tuneing issue? runs great for first few passes then gets slugish...

[down4thakrown]

over heating issue, tranny locks up, could this caus over heating, page 2 las thread

i got a tmaxx, with a brand new 2.5r and it was orginally a .15.......k when i set the carb to factory settings...4 turns out on high speed screw and low speed level with slide....k it runs great like this..for a few passes then it gets real sluggish and dogs off the line then slowly opens up....could this be do to over heating? I'm at 7000 ft elevation.....and the instructions say factory settins are set rich tho.....???????? could it be sumthing with tranny slipper clutch? I'm also runnin 30% nitro

 

[RC Addict]

Sounds like it is leaning out as it gets hot. What are your running temps? If you are tuning it when cold then it warms up your settings will be off. Always tune with a warmed up engine.

If that isn't your problem start looking for the good ol' air leak. Sometimes the fuel pickup in the tank will have a pin hole. You don't notice it till the fuel level drops below the hole and then it starts sucking air.

 

[down4thakrown]

Sounds like it is leaning out as it gets hot. What are your running temps? If you are tuning it when cold then it warms up your settings will be off. Always tune with a warmed up engine.

If that isn't your problem start looking for the good ol' air leak. Sometimes the fuel pickup in the tank will have a pin hole. You don't notice it till the fuel level drops below the hole and then it starts sucking air.

i dont even mess with the adjustments.....i just set it as 4 turns out, low speed level with slide and it runs awesum! but after a minute or two of a few passes it just starts getin hot....and...i know the carb aint lean cuz thers plenty of fuel cumin from pipe...could it be the boot that connects header to pipe zip ties aint tight enuf cuz i see alot of fuel coming from there...or maybe there is a hole in the tank...or seepin throught the seem of the tank.....cuz it does it with a full tank...or cap could maybe tightend i guess...but it feels tight........i can also see sum fuel comin from spot between carb and block....but if its close to me and i rev it i can feel fuel comin out of pipe tip too???I'm so confused..

i also got the resonator pipe on it too.....

 

[Rolex]

If it's sluggish off the line, you need to lean the LSN.

 

[down4thakrown]

when i first fire it up it runs great, idles great..with the settings at factory...then i only get through barely a 1/8 of a tank and it wont idle and gets hard to start....sluggish off the line...and wont stay runing........

when i broke the motor in it didnt run this good at the factory settings....should i take the carb apart and check out to see if thers dirt in there...could the lsn be a turn or 2 to far in to cause this?

just turnd the lsn a half turn out and it ran good for bout the same amount of time.....i used the clutch that came from my .15 could it be that? maybe worn out and when it gets warm and sticks or somting? like the lsn is stickin out the slide about a thread or 2 now...and still runs great at first the like if i go and try to do a sharp turn while on the gas it bogs down and thats when it turns into a dog....

 

[down4thakrown]

i just read another thread on here and sumbody said sumthing bout lsn bein 1 1/2 turns out....and that puts it at the inner slide body...i was thinkin it had to be level with the out plastic arm body....so mine was about 4-5 turns out maybe more...and was runin sweet! I'm thinkin maybe i got a clogged jet or a major air leak..cuz i screwed the lsn out a 1 1/2 and that was way further in then what i had it....

 

[darnoced]

Where you are at 7000ft, the air is less dense. This means that the factory settings(which are rich for break in), will not be anywhere close to what you want. The LS should be set at 1 1/2 - 1 3/4 out from closed initially, and the HS at 4. Remember that when you mess with the HS needle you also messing with the LS adjustment as the HS controls how much fuel is available for the LS. I"m thinking that, if anything, you will have to run lean(less fuel for less air), and really watch the temperatures.
I'm no expert, but that is my .02 worth.

 

[down4thakrown]

ya i know what your sayin...it makes total sense..but i can turn the Ls out 4-5 turns and it will run awesum for a 1/8 of a tank then just turn into a dog...and not wana run at all....but i just took carb out and cleaned it...ill try it at 1 3/4 and see what it does...maybe it just runs that good cuz its cold......

