Track action from Saturday and next plans for the buggy

[DavidB1126]

Went to the local carpet track for some laps and just working on lap times. They added a huge and amazing drivers stand and added the timing system to the carpet track. Next time I'm down I will get my name and class into the system. First thing was the pinion. The pinion backed out but was still in the car so I got that all patched up. I am still running the 20 tooth pinion and the motor is still having some heat problems. I tried to fit a 16 in but it wouldn't fit due to the motor mounts sliding back. So the lowest pinion I could use in the buggy is probably a 20 or 19. Next was battery heat. Battery was getting warm and puffy after each run. Today I took a look at them and they are not puffy anymore and IRs are still great/ok. Should have a few more runs on them before I should get new batteries. Next was the front shock. I didn't break the shock, what happened was the screw for the piston backed out, piston came off and the shaft came out. I didn't bring any oils and I didn't want to dig into a shock there at the track so I took one off the slash and put it on the buggy. Didn't fit well but it worked. If it works, it works. I did let my dad drive the buggy aswell, he isn't a great or fast driver like I am. But I think he liked how it drove and the set up and all. Looks like they are still expanding the carpet track and making layout changes with expanding the track. They should be having some mini b/t racing and hopefully some 1/10 racing soon in the next couple of weeks. I did bring the slash but the slash had wayy to much traction and parachuted over the jumps. And racing the slash isn't probably the best idea so I will only be racing the buggy and the mini b if it is running. I had an average of about a 13 second lap after I got used to the car and track layout for the day.

Tonight:
I analyzed the batteries and they look fine now. Next time at the track I will let the battery cool down first before recharging or store charging. Currently I am charging at 10 amps. I might charge at 1C (6.1) just to see how they are. IRs are still great/ok. Should be able to get a few more runs with them. Once they get bad I will discharge them and not take the risk of a fire or pop.

Also tonight and tomorrow after school I will be rebuilding the shocks. I am currently applying the carpet set up (from the B74.1 high traction carpet and turf kit) I am putting 50wt oil out front and 35wt in the rear for the shocks (all Associated/Factory Team oil) I am going to get 15k oil for the front and rear diffs. I think I will stay with 200k in the center diff and move up to 500k if needed. I also changed the shock positions on the suspension arm and camber link positions on the shock tower. I will also be getting a variety of different springs just to experiment. I will also be getting a RPM camber gauge and a toe gauge if they make one, and a ride height gauge. My uncle has a temp gun so I will see if I can use that for the motor and batteries.

For the motor heat problem: Would it be best to gear down to the 72 tooth spur? Currently running the dirt kit set up 78 tooth spur.

So far all if looking good. Will be at the track again in the next few weekends since there is a some car shows going on around the area. Also the MD auto show.

Here are the lap times for Saturday and IRs of the batteries.

 

[Bogda89]

Heat wise, if your motor runs hot, you can reduce timing a little. That will provide slightly less top speed but more acceleration, brake and efficiency. Also don't run whole battery pack without stopping. Races usually last 5 or 6 minutes, so it's critical for motor to stay cool within that time but not 20 minutes of non stop driving.

For battery puffing the same, don't discharge completely. Run up to 10 minutes, not until car stops.

 

[Mtbmatty]

I’ve heard of that tiny screw loosening up, you may want to apply a tiny bit of thread lock and check them when you service the shocks.
Also if you are doing long runs service intervals on the shocks and diff(s) will be more frequent.

 

[DavidB1126]

I’ve heard of that tiny screw loosening up, you may want to apply a tiny bit of thread lock and check them when you service the shocks.
Also if you are doing long runs service intervals on the shocks and diff(s) will be more frequent.

Yea. When I built the kit I used the threadlock glue stick. The glue stick really doesn't work that well so I am going to pick up the blue liquid threadlock.

 

[Bogda89]

Yea. When I built the kit I used the threadlock glue stick. The glue stick really doesn't work that well so I am going to pick up the blue liquid threadlock.

