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TRX 2.5R Engine Temps @ 316

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RevoME

RevoME

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Hiya!
:flamer:
After I decided to go by Traxxas advise:
"Sir, our engines run hotter, and if you see a stream of smoke from the exhaust, everything should be fine."

Well, I do see plenty of smoke!

I see an Engine that has:
A sealed Fueltank, checked Fuellines, Carb was out, cleaned, Air Intake was checked & ziptied to the carb, Backplate was out, cleaned and reinstalled, head was off, cleaned and reinstalled, new plug, different fuel... and still this mill will not take any of my "tuning". Idles high, won't take a tune, will run fine for a few, before I shut it down to let it cool, and then it's all outta whack again...

I'm at the end of my wisdom, I'll either find someoe that can check the whole thing ova, or I'll continue watching it send little puffs of smoke, right from the head until it explodes.... This thing is seriously outta wack, and I need some help.
Hobbyshop charges $25/ hour to check and likely a little fortune to replace everything it will and won't need... bunch of dingdongs IMO... any Engine+ Carb Overhaulers around here? Or should I send the mill with carb to traxxas and have them check it out?
:surrender
 
Last edited:
Did you rtv seal the backplate and carb? To me it sounds like an air leak.

If I remember correctly you can spray some wd40 (with the mill running) around the backplate and/or carb. If there is an air leak the engine will die, if no air leak it will not die.

We'll figure this out!

Where in Maine are you located?
 
vbgagnon said:
Did you rtv seal the backplate and carb? To me it sounds like an air leak.

If I remember correctly you can spray some wd40 (with the mill running) around the backplate and/or carb. If there is an air leak the engine will die, if no air leak it will not die.

We'll figure this out!

Where in Maine are you located?
Click to expand...

I agree to the airleak... I'm just not good enough for this engine yet as you can see in my Gold Member minisig...LOL.
Used Truck! I'll try the WD40 thing...

Yarmouth, but I get around the state a lot and will bring my winterbeater to Old Town Maine this week or next for TAXES!
 
Try the wd 40 thing. Use the tube that comes with the can get it running and spray around the backplate then around the carb. Let me know what happens.
 
vbgagnon said:
Try the wd 40 thing. Use the tube that comes with the can get it running and spray around the backplate then around the carb. Let me know what happens.
Click to expand...

I'll do that in the morning.
Thanks man!
I had PM'd you a few days ago, wanted to see how far you are away...

:bowtothercnt:
 
Thats funny I never got it. I'm about as far north as your going to get in maine. About 4 hours drive from bangor.
 
vbgagnon said:
Thats funny I never got it. I'm about as far north as your going to get in maine. About 4 hours drive from bangor.
Click to expand...

If my buddy borrows me his 150 I'll be up there in 3.5 hours.
I'm 2.3 driving hours south of bangor... prolly like 6.5 hours to get to you by car.
Airplane: leave at 6 in the morning, be there by 10, look at truck, repair whats broke, drive a bit, lunch & sightseeing flight around your hometown, (pick up one of the teethless wondergirls and make her believe we are airline captains on the way through) fuel & fly home (trying hard NOT to forget anything there LOL)
Still a lot of flying for Mr. Beater Revo
Outta Airplanes... LOL
 
Hey RevoMe..... This may be a long shot and it is very tough to try unless you have one.... but I have a 2.5R on my TMaxx and I had a hell of a time tuning this thing until I replaced the cooling head. It seems the head on this thing is just way to small to effectively cool the mill. The one I am using comes from ACNCM. Which stands for American CNC Machining... I believe. There are other manufacturers as well. Anywho I know it is not something you can't try now, but it may be something to think about. They are not too expensive and may help your tunning woes.

Tom
 
I think VB hit it on the head with the air leak! Sealing the 2.5 has always made a very noticeable difference even if it was running good before...easier to tune and lower temps! I also never had trouble with the stock cooling head, I still run it on my sons 2.5 and temps stay between 240 and 250.
 
the biggest thing I noticed with the 2.5's is the air filter gets dirty very quickly and when it does you will notice it will run alot hotter . the other thing I see people doing is running a dirty filter and trying to get top performance out of it. first I would recomend a good 1/8th scale type air filter and retune the engine for that filter you will need to go richer as it gives the motor a ton more air. I have never sealed my 2.5r and its over 2 years old now and the temps stay around 200 and goes like a rapped ape. a little tip on cleaning the air filter i take some paint thinner and dilute it say 60/40 with water and wash and rinse with water and dish soap and they turn just as white as when they are new and it gets all the dirt out. makes a huge difference when they are cleaned properly
 

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