racendad6
RCTalk Racer
how is the stock exhaust on the new tmaxx 3.3 compared to the after market ones? and what are some really good pipes to run thanks
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tmaxx pipe
- Thread starter racendad6
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nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
I do! 
I wondered the same thing, and eventually i got a dynamite pipe, it did way better for performance, and it really wasn't much louder than the stock, this is a plain one pipe exhaust, i have heard from some who have bought the duel pipes that they do not work the best but do sound good, my pipe does great, a lot better than stock, your question, my answer to it is circumstantial, depends on what pipe you get for what engine, i found it to make a big difference as well as upgrading from the stock air filter to the 3-stage, the combo of the 3-stage filter and dynamite pipe gave it more of a kick most definitely!
Get yourself a nice pretty blue dynamite exhaust, go ahead, you wont do it, i dare you, I'm sure you wont regret it i can't say much about some of the other pipes, this dynamite is the only after market one i have so far, i found most for sale besides this one were a lot louder, were i like my maxx quiet, if you are interested in a picture of the one i have, i will gladly post one for you!
I wondered the same thing, and eventually i got a dynamite pipe, it did way better for performance, and it really wasn't much louder than the stock, this is a plain one pipe exhaust, i have heard from some who have bought the duel pipes that they do not work the best but do sound good, my pipe does great, a lot better than stock, your question, my answer to it is circumstantial, depends on what pipe you get for what engine, i found it to make a big difference as well as upgrading from the stock air filter to the 3-stage, the combo of the 3-stage filter and dynamite pipe gave it more of a kick most definitely! Get yourself a nice pretty blue dynamite exhaust, go ahead, you wont do it, i dare you, I'm sure you wont regret it
i can't say much about some of the other pipes, this dynamite is the only after market one i have so far, i found most for sale besides this one were a lot louder, were i like my maxx quiet, if you are interested in a picture of the one i have, i will gladly post one for you!
racendad6
RCTalk Racer
- Thread starter
- #4
yea could you send me a pic and where did you get the filter from
also since i have decided to wait on firing my maxx till warm weather does anyone know if there is a certain way i should store my truck anything i should do to it while it sits for a couple months or so
also since i have decided to wait on firing my maxx till warm weather does anyone know if there is a certain way i should store my truck anything i should do to it while it sits for a couple months or so
Lgeisz
Gone - bye bye.
-if it has fuel in it, Drain as much as possible out.
-Try to get the weight off the wheels, set it on a box/stand, for shocks and tires.
-Put a ziplock bag (Or plastic wrap or foil) on the air filter, so it doesn't just sit there collecting dust.
-Remove batteries from Pack or unplug rechargeables, Put rechargeables on charger before running again.
--That's just about all I have
Hope this helps!!!!
---Luke
-Try to get the weight off the wheels, set it on a box/stand, for shocks and tires.
-Put a ziplock bag (Or plastic wrap or foil) on the air filter, so it doesn't just sit there collecting dust.
-Remove batteries from Pack or unplug rechargeables, Put rechargeables on charger before running again.
--That's just about all I have
Hope this helps!!!!
---Luke
nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
OIL THE ENGINE!!! Traxxas recomends using wd40 cause its made with fish oil and burns off easy, others sometimes use 3-in-1 oil, and marvel mystery oil, i have used 3-in-1 but i never liked to have to, wd40 workes the best, pull out glow plug, spray inside engine, and in carb, turn over engine a few times, do this a few times, and let it sit, drain well before running later on, if you do not do this, then the methanol in the fuel will dry out gaskets, and can ruin parts of the engine, be sure to do this!!! and i have pics for you uploading now tried to get them good but some are a little fuzzy....
