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The money pit...need some suggestions

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T-maxxJared

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In the last 2 days, the t-maxx has set me back a pretty penny, but it's been a blast. I am a war veteran at taking this thing apart now
proline bowties- 40.00
wheels- 20.00
Hitec steering servo- 37.00
RPM front a-arms- 20.00
shock oil, body clips, servo saver- 10.00
Spur gear went south about 20 min. ago- yet to be determined.

What else is there that will improve the handling and drivability of it? I know plaid is going to show me the proline steering, but is there anything else? Could somebody shed some light on the RPM 2-stage shock pistons? Also, how many tooth spur gear should I get to use in conjuction with the stock bell housing to give me a little more punch out of the hole? Thanks,
Jared Williamson
 
You can use a 15 tooth bell and that will give you some low end torque, I would also suggest getting aluminum bulkheads the stock plastic ones suck and break pretty easy well at least the way I drive my Maxx they have lmao
 
RPM 2 stage shock pistons are awsome, when the shock piston goes up it is stiffer and when it rebounds it is softer. good investment. I run a 70 tooth spurgear works great.
 
and if you dont have a failsafe RUN to the lhs and get one lmao, I think that should be the first upgrade should be for any nitro, I learned the hard way, runaway ending in some massive distruction my second time out lol I thought I was going to hurl :puke: !
 
I want to stick with the stock bell housing, but would that 70 tooth spur give it more bottom end or top end?
 
Honestly I am not sure all I know is when I put a 70 tooth on I had less lap times.
 
well, if the clutch bell/spur gear relationship to speed is the same as a differential, the lower numerically the ratio, the more top end, the higher numerically, the more bottom end, you could calculate the effective gear ratio by dividing the # of teeth on spur gear by the # of teeth on clutch bell. A 70 tooth spur lowers the gear ratio numerically over a 72 tooth spur, so this would give it more top end and less out of the hole. I am a 1:1 car and truck guy, and not in the least an expert on r/c's so if anybody has any corrections or input on this, feel free.
 
The higher the teeth of the spur gear, the more torque. The lower the teeth, the more top end. With the clutch bell it is the higher amount of teeth, more top end and less teeth is more low end.
 
.21Rc10GT said:
The higher the teeth of the spur gear, the more torque. The lower the teeth, the more top end. With the clutch bell it is the higher amount of teeth, more top end and less teeth is more low end.


Yeah what he said lol
 
Jared you going to mills tomorrow?
I'll bring mine and show you what is what....sounds like you're on the right track though....Zandor is right the GAs are indestructable.....little heavy if you're going to race w/ teh stock engine but who does that right?.....and save yourself the headache w/ the spur gears.....get a steel spur and racers edge CB.....70 is nice...I stick w/ 72 cause i like the bottom end punch more than the top speed though....
 
I should be at mills pond tomorrow, I ordered a set of bowties, it saved me about 10 bucks, I should have just bought them locally so I would have them by tomorrow night, the track on stock tires sucks, but I will wing it. I don't want to spend too much money to get it up and running again until I get paid this friday, the maxx and the g/f have just about sucked my disposable income dry for the week. Is it very involved to replace the spur gear? I thought all I would have to do is take the 1 nut off, I haven't really looked at it to see, but I think I have seen some guys on here mentioning removing the whole transmission to do it. I work until about 4:30-5:00, then go to southeast for the parts, and I don't want to sit at the track for 3 hours to fix it, but if it doesn't take long that will be cool.
 
I just saw that the steel spur alone from tower is 23.00 and a plastic one is 4.00, so I think I am just going to go the plastic route for now so I can run it again, I don't think tearing up spurs would be too much of a problem if I had the 2 bolts on the drivers side of the motor back in there, and also the 2 that were still there on the passenger side were loose. I am actually surprised that all it did was tear up a spur....
 
If you dont already have one, get a new radio. SO many people just stick with the STOCk am radio... it drives me nuts. FM is almost a no brainer for nitro.
 
lol... i just bought my first FM radio... JR xs3 pro... i like it so far!!! Gonna buy another receiver for my gt so i only need one controller. I should have my maxx goin by next weekend.
 
hey Jared I'm gonna be wrenching for at least an hour when I get there so come on down.....I have to instell my radio poop again....and my engine....and get a new Tx cause mine is shot..the brakes are gone from the Tx.....
 
ok, well depending on what time I get off work and make it to the hobby store, I will prob. be there around 6. My brother is coming but doesn't want to bring his maxx because he is afraid he will slow everyone down on the track and piss them off, he is worse of a driver than me if you can imagine. I can't wait for the tires to get here so I can actually make it around the track without spinning out. Do they water it down on mon. nights?
 
full alloy tranny guard, thick turnbuckles, proline crowd pleazer body. (the one that's really thick.) And/or Roll Cage.
 
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