 

[Rolex]

You can not tune an engine by counting turns on the needles. That only gives you the approximate starting setting.
You need to tune by ear, smoke, performance and temp after the break in.
As mentioned earlier, don't change any settings till the engine is warmed up.

 

[down4thakrown]

i just tried starting from factory settings...every thing by the book.....adjusting by 1/16 turns and i can't get this thing to respond right......it will open nice...when it opens up..but when it gets warm and i pin the throttle it jus bogs out then eventually opens up...no matter what i do...could this be cuz i have a resonator pipe from a 3.3 ? it also will die b4 i can even grab my screw driver...

 

[Rolex]

This is my last post in this thread.
You keep saying you have the same problem when it warms up, and WE keep saying that you DO NOT tune it till it is warmed up already.
You've been given GOOD advise. Pay attention to it.

EDIT:
Do not duplicate help questions in your intro thread. It has been removed.

 

[down4thakrown]

well I've been messin with it and no good results..still over heating..so i took it to local hobby shop and paid them to mess with it for a 30 mins....and they said the clutch bell had bad bearings....so i took it apart and found out i only had 1 bearing in it so the whole clutch bell gear would wobble 1/16" of a inch.....so i fixed that and its still over heats....no matter what the settings are....the guy at the shop said sumthing bout him hearing my tranny whining and it locked up on him once....its also jumping from back and fwd in gears...but it tranny seems fine to me, hasnt locked up on me, i mite hear a noise but hard to tell over engine.......anybody have any ideas?

so would a bad clutch cause it to over heat?

when i said jumping back and fwd in gears i meant he said its goin from 1st to 2nd back to 1st...i think....I'm not clear on what he meant....but I'm goin to take tranny apart and check it out...would sumthing in the tranny cause it to over heat......even if when the truck aint runing i can push it back and fwd and it rolls just fine? and the spur gear spins free too? remember i bought this truck used....it had a blown .15 in it...so i have no idea about its history...but by the looks of the truck the kid who ownd it b4 me...seems like he bought it used and drove it into the ground til it didnt run no more then sold it....:\

 

[RC Addict]

Sounds like you are in the same place you were two weeks ago. 1) You are tuning your rig cold and then it heats up and leans out. Let your mill heat up THEN try richening it up until it stays running. If it still will not stay running, or you can not get it to richen up at even five turns out, then 2) you have a massive air leak.

You need to get back to basics here. Fuel spitting out where it shouldn't is a sure sign of a fuel leak. A fuel leak equals MASSIVE air leak!

Do you have a temp gun? If not get one. Your temps after five minutes should be in the 250-260 range. Any more and you are way too lean and killing that mill (if it isn't already dead).

This isn't that hard, and from what I read you are paying someone at your "LHS" that doesn't know any more about RC's than you. I don't know what else to say--this is really RC 101...

 

[jnjritz]

i dont even mess with the adjustments.....i just set it as 4 turns out, low speed level with slide and it runs awesum! but after a minute or two of a few passes it just starts getin hot....and...i know the carb aint lean cuz thers plenty of fuel cumin from pipe...could it be the boot that connects header to pipe zip ties aint tight enuf cuz i see alot of fuel coming from there...or maybe there is a hole in the tank...or seepin throught the seem of the tank.....cuz it does it with a full tank...or cap could maybe tightend i guess...but it feels tight........i can also see sum fuel comin from spot between carb and block....but if its close to me and i rev it i can feel fuel comin out of pipe tip too???I'm so confused..

i also got the resonator pipe on it too.....

Ok i think i found the problem...^^^^^^^
You are running your self in circles do 1 thing at a time we can help but you need to relax and start from scratch. Get a couple of zip ties and fix those leaks. Before you do anything else fix the leaks. Now that you have done that. Ask yourself ...SELF,:\ How do i know the engine is getting to hot?
Do one thing at a time. You'll get it. After you ziptie everything up let us know and we can tell you what to look for next.

