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Tonight I started! Long post.
- Thread starter TWOCANE
- Start date
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Now I'm really looking forward to my break in. Check out my Savage pics thread. My last part finally arrived today.
Springtime in Tennessee. It's coming soon.
Springtime in Tennessee. It's coming soon.
evilhonda
RCTalk Rookie
problem solved...
you could always buy mine... but you already knew that..
you could always buy mine... but you already knew that..
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I'm really looking forward to it now. It's almost drive time.
i have been dieing to get out and run my rig, I got the itch soo bad I just burned a tank off right in front of my house in the street. It was the first time I have run it with Proline PowerStroke Shocks and Traxxas out Cvd's. It was great. This weekend is going to be fun. Although I did discover the nut that holds brake disc in place is shot and I didnt have any brakes. Luckily I found this out before the bash session. Your truck reminds me a lot of mine. I have a full center skid but still have plastic f/r skids. I also went with some LHS special powder coated chassis braces. You have a few different mods than I but I am sure we are just attacking different areas first. I want Tranny, Diffs, then Big block and a few minor odds and ends to finish her up.
You have a nice truck!!
You have a nice truck!!
!
TWOCANE
RCTalk Addict
- Thread starter
- #70
I got my one way and a new pull start and got the beast running last sunday and I tore up a rear duff. I have a new one with metel gears so it shouldnt break. I will do my diff and put on my center aluminum skid on at the same time, I will post new pics when its done.
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Since you asked in a PM, I'm putting the info here, where others can benefit from it.
An air leak is a nightmare in any engine, and usually the last thing someone thinks of when it gets stubborn.
Take off the backplate, and apply a thin layer of red gasket silicone where it mates with the block. (any auto store has it) Instead of tightening it all the way, just snug it down by spinning the hexes with your fingers. Make sure it's seated flat, and the RTV is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper. 24 hours later, tighten the screws.
What this does is create an actual layer of gasket material, rather than squishing it all out by tightening it down right away.
For sealing the carb, check out the sticky on top of the General Nitro Talk forum. That one you need to push down hard on while tightening the clamp, but you can do it right away.
An air leak is a nightmare in any engine, and usually the last thing someone thinks of when it gets stubborn.
Take off the backplate, and apply a thin layer of red gasket silicone where it mates with the block. (any auto store has it) Instead of tightening it all the way, just snug it down by spinning the hexes with your fingers. Make sure it's seated flat, and the RTV is about the thickness of a couple of sheets of paper. 24 hours later, tighten the screws.
What this does is create an actual layer of gasket material, rather than squishing it all out by tightening it down right away.
For sealing the carb, check out the sticky on top of the General Nitro Talk forum. That one you need to push down hard on while tightening the clamp, but you can do it right away.
CharliesTheMan
Gone - bye bye.
Rolex, did you seal the 4.6 on your truck? I'm wondering if I should do this with my brand new K4.6 nitrostar engine (I know I know, electric motors, combustible engines. I had to write it on the board 500 times for professor Rolex last week) Should I go ahead and seal the backplate or wait and see how she runs first? Thanks for that bit of info on how to PROPERLY seal the engine. I've heard a lot of people tell other people to seal the backplate with gasket sealer, and I always wondered about it squishing out when you torque down the bolts into the block, so this helped to clear things up a lot.
Rolex, you are always so good at breaking things down for us noobs and those of us with special IQ's, like your avatar. Thanks again!!
Rolex, you are always so good at breaking things down for us noobs and those of us with special IQ's, like your avatar. Thanks again!!
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I haven't sealed mine yet, and if everything runs right during the break-in, I'll do it at the same time that I put in the reverse module and the 3 speed trans.
Since yours isn't installed yet, do it now. It's just that it takes more time to remove and reinstall and re-align than it does to seal it.
Once it's been properly sealed, you can be pretty confident that everything will run well for a good long time.
Since yours isn't installed yet, do it now. It's just that it takes more time to remove and reinstall and re-align than it does to seal it.
Once it's been properly sealed, you can be pretty confident that everything will run well for a good long time.
TWOCANE
RCTalk Addict
- Thread starter
- #74
I got my replacement diff for my maxx, Now what is the easyest way to change the rear diff? I no I took it apart and put it together with the help of my Bub evilhonda. but whats the shortest way? And if she runs like she did when she blew the stock diff, I am going to shorten the fuel/pressure lines and be as happy as I can before I have to get pissed again. And the new diff has metal gears already lubed and double bearings. when my front goes zzzzzzzzi will make sure to get another from the same place. For 25 bucks I can afford to tear up anotheer, its only another upgrade.
To change the rear diff...
remove grub screw holding rear driveshaft to the rear diff
unbolt lower rear shocks from the a arms, leave the shocks bolted to the towers.
unbolt the tower from the bulkhead
remove the a arms
Remove both rear axles from diff, they are held on by grub screws which are very close to the diff
remove 4 skid plate screws going into the bulkheads
remove your exhaust header
unbolt the engine from the mount, this way you do not have to reset your mesh
remove 4 screws holding bulkheads to the chassis
now you can remove the bulks and diff
I have only done this 5 times or so but I think that is the final order I use. I have a t-maxx with the 3.3 and ez start so your procedure may be different.
remove grub screw holding rear driveshaft to the rear diff
unbolt lower rear shocks from the a arms, leave the shocks bolted to the towers.
unbolt the tower from the bulkhead
remove the a arms
Remove both rear axles from diff, they are held on by grub screws which are very close to the diff
remove 4 skid plate screws going into the bulkheads
remove your exhaust header
unbolt the engine from the mount, this way you do not have to reset your mesh
remove 4 screws holding bulkheads to the chassis
now you can remove the bulks and diff
I have only done this 5 times or so but I think that is the final order I use. I have a t-maxx with the 3.3 and ez start so your procedure may be different.
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Most of that is correct except I never pulled the engine. The second time around it went a LOT faster.
I don't have it any more, so I can't look at it for reference, but you only have to disconnect, mostly, from one side. When you get closer, you'll see that you don't have to do a major teardown, but can spread the frame rails to remove and replace it.
I don't have it any more, so I can't look at it for reference, but you only have to disconnect, mostly, from one side. When you get closer, you'll see that you don't have to do a major teardown, but can spread the frame rails to remove and replace it.
- Messages
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- Location
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Seriously? Things must have changed since I had mine. Mine was originally the .15 converted to the 2.5.