Throttle Lag

[GT4racer]

Hey,

I recently broke in my Hyper 7 (8-port).

1)When it idles the wheels spin...what should I do? :shrug:

2)Also when I apply the throttle slightly it sounds like its choking (probably is ) and lags. Does this mean I have to lean the low-end needle or the main one?

Thanks in advance

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Take down the idle. There is an idle screw. While holding the brake @ full you want to turn your idle screw counter clockwise so until the idle is low enough where the wheels do not move and where it is high enough not to flame out or shut off. When you adjust the idle you might have to make other adjustments to the HSN, LSN. Check you manual on the Hyper 7 to make sure about the direction you turn your idle screw to lessin the idle. Sounds like your idle is high and you are really rich or "fat" on you low end. Read this; http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/ht_tunengine_01.asp

 

[Rolex]

If it's turning the wheels at idle, your idle is too high. Lower it. If you are getting lag when you first throttle it, then lean the LSN 1/16th of a turn. When you lean the LSN, you might have to lower the idle some more.
Run it till it's up to temp, then check your idle and LSN settings again.
Make sure your throttle trim is set ALL the way down before adjusting.

 

[jon2]

1.) Make sure your TX Throttle trim is centered when tuning the IDLE screw. Check that your carb opening when tuning the IDLE screw. You want only a 1mm opening most of the time.

2.) Sounds like you may be running too rich. If it wants to bog when you apply gas your HSN needs to be leaned out. Try 1/8 increments and then run it around to see if improves. Try this then the LSN.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Is there an echo in here? LMAO just kidding, also moved this to a more appropriate section.

 

[Rolex]

I noticed that, as soon as I posted. All three of us typing at the same time.
Anyone think some of that info might be usefull?

 

[jon2]

ECHO ECHO. So many different posts! ROLEX I tune differently then you. I like to have the throttle trim centered so I can go back or forward on the play.

 

[Rolex]

Just to clear that up, a problem I see constantly is engines that shut off when the brake is applied. That's because they have set their idle with the trim knob turned up. I ALWAYS make sure to let them know to set the trim at zero before making adjustments.
I also explain this at the track, and tell them to only raise the trim for starting and warming up.

 

[GT4racer]

Ok thanks guys! (sorry for the innappropriate section, its just this was with my 1/8th buggy so I automatically went to the section assigned to them )

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Just to clear that up, a problem I see constantly is engines that shut off when the brake is applied. That's because they have set their idle with the trim knob turned up. I ALWAYS make sure to let them know to set the trim at zero before making adjustments.
I also explain this at the track, and tell them to only raise the trim for starting and warming up.

Holding the brake works also the same but your point is oh so right!

 

[bigfreak]

I hope your needle issue has worked itself out. This however caught my eye:

You want only a 1mm opening most of the time.

I second the 1mm idle gap. I basically use the LSN to adjust my idle. Crazy you say? Give it a shot. After setting the 1mm gap, use the LSN to adjust the idle so that it takes about 10 seconds to idle down (load up). See how much more bottom end performance you have. The 10 second thing only works when the engine is cold. When it's at operating temps, it will idle for a long long time at the same setting.

EDIT: remember a 1mm gap is only 2/3 as wide as your smallest allen wrench! (small) Oh and it seems to work on a wide range on engines.

 

[GT4racer]

ok thanks guys