 

[down4thakrown]

k...well i put the factory pipe back on......couple guys at the local hobby shop said the pipe i had (resonator from a 3.3) was to big and not givin me enough back compression...so i put the factory plastic back on...tightend the zip ties...and put it at factory settings...and same results......i know its over heating because when it starts to act up i spit on the head and my spit started boiling/ sizzling rite away....but i did notice sum fuel coming from bung on carb were fuel line goes to carb and when i tightend it i got a good 1/2 turn out of it...and it looks to be if fuel is coming from inbetween carb and block...and i can see a little bit of the o' ring inbetween them...is the carb suppose to be sitting flat on the block so i wouldnt be able to see the orange o' ring at all?.....i check the tank...by taking off the fuel line coming from pipe and pinchen the one that goes to carb and blowing in it...and it seems to hold pressure pretty well...but i ordered a new tank because one of the hinge loops for lid broke...the lide still closes all the way just when u pop it, it comes off the hinge...please help..I'm geting so frustrated...

i also live in northern az....where our altitude is 7000 ft above sea level....thats another thing thats makes me think its not tuning....cuz instructions say factory settings are rich for the break in.....and theres a foot note that says anywhere over 5000 ft elevation lean by 1/16 or 1/8 of turn...but i dont even do that i just adjust to factory settings recomended for at sea level.....and it stillover heats..

could it be just my driving style where I'm doin quick short passes? like off and back on throttle hard, back forward very quickly?:\

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Seal your carb up, man. Shouldn't be any fuel leaking anywhere. That engines probably smoked by now. Get a temp gun. You need to take the advice you have been given. Or just get an electric vehicle.

 

[jerry7007]

huh, weird with the pipe thing, i live in denver Co (mile high) and i was using that resonator pipe and it kept lean bogging on me, but when i put the factory pipe back on, it quit.

 

[down4thakrown]

huh, weird with the pipe thing, i live in denver Co (mile high) and i was using that resonator pipe and it kept lean bogging on me, but when i put the factory pipe back on, it quit.

ya i definetly noticed a power change in the pipes had the resonator on there and it ran great with factorysettings...but it over heated after a 1/8th of a tank....put the stock pipe on it....turned it into a dog off the line and wasn't as responsive....and still over heated after 1/8th of a tank....and i live in flagstaff at 7000 ft above sea level

i really wana know whats causing this...I'm about 500 bux into this truck and can't even enjoy it....i think it has sumthing more to do then just tuning....if the factory settings are rich and it says anywhere over 5000 ft lean it out 1/16 - 1/8 of a turns...I'm goin to see if i can get the carb further into the block and if the o rings on carb look good...i can see like half the top o ring on carb...maybe i didnt push it all the way in....and I'm goin to check exhaust header for cracks or if a o ring is bad there....i got a new gas tank on the way....my cap hinge is broke...it still holds pressure...i ccan fill it completly fulll and let it sit for a coupld days and didnt see any leakage...blew in hose that goes to pipe and it held my breath so I'm sure its not the tank....and I'm goin to buy the fwd only and 1 speed conversion kit for tranny to see if its any one of those......

 

[down4thakrown]

could it be cuz I'm runing 30% nitro instead of 20%? i just read sumwhere that 2.5r should only run 10-20% nitro??????????

 

[down4thakrown]

well was messing with it more....fixed header leak....fixed carb leak...fixd bung leak....motor didnt over heat as fast...but still did after 1/4 tank almost...but the tranny did lock up on me tho...the spur gears would spin but tires didnt...what would cause this? it was in foward gear...would that be the fwd gear and gear that drives it or would it be the 2 shifting gears which started acting up and would down shift while accelarting........ would these tranny problems cause it to over heat....can't make low speed any richer with out it turning into a dog...