Trouble starting

[robertg1104]

I bought a T Maxx 2.5 used off ebay. After putting batteries in and charging battery pack I tried to start it. It turned over but did not sound like it was close to firing up. I looked up the factory carb settings and adjusted it to them. It sounds like its about to start but wont. I did prime the engine by blowing in the line that connects to the exhaust. I replaced the glow plug (before I did anything) and tested it by holding it against the block and it works. I'm not sure if this is normal but after trying to start it i was moving the truck around and some fuel came out of the exhaust. I thought it might be flooded so I removed the glow plug and turned it upside down, I read to do this somewhere on the internet. I then checked the glow plug again, it is still working. put glow plug back in and tried to start it..... NOPE!!!! Anybody have any ideas on what to try next??? I dont know if it matters but.... The truck came from Maine and I'm in Arizona, thats why I put the carb back to factory settings thinking change in temp/altitude could be an issue and i could fine tune it after I got it running...Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Metalhead Matt]

First thing to do on a used rig is to seal the engine. Especially a Traxxas engine. Then get a separate ignitor and ditch the blue wire. The later statement is your immediate problem. It's either tuned too rich at factory settings or the wand isn't supplying enough current to the plug to fire the engine. It's a common problem. I almost guarantee the reason the person sold this Maxx is because it wouldn't run right. That's probably because the engine has a leak. Read the tuning tips and tricks at the top of the nitro forum. It explains sealing in detail.

 

[Racer 1966]

Use the trim on your transmitter to open up the carb a little. You may need to lean it some too,factory is too rich in most instances.

 

[robertg1104]

Thanks for the replies. I am heading to the hobby shop to buy a glow plug igniter. What should I do with the blue wire? It can't just set in there can it? Also if I lean it, should I turn the high needle clockwise? How much should I turn it? Thanks, Robert

 

[SteelCityNitro]

You can just cut the blue wire off, but I dont think it will harm anything

 

[robertg1104]

Well the lhs is sold out of glow igniters until Wednesday so I am back to trying to start it with the ez start. Now the engine will turn over a couple times and stop. When it stops the green engine light goes out. I hit the start button again and nothing. I manually turn the engine over, reconnect the ez start wand and it does the same thing (turns over a couple times and stops). Any ideas???? Thanks, Robert

 

[SteelCityNitro]

Well the lhs is sold out of glow igniters until Wednesday so I am back to trying to start it with the ez start. Now the engine will turn over a couple times and stop. When it stops the green engine light goes out. I hit the start button again and nothing. I manually turn the engine over, reconnect the ez start wand and it does the same thing (turns over a couple times and stops). Any ideas???? Thanks, Robert

Either the battery is dead, the engine is flooded, or the ezstart wand is too hot.. it has a shutoff for when it's overheated.

 

[robertg1104]

Ok, pulled the glow plug and turned it upside down to see if it was flooded and put battery pack on charger. Found a different lhs who had igniters in stock and bought one (its on the charger now). I was talking to the guy at the lhs and he told me to put the high needle at 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns out. I adjusted it and what do you know, it fired right up!!!! Set it on the ground,gave it a little gas and it shuts down. Start it again, it idles fine, give it gas and it shuts down. Any more ideas guys??? I would also like to say thanks to everyone who has replied with ideas, i appreciate it!!

 

[SteelCityNitro]

Ok, pulled the glow plug and turned it upside down to see if it was flooded and put battery pack on charger. Found a different lhs who had igniters in stock and bought one (its on the charger now). I was talking to the guy at the lhs and he told me to put the high needle at 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns out. I adjusted it and what do you know, it fired right up!!!! Set it on the ground,gave it a little gas and it shuts down. Start it again, it idles fine, give it gas and it shuts down. Any more ideas guys??? I would also like to say thanks to everyone who has replied with ideas, i appreciate it!!

take the hsn back in by 1/8 turn and repeat a few times to see if it gets better

 

