apart. It sounds to me to be easier that way. I know I have asked this question before, but how to you put 1/8 scale diffs in a 1/10 scale truck? I am still only running the 2.5. Have plans to run an OS .18 maxx drop in eventually but not right now. I think the money needs to be put into the drive train first, and then concentrate on the mill. I have read alot on this forum without posting the last couple of weeks but I still don't fully understand what I am about to do, and why... other than I want to make the truck tougher. Thanks guys.
Tom
Ok, so go with the aluminum bulkheads... makes sense. I thought you only wanted to go with aluminum bulks if you just bashed. I was worried about excess weight. The alumninum bulkheads are only two pieces? To they containg the diff cups or will I have to find those seperately, and if so, where to I find these at? I would like to see if I can find a pick on the web so I know what I am looking at. It sounds to me that you are right, that if I am going with the MIP setup, then I might as well do it all while I have the truck torn apart. It sounds to me to be easier that way. I know I have asked this question before, but how to you put 1/8 scale diffs in a 1/10 scale truck? I am still only running the 2.5. Have plans to run an OS .18 maxx drop in eventually but not right now. I think the money needs to be put into the drive train first, and then concentrate on the mill. I have read alot on this forum without posting the last couple of weeks but I still don't fully understand what I am about to do, and why... other than I want to make the truck tougher. Thanks guys.
Tom
these are what they look like...as you can see these will replace the diff housing (that ball looking case that's in between your bulkheads) and the bulkhead....no wthere is also a diff cup...that's inside the housing..it's what holds your spider gears, bevel gears & outdrive cups together......if you go to the 1/8 scale diffs you won't need to beef up the cup like a 10 scale set should be....you can use regular plastic 7.5 cups.....when you look at the cost of doing maxximizer or RRP and aluminum bulks / diff cups and the gear sets...this comes out way cheaper, is more durable & you are using stock parts from Kyosho or OFNA buggies.....IF you do ever blow one up the repair will be much less as well......do a flea-bay search for bulkless and you should find atomrc's version of these in th epic...he usually auctions th e10 scale version but I go ta set of 1/8 scales for 20 bucks more.....fastlane wants 180 for the set...I got mine for 125 shipped......then I found a guy in jacksonville had 2 sets of 7.5 diffs NIP for 45 shipped...outdrives were another 20.....so less than the UE diff gear set up I beefed up my whole front/rear end of my maxx and haven't blown a diff since.....I can't say this enough SHIM KIT SHIM KIT SHIM KIT.......you want them to spin as free as the y can but have the least amount of play.....
Plaidfish said:
these are what they look like...as you can see these will replace the diff housing (that ball looking case that's in between your bulkheads) and the bulkhead....no wthere is also a diff cup...that's inside the housing..it's what holds your spider gears, bevel gears & outdrive cups together......if you go to the 1/8 scale diffs you won't need to beef up the cup like a 10 scale set should be....you can use regular plastic 7.5 cups.....when you look at the cost of doing maxximizer or RRP and aluminum bulks / diff cups and the gear sets...this comes out way cheaper, is more durable & you are using stock parts from Kyosho or OFNA buggies.....IF you do ever blow one up the repair will be much less as well......do a flea-bay search for bulkless and you should find atomrc's version of these in th epic...he usually auctions th e10 scale version but I go ta set of 1/8 scales for 20 bucks more.....fastlane wants 180 for the set...I got mine for 125 shipped......then I found a guy in jacksonville had 2 sets of 7.5 diffs NIP for 45 shipped...outdrives were another 20.....so less than the UE diff gear set up I beefed up my whole front/rear end of my maxx and haven't blown a diff since.....I can't say this enough SHIM KIT SHIM KIT SHIM KIT.......you want them to spin as free as the y can but have the least amount of play.....
Ok Plaid, this is all starting to make sense here, but I have a couple more questions that have poped up here. First, would it be possible to get a list of what I would need to get (parts) for this project and who makes them so that I can start to shop around? Also what do you mean shim kit? I know what a shim is supposed to do, but we are talking about how to use them when putting in a window, not on RC's.
) I know it has to seem like I am asking dumb Arse questions, but I just want to make sure I am getting the right stuff, and know what I am getting myself into... thanks Plaid...I will get this sooner or later... LOLTom
when you have things like an outdrive post that runs through a bevel gear and then a cross pin holding the bevel gear onto the post.....the post might be able to pull out a little more than it should...especially when you are using different manufacturer's parts....you would add a thin shim between the bevel gear, behind the cross pin to take up that extra slop....also similar for the pinion gear going through the main drive cup.....whenever I rebuild a tranny or diff I get a new OFNA shim kit....I'll get part numbers for ya later and PM the list of what I used to do mine.....
pay it forward brotha...pay it forward
since more people were asking about the list I decided to post it here instead of sending PMs....
Here’s the bulkless set they’re the ones on the bottom
http://www.atomrcproducts.com/tmaxxproducts.html
Here’s CVDs…this is for 2…these are the best to get but you can find em cheaper…..also try and buy new….I’ve seen the RDlogics ones and like them as a close second to the MIP ones…..but the MIPs will give you the least amount of issues when dealing w/ mixed manufacturer’s parts…..you can usually pick up all 6 cvds from RDlogics on E-bay for around 65 bucks though….still strong as hell
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5985622799&rd=1
and the gear sets: these are hit or miss when you look for bargains….my friend bought 3 sets complete & new from a buggy for 35 bucks….I got 2 unassembled sets new for 40….go figure…but these are all the parts you’re looking to get for the upgrade…if you haven’t yet get an FOC kit as well…about 13 bucks from your LHS….it will let you engage into gear quicker cause you eliminate another centrifugal clutch that’s needed for the forward/reverse module…..good luck w/ your upgrades…if you guys have any questions just ask
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5985471806&rd=1
Here’s the bulkless set they’re the ones on the bottom
http://www.atomrcproducts.com/tmaxxproducts.html
Here’s CVDs…this is for 2…these are the best to get but you can find em cheaper…..also try and buy new….I’ve seen the RDlogics ones and like them as a close second to the MIP ones…..but the MIPs will give you the least amount of issues when dealing w/ mixed manufacturer’s parts…..you can usually pick up all 6 cvds from RDlogics on E-bay for around 65 bucks though….still strong as hell
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5985622799&rd=1
and the gear sets: these are hit or miss when you look for bargains….my friend bought 3 sets complete & new from a buggy for 35 bucks….I got 2 unassembled sets new for 40….go figure…but these are all the parts you’re looking to get for the upgrade…if you haven’t yet get an FOC kit as well…about 13 bucks from your LHS….it will let you engage into gear quicker cause you eliminate another centrifugal clutch that’s needed for the forward/reverse module…..good luck w/ your upgrades…if you guys have any questions just ask
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=49213&item=5985471806&rd=1