I don;t know where the pipe was purchased were i bought it second hand, and the air filter as well, i think the filter came off a revo 3.3 if i remember currectly, but you google it I'm sure you will find something, or you can go to www.buytraxxas.com they have alot of stuff like that...try dynamite.com google it
I don;t know where the pipe was purchased were i bought it second hand, and the air filter as well, i think the filter came off a revo 3.3 if i remember currectly, but you google it I'm sure you will find something, or you can go to www.buytraxxas.com they have alot of stuff like that...try dynamite.com google it
nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
Yeah wrapping the air filter could help, i would imagine t does not hurt and some suggest it, i don't, i clean the filter after every run, and before i pull it out if it has been sitting in dusty area's, when you clean it you need to wash the filter with soap and water, then dry completely, then oil it, after oiling the filter you want to squeeze out all excess oil so its light, its like having cool air intake on your car, witch also requires oil, f it has never had fuel in it I'm sure its fine when it comes to oil in the engine, methanol in the fuel drys everything out if not oiled and put away properly, it is called the after run procedure, you can get after run oil made for the engine, also called after burn, but even traxxas will suggest wd40 over there own after burn oils.....
You can see the three stage in the pic, and with this exhaust, the header pipe is heald on to the engine by a spring witch goes around the engine pulling them together, as well as where the header connects to the actual exhaust, it has three small springs witch hold the two together, and has gaskets of course at all connections, works great havn't put the stock back on since this one went on....
You can see the three stage in the pic, and with this exhaust, the header pipe is heald on to the engine by a spring witch goes around the engine pulling them together, as well as where the header connects to the actual exhaust, it has three small springs witch hold the two together, and has gaskets of course at all connections, works great havn't put the stock back on since this one went on....
nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
After run procedure, drain all nitro, clean air filter, remove batteries, compressed air can help clean the truck, if you don't have a compressor, witch i don't, i use air cans, you find more for electronics, does not have much psi but works great for the r/c's and fits right by your wd40 and other spray cans at the track, after those steps you want to oil the engine, inside and carb, turn it over and do it over again a couple times, then its ready to sit, when pulling it out, drain the engine as you would if it was flooded by removing glow plug hold the truck up side down with a rag covering engine, and turn it over, usually i would put the glow back in, turn it over and take it back out to drain again, sometimes oil sits in the carb and wont want to come out without the compression, after a couple times of draining it she should be ready to go!
Yes that is the three stage, allows a lot of more air to come in, works great, and no problem with the info, here to help, when i got my first nitro witch was a maxx, i experienced ever problem in the book, and even ruined my first engine, tranny, receiver, and a race guard i had, come a long way now, and read a lot of manuals, so i like to help people having the problems or learning what i went through, just drove me to be a pro, before i even ran my first nitro and had it go right i had replaced 50% of it, and rebuilt it up from the frame, so if i can help I'm more than happy too!
I read in your other thread, about breaking it in, some do use the procedure were it is inside, "bench test", but, i would not suggest it unless you have done it many times, the drag the truck puts on the engine when you drive it around and break it in has a lot to do with it if I'm correct, but once, having engine problems, i took a metal box case off of an old 69' car stereo, and drilled holes to bolt in the engine and tank, and sat down and bench tested it to figure out what was wrong with it, so it is possible, be careful though because if fuel comes out the exhaust it stains bad! my porch still has stains from me starting it and a little fuel coming out, can be a mess, but I'm not sure about the break in on a bench, but i can tell you the cold wont hurt, by the time its broken in it will be set up for the cold! mine is adjusted for the cold, ran it today earlier in the snow so i know these engines are fine, but some do require different adjustments for different temps so it may be a good thing to break it in in the cold if you will be driving it in the cold!
Yes that is the three stage, allows a lot of more air to come in, works great, and no problem with the info, here to help, when i got my first nitro witch was a maxx, i experienced ever problem in the book, and even ruined my first engine, tranny, receiver, and a race guard i had, come a long way now, and read a lot of manuals, so i like to help people having the problems or learning what i went through, just drove me to be a pro, before i even ran my first nitro and had it go right i had replaced 50% of it, and rebuilt it up from the frame, so if i can help I'm more than happy too!