[Racer 1966]

Read THIS

 

[robertg1104]

Racer, thanks for the link....Very informative! Well on monday my ol' lady surprised me by taking my truck to the lhs while I was at work. they called back today and told her (left a message) that the one way bearing was in backwards and the idiot I bought it from switched the wires on the ez start to compensate for the bearing being in backwards!?!?! So I will pick it up tomorrow and attempt to fix it. Questions I have..... How hard is it to flip the bearing the right way and should I lube it. I have read some on it and it seems some people say leave it dry and others say to use a light oil. I have looked for videos on you tube and there is not a lot on changing a one way bearing unless you want to trust a 12 year old who says he doesn't have the right tools for the job and soaks it in nitro. This may be right???? He obviously has more knowledge than I do or I would not be on here asking questions. I would appreciate any info on this fix. On a side note.....I guess everyone knows not to trust what people say on ebay. Make sure you get a good enough deal so you have money left over to fix it/make it work. Thanks, Robert

 

[Metalhead Matt]

You'll have to take the engine off, which isn't a big deal at all. Take the 4 screws out that hold the ez start on, pop the ez start assembly off, flip the bearing over and put it back together. Use a little blue, removable locktite on the screws(all metal to metal connections). I never lubed the owb. Plenty of oil seems to find it's way to them. Blast it out with carb and choke cleaner or denatured alcohol and compressed air. Use a piece of note book paper to set the gear mesh when you put the engine back on the truck. Since your pulling the engine, I'd seal it while your at it. If you don't do it now, you'll be doing it later.

 

[robertg1104]

Can I mark the frame some how (pencil,marker) so I get the engine back in the same place or do you have to "mesh the gears" every time you remove the engine? I have read some on meshing the gears but have obviously never done it, how hard is it to mesh them? I am a rookie and trying to learn so any help will help. Another problem I noticed and am not sure how to fix is when I give it full throttle the "plunger" thing sometimes hangs up on the electric starter motor and doesn't return back. I have to push it with my finger. how can I fix this while I have the engine out? I can't tell you guys how much I appreciate your help. I have been wanting to get into the hobby for A LONG TIME, Never could because of $ and knowledge. I finally said f@#k it and bought something. It seems the lhs's dont want to give anybody the time of day unless you are a regular. People on here seem to WANT to help people with there problems!!!!!!! Hopefully some day I can return the favor and help someone with there RC....Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Metalhead Matt]

You have to set the mesh by sight and feel. The object is to get the gears as tight as possible, but with NO binding. They must spin as smoothly as possible. Sounds like you need to adjust your linkage, but don't worry about that until the engine is fixed and back on the rig. Engine placement directly affects linkage adjustment. Whatever you do, don't run it until your sure the linkage is set right. It will pop over and you will have a runaway Maxx on your hands. You'll most likely have to move the servo horn back(take screw out, pop it off of the servo and move it counter clockwise a few hours) and lengthen the short linkage that goes to the carb so that it will still open all of the way. The ball end should have plenty of adjustment. The last owner probably just has it out of whack. We'll cross that bridge together when you get to that point.

 

[w bill]

My thought to the purchase of used equipment is tear it completly down and totaly reassemble it like a kit that way you know every thing is right.Plus it was sold for a reason and not what they told you.BUYER BEWARE!!!!!:

 

[robertg1104]

I flipped the one way bearing and switched the wires on the ez start. Fired right up, the only problem is when I give it gas it goes in reverse (the switch is on forward, I double checked that). When its idling, if I pick it up the wheels slowly turn in reverse. Could the guy have switched a servo backwards like he did the o.w.b. and the ez start motor?

 

[robertg1104]

Just to double check, The forward/reverse switch should be down for forward and up for reverse?

Never mind..... The servo doesn't change every time i flip the switch. And if I get more than 3 feet from the truck truck it takes off. It has fresh batteries in it but I'm gonna change them anyways and see if that fixes my radio problem.