What timing are you running on the can?

 

[DavidB1126]

What timing are you running on the can?

I am running stock ESC settings, motor timing, and turbo settings. Ill check when I get home today.

 

[Bogda89]

I am running stock ESC settings, motor timing, and turbo settings. Ill check when I get home today.

You can reduce timing by 5 degrees. I would mark current timing on the can, so if you don't like changes you can return it to previous settings. Excessive timing will give you a little bit of top end but less torque, especially down low, and lower efficiency, and weaker brakes. That track is small and technical so you don't really need a lot of speed.

Every motor is different, some like more some less timing. And also markings on the can are not always accurate but in general, 45 degrees is a good agressive timing, some motors like up to 50 on fast tracks, 40 degrees is good conservative timing that should give you best efficiency and good speed

 

[TRAT]

Stick lock tight is no good unless working on huge rigs like mine equipment. I have used quit a few but I always prefer liquid. All my rc I use blue liquid

 

[806mastadon]

Went to the local carpet track for some laps and just working on lap times. They added a huge and amazing drivers stand and added the timing system to the carpet track. Next time I'm down I will get my name and class into the system. First thing was the pinion. The pinion backed out but was still in the car so I got that all patched up. I am still running the 20 tooth pinion and the motor is still having some heat problems. I tried to fit a 16 in but it wouldn't fit due to the motor mounts sliding back. So the lowest pinion I could use in the buggy is probably a 20 or 19. Next was battery heat. Battery was getting warm and puffy after each run. Today I took a look at them and they are not puffy anymore and IRs are still great/ok. Should have a few more runs on them before I should get new batteries. Next was the front shock. I didn't break the shock, what happened was the screw for the piston backed out, piston came off and the shaft came out. I didn't bring any oils and I didn't want to dig into a shock there at the track so I took one off the slash and put it on the buggy. Didn't fit well but it worked. If it works, it works. I did let my dad drive the buggy aswell, he isn't a great or fast driver like I am. But I think he liked how it drove and the set up and all. Looks like they are still expanding the carpet track and making layout changes with expanding the track. They should be having some mini b/t racing and hopefully some 1/10 racing soon in the next couple of weeks. I did bring the slash but the slash had wayy to much traction and parachuted over the jumps. And racing the slash isn't probably the best idea so I will only be racing the buggy and the mini b if it is running. I had an average of about a 13 second lap after I got used to the car and track layout for the day.

Tonight:
I analyzed the batteries and they look fine now. Next time at the track I will let the battery cool down first before recharging or store charging. Currently I am charging at 10 amps. I might charge at 1C (6.1) just to see how they are. IRs are still great/ok. Should be able to get a few more runs with them. Once they get bad I will discharge them and not take the risk of a fire or pop.

Also tonight and tomorrow after school I will be rebuilding the shocks. I am currently applying the carpet set up (from the B74.1 high traction carpet and turf kit) I am putting 50wt oil out front and 35wt in the rear for the shocks (all Associated/Factory Team oil) I am going to get 15k oil for the front and rear diffs. I think I will stay with 200k in the center diff and move up to 500k if needed. I also changed the shock positions on the suspension arm and camber link positions on the shock tower. I will also be getting a variety of different springs just to experiment. I will also be getting a RPM camber gauge and a toe gauge if they make one, and a ride height gauge. My uncle has a temp gun so I will see if I can use that for the motor and batteries.

For the motor heat problem: Would it be best to gear down to the 72 tooth spur? Currently running the dirt kit set up 78 tooth spur.

So far all if looking good. Will be at the track again in the next few weekends since there is a some car shows going on around the area. Also the MD auto show.

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Here are the lap times for Saturday and IRs of the batteries.

That’s cool af. So you turn left more often ????

 

[DavidB1126]

That’s cool af. So you turn left more often ????

I wouldn't say I turn left more often. It really depends on the layout. Sometimes the layout can change often, sometimes it will stay the same for a month. Depends if the racers get tired and want a new layout.