I read in your other thread, about breaking it in, some do use the procedure were it is inside, "bench test", but, i would not suggest it unless you have done it many times, the drag the truck puts on the engine when you drive it around and break it in has a lot to do with it if I'm correct, but once, having engine problems, i took a metal box case off of an old 69' car stereo, and drilled holes to bolt in the engine and tank, and sat down and bench tested it to figure out what was wrong with it, so it is possible, be careful though because if fuel comes out the exhaust it stains bad! my porch still has stains from me starting it and a little fuel coming out, can be a mess, but I'm not sure about the break in on a bench, but i can tell you the cold wont hurt, by the time its broken in it will be set up for the cold! mine is adjusted for the cold, ran it today earlier in the snow so i know these engines are fine, but some do require different adjustments for different temps so it may be a good thing to break it in in the cold if you will be driving it in the cold!
nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
Like rolex said in your thread t-maxx 3.3 question, it may be a bad idea to break it in on the bench rather than actually driving it around....
Lgeisz
Gone - bye bye.
and weight off wheels to keep suspension and springs sprung
or put it in its packing
jtboogie
RCTalk Talkaholic
when you guys say store it with the weight off the wheels, do you mean to store it with the center of the truck on something and the wheels hanging off not touching anything?
Lgeisz
Gone - bye bye.
yes. That way the springs wont get bent permanently into the shrunk position, cause they arent fun to respring
nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
Other than that racingdad your maxx should be good and ready to chill! I thought these steps were a pain when i was new to nitro, but after not long at all get the hang of it and its like nothing to put it away or pull it out, i run my maxx almost every day to every other day, cause i live a long ways from civilization, sadly though, ran out of fuel yesterday, so I'm out till later in the week, but some only run there trucks at the races, or not much at all due to not taking care of it, if taken care of, you could play with it everyday!
racendad6
RCTalk Racer
- Thread starter
- #17
haha i prob will be playing with it alot yea I've already gained a ton of knowledge withthe help of you and a couple of others and i completley studied the manual lol
i mean I'm not that new to r/c i have had a 4tec and i have a crappy smart tech so i have pretty good control with them but wasn't aware of the break in process glad i know now
i mean I'm not that new to r/c i have had a 4tec and i have a crappy smart tech so i have pretty good control with them but wasn't aware of the break in process glad i know now
nedlynitro
Gone - bye bye.
Funny about the manual, i read the entire manual and knew everything in it before ever running my maxx for the first time, everything from fuel mixtures to tranny adjustments, thats the way to go, that is where it is technical, you know, and it can show you and describe technical reasons for thngs and how they work, in my opinion, for someone who has just now gotten there first nitro, i would suggest to not even put fuel in it until reading the manual, or you would be sure to mess things up, but thats for someone who is new all around on there first, even running an engine too lean for barely too long will ruin it, when i first got into nitro I'm pretty sure thats how i fried my first engine, but when i got my very first nitro it was second hand, and me as well as others have debated on weather or not i ruined it or if it was not broken in correctly, being the piston looks brand new but has no pinch and little compression, over heats no matter what you do and wont run right, thats my original 2.5, i got a 2.5r now and havnt had problems yet so the other engine may have been bad when i got it and had no idea, this was a long time ago, but for 50$ you can get a piston/sleeve and do a rebuild, witch i have plans on doing so if an engine ruins, its not the end of the world, rebuild it and try again, i found that most had issues with the adjustments only because they did not realize that the happy spot in the needles is micro adjustments some times, and adjusting the needles too far back and forth just bounces right over that happy spot, they are little engines so they need little adjustments, as it said in the manual make adjustments at somewhere like 1/16 of an inch, if I'm correct, but the manual is they way to go, you should post pics of that bad boy under post you maxxx here, i have mine in there on like page 14-15, hook us up we would like to see your machines
Check out youtube.com for tips too, some of the vids on there have complete vids and episodes on break in and other things, i watched a lot of vids back when and that was a help too!
Check out youtube.com for tips too, some of the vids on there have complete vids and episodes on break in and other things, i watched a lot of vids back when and that was a help too!
clabo37862
RC Newbie
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Nedley do you know what brand header that is? I like the look of the pipe running flat down the side. all the stock headers put the pipe at an angle. I would love to find the header that puts my pipe at that angle. I used a stock blue aluminum jato pipe and not only does it look good it puts the exhaust out the bottom. That way I don't need the hole in the side of the body and smoke goes out the bottom toward the ground. Less clean up that way.