talk about it (gears)

[imnotsure]

I’ve seen a lot about the savage gears and every time I read a post about gearing it confuses me. So the question is if I have a 16-tooth bell with a 52 spur gear will I get more top end speed than a 16 t and 49 spur. What I’m trying to do is stop popping wheelies. I have adjusted my shocks and every thing else still pulling the front wheels up.

 

[Mugen-Racer]

That combination will give you more top end and less low end and acceleration. I'm trying to go with 17/49 myself because I have the same problem you have.

 

[imnotsure]

Originally posted by Mugen-Racer
That combination will give you more top end and less low end and acceleration. I'm trying to go with 17/49 myself because I have the same problem you have.

i think my actual question should have been if i'm barely pulling wheelies w/a 16t clutch bell and a 52 spur, what would be the next step w/out losing quite so much acceleration. i like the acceleration, but i don't like the wheelies. i can give it wide open throttle and it will flip on its back. keep in mind this is w/suspension adjustments. i think i've done everything i can to keep the front wheels on the ground. is the 17/49 my next step?

 

[WoodiE]

Gear ratio's explained Here




-Michael

 

[Candyman]

imnotsure...the article WoodiE pointed out is a good one. Makes it pretty easy. My advice? If you want to try to preserve your acceleration without so many wheelies, reduce the size of your spur by only 1 or 2 teeth. By reducing your spur, you're making a very slight change in gear ratio whereas if you go up 1 tooth on your pinion you'll make a greater change.

 

[imnotsure]

Originally posted by WoodiE


Gear ratio's explained Here




-Michael

i have seen that, it still does me no good. i need a minute amount in change in gearing or something else to make this work the way i want it to. i want to punch it and it go full throttle w/the front wheels not coming off the ground and still hold onto my acceleration

and candyman, they only make, from what i've seen so far, 52 and 49 on the spur gear. moving at 1 gear is not gonna happen w/those to, or can i do something to bring the same thing by changing the cluthbell.

 

[BlueRidge1]

I agree with Candyman. I'd play with the spur first if you're really close already.

Just a dumb idea, but did you play with some weighting on the front end? You may be able to preserve the wild acceleration at the cost of just a little weight on the front to keep it from flipping. I'm thinking the amount of weight needed to keep it from flipping might cause less acceleration loss than gearing it for less torque (more top end speed).

 

[SkyMaxx]

When you say that you have adjusted the suspension, define adjusted. In what way?

The gearing is a sure fire way to dump the wheelies, but there are going to be losses. I for one prefer the low end grunt to the top speed. Makes for fun when climbing and short run-ups to big ramps. I have adjusted my suspension and have not had a wheelie problem since.

While not very technical, the weight idea has great merit. You will see full sized funny cars with weights in the front end to help keep the front wheels down.

 

[imnotsure]

Originally posted by SkyMaxx
When you say that you have adjusted the suspension, define adjusted. In what way?

The gearing is a sure fire way to dump the wheelies, but there are going to be losses. I for one prefer the low end grunt to the top speed. Makes for fun when climbing and short run-ups to big ramps. I have adjusted my suspension and have not had a wheelie problem since.

While not very technical, the weight idea has great merit. You will see full sized funny cars with weights in the front end to help keep the front wheels down.

I have tried 25,35 and 45 wt shock oil and the 25 seem to work better. I also adjusted the shocks up and down front/back and found that by screwing the threads to about ¼ in from the top, the wheelies are not as bad. Also tried loosening the slipper, which caused me to buy new one (they get really hot BTW). The savage is almost all aluminum the weight still won’t hold it down.

I know I will lose something from changing the gears but what I’m trying to do is to minimize the change. Also keep in mind Iam running the picco .26.

 

[SuperMaxx97]

on my supermaxx all i did is went 2 more teeth higher on the cb and it stopped the constant wheelies. everyonce in a while it will get up in the air but not like it used too

 

[imnotsure]

Originally posted by SuperMaxx97
on my supermaxx all i did is went 2 more teeth higher on the cb and it stopped the constant wheelies. everyonce in a while it will get up in the air but not like it used too

Thats what i tried also and lost the the acceleration. Is there a 50 or 51 tooth spur gear that will or can be modified to fit on the savage? I'm so close yet so far away.

 

[SuperMaxx97]

i dont know anything about the savage gearing, i have a supermaxx so i dont know. i am running the XTM 24.7 so it has way too much acceleration to start with, so i went and made some of that speed.

bryan

 

[unsavagable]

I have extended tvp's and a picco w/ a 16 t spur gear on a 3 shoe clutch with the other gear being stock. I can not get the truck to wheelie on comand. I recomend the extended tvp's to be considered as a solution. I have not done much to the shocks (stock) except put zip ties as spacers to make the truck sit a bit more level. It off bumwill only wheelie ps or coming over a slight hill. I have also still managed a back flip jump with the truck. Consider the extended tvp's.

 

[imnotsure]

that looks like the way i need to go thanks unsavagable.

 

[TexSavage]

There is a range of spurs available for the Savage. Look here . I run 50t spur/16t clutchbell. That works well enough for me.

Tex

 

[imnotsure]

that will work I looked everywhere for them except, well now you know.:beer: