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tuning help

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ONMY6

RCTalk Basher
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  1. Bashing
This is probably a gone over topic but I'm a noob at this and have video to back up my issues.
any ways, what basically happens is it wil not idle or at (seems to be) top of first gear it will stall out.

Greatest part is that I went through water and snow a few too many times and screwed my electronics up did the power up plan and spent $80 on a new TQI

Also it seems to smoke/ drip fuel from the bottom of the engine. a bit???
And oh good smoke line the whole way

here is the video
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYE9Zz5PrW8"]traxxas revo help! - YouTube[/ame]
 
Well you can always make the LSN more rich and lean the HSN out even farther, then refer to my observation :)
 
Everyone on this site will vouch for Robins input being tried and true. Incase you didnt already know who he is he is the one that does the modding and makes the pipes at ERCM(extreme rc mods). Here is the link to his performance tuning guide.
http://www.extremercmods.com/content/tuning-popup.html

---------- Post added at 1:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:17 PM ----------

My best advice is to go back to your factory needle settings and start fresh. For a trx engine they are 4 out on HSN 2 1/2-3 out on LSN and a 1mm idle gap.

---------- Post added at 1:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:20 PM ----------

Also what piece are you talking about missing? The charger for your hump pack?
 
Read the thread and they are all pretty much telling you to do what robbin is. If i was you from me watching the video i would lean lsn bc it sounds like either the idle gap is set wrong or your lsn is to rich causing the crankcase to load up on fuel and die. When it is stalling at high speed thats bc your hsn is to lean and its starving for fuel when it reaches higher rpm making it die which is causing the motor premature ware. I would honestly just go to stock setting and go from there do what we are telling you to and if that doesn't fix the problem then come back and I'm sure it can be resolved

---------- Post added at 1:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:48 PM ----------

and btw if I'm not mistaken as i was reading the other tread u said u wernt sure which needle was which one by fuel entry is hsn and the lsn is on you carb slider
 
well the hsn was leaned out pretty far...
and I was not doubting you. It just didnt make sense since it seems to be starving for fuel up top, so then why would it stall up top get flooded?
 
I think you are confused. If your hsn is lean it is restricting fuel on the top end. Which bogs it. Not sure what you mean by flooding?!
 
If your HSN is too lean, then it will run lean in the top end. The LSN has no effect over the top end and only controls the fuel flow from idle to about 1/3 throttle. So because the two needles control fuel at different ends of the scale, it is quite possible for the top end to be too lean, and the bottom end to be too rich. Lean the LSN so it will idle on it's own and richen the HSN so it doesn't cut out at wot. Don't forget that you should only tune the engine after it is at normal operating temperature.
 
Do what robin says and your truck will be running great in no time. and also take some time and do some reading on tuning there is some really good tuning info on this site. it doesn't sound like you really know how the carb regulates the fuel mixture. Reading will give you this knowledge but experience will perfect your tuning. Tuning both hsn and lsn are easy to tune once you get the jist of things once you get your hsn tuned lsn is easy pretty much do a pinch test (google it) and you will be set.

---------- Post added at 12:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 PM ----------

i messed tht last part up once you get the hsn tuned and your working on lsn let the car sit in place for like 10 seconds and then punch it if it shoots off its prob tuned about right if it gargles and then kinda slowly takes off its to rich if its idling to high either idle gap is to wide or lsn is to lean once you have it about right then do the pinch test if it idles up and dies in 3 to 4 seconds its at a good tune
 
robin you actually switched the rich and lean the second post... but thank you all for explanations it is really helping. Heading to my LHS in a few
 
My second post was in regards to what would happen if you did what you thought was right, I ended it with telling you to do what I though was right, sorry for the confusion :)
 
Extreme RC Mods said:
My second post was in regards to what would happen if you did what you thought was right, I ended it with telling you to do what I though was right, sorry for the confusion :)
Click to expand...

no problem thank you for the explanation
but i brought it to my lhs and they said the seal on the engine might be broken there was a lot of fuel down there they said and showed me and said here clean it with this degreaser if it gets wet like that again replace the engine yourself and then come back but if it is ok bring it back and we will tune it. He said he felt bad taking it and fixing it to the tune of 150 for issues...
 
That "leak" is probably a result of your rich LSN, get it tuned up and I bet the "leak" goes away. Don't waste your money at the LHS for information you can get here for free, and chances are it will be much better info at that!
 
would make sense, flooding the engine therefor path of least resistance?
And sweet thats a big help I will spend the week end cleaning. I have to get the adapter for the one battery on the car.
And I had to stop in and just see they beat online prices so its a good deal to go to them for parts
But next week I am deff getting this thing tuned right

and jerzey I got no clue
 

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