T- maxx is dead.

[1mtx1]

So i got in to a pos t maxx that was nothing but issues from the start. I got it going today and sure enough the motor internal parts tore a part. I even messed up the clutch. It had a 3.3 with a 2.5 front end .15 rear end with wheelie bar. Some rpm upgrades and it has stock electronics . It is a mix match of maxx's. I like it but it is going to be a money pit. I have saved the tune pipe, carb, motor mount and air filter and pullstart/bearing. I will go with a 2.5 that needs my parts and do a drop in and brake in. I know i need a new steering servo . So another 115.00 to get her back running. Oh yea the remote fell apart in my hand. I had to take it apart and fix the throttle screw on the remote. It has been a bad few days. I only blame my self as i thought i could run it as is and upgrade the drive train. I know some people will say go with another motor but i am not going to spend 125.00 on a motor/carb/tunepipe/air filter etc. I am trying my best to use what i have.

 

[hulkmaxx]

Nothing wrong with the 2.5 Traxxas engines, and ebay has them cheap!

 

[1mtx1]

Nothing wrong with the 2.5 Traxxas engines, and ebay has them cheap!

I feel kinda pissed but it was a used rc and ya never know what you get with them. I have her ready for a new motor , i saved all the parts that will be good for a half ready 2.5. I have a 2.5 with out a motor mount, carb, one way bearing pull start and it needs a clutch . I have those things and there in great shape, i found a new motor/clutch for like 85.00 . I like the price as this will not really put me in to the 150.00 range and i will be able to eat lol. I have to wait a few weeks but i have another rc that came the other day. So i have some stuff to stay busy. I have my new on/off harness so i can use a receiver pack, right now i have a few things on craigslist for sale and if i can sell them i could get the motor/clutch sooner. I might even be able to get a new steering servo. As you can see i am trying to be positive and just make the best of this. I do think i will not wheelie and i can sell the wheelie bar on ebay and make a few bucks or hold it. Ya think the .15 drive train with some 2.5 parts can handle the 2.5? I have a mix match truck on my hands but i love the foward only so that will be great with the 2.5. No more bucking issues, many years ago i had a 2.5 maxx and it would buck from a start to mid speed. It was so bad lol

 

[hulkmaxx]

Your pro .15 drive line should hold the 2.5 for awhile man. I would disassemble your diffs and inspect them make sure the grease is good to go inside. Just regular maintenance that most people don't do that can prevent future issues.

 

[1mtx1]

Your pro .15 drive line should hold the 2.5 for awhile man. I would disassemble your diffs and inspect them make sure the grease is good to go inside. Just regular maintenance that most people don't do that can prevent future issues.

main reason i am going with the smaller motor . I know some people would want to upgrade but i have a new in box rc sitting here and way more money then i wanted to put in to getting back in to this hobby. I looked over the rc as i tore her apart yesterday. I seen nothing wrong, just the battery box screws are stripped so i will upgrade the battery and receiver i seen a nice set for a few bucks. I all ways take care of my stuff i got the truck used first thing i did was clean and take care of the rip in the on/off harness. I did everything but take the motor apart i guess that would of helped to find the motor was about dead. Thanks for your help

 

[hulkmaxx]

To be honest I like the 2.5 better than the 3.3 Traxxas engines. Not that the 3.3 engine are no good but I have seen a lot of rod problems in the 3.3. Later on if your into a budget engine you mau consider the Dynamite .19. At a 100 bucks there a good buy. My buddy is running one and it outs down some good speed and power. Plus the stock older maxx driveline can still handle it for awhile.

 

[1mtx1]

To be honest I like the 2.5 better than the 3.3 Traxxas engines. Not that the 3.3 engine are no good but I have seen a lot of rod problems in the 3.3. Later on if your into a budget engine you mau consider the Dynamite .19. At a 100 bucks there a good buy. My buddy is running one and it outs down some good speed and power. Plus the stock older maxx driveline can still handle it for awhile.

many years ago my friend put a .21 i think in his buggy from them. I know he liked it and he said it broke in nice and held a great tune. He even had it a tad to lean and when i got him in a better temp range it was a nice motor. I will look in to a Dynamite motor. I am more or less leaning towards the 2.5 based on i can use the parts i saved and the flywheel/clutch setup and motor i found a ebay seller that has them very cheap. I did the math and its 78 to my door. I all so do not need to lube the bearings as the clutch set is from the motor the seller just tears them down and sells off parts to make a tad bit more in sales.For me it is the best way to get back to using my truck. I know i will lose some power but out bashing it will not mean to much and it will be less pain on my drive train and wallet.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

It had a 3.3 with a 2.5 front end .15 rear end with wheelie bar.

Your pro .15 drive line should hold the 2.5 for awhile man.

:headscratch:

Ya'll are talking about a 2.5 as though it were something different from a .15........

1 cubic inch = 16.4cc

2.5cc = .15 CI.

That's like saying "I wouldn't wanna carry 50 kilos, but 110 pounds is fine".........

 

[chickenman242]

A trx pro .15 is a different engine compared to the trx 2.5
The trucks are also different due to the pro have a rotary carb and the 2.5 having a slide

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

A trx pro .15 is a different engine compared to the trx 2.5
The trucks are also different due to the pro have a rotary carb and the 2.5 having a slide

As well as exhaust port and physical appearance. I understand that. Just saying carb, crank and exhaust configurations may change, but .15 CI displacement is .15 CI displacement, whether listed in standard or metric.

 

[hulkmaxx]

:headscratch:

Ya'll are talking about a 2.5 as though it were something different from a .15........

1 cubic inch = 16.4cc

2.5cc = .15 CI.

That's like saying "I wouldn't wanna carry 50 kilos, but 110 pounds is fine".........

First off the engine's are different. The pro.15 is basically a big :dancingpoop: as it is they are both .15 size engines. The 2.5 make, as it seems about twice as much power as the pro.15. No there is not much difference in the diffs other than the diff cases on the newer 2.5 truck had a four screw case VS the older two screw case. Also I have owned and upgrade about 15 or so of the pro.15 trucks and the axles seem to be somewhat weaker to me then the stocker 2.5 truck. Also if it is a true pro .15 truck it will have the narrow arms on it. Not sure how much you actually know about the maxx truck but I have built about 30 from the chassis out everything from stock to full on race trucks. I know the maxx platform very well.

 

[Sixtysixdeuce]

Not sure how much you actually know about the maxx truck but I have built about 30 from the chassis out everything from stock to full on race trucks.

Not that well. Haven't owned one myself, just repaired the ones that customers have brought in, which have usually been altered quite a bit already; covered in alloy parts, stuffed with big blocks, etc. Never paid a tremendous amount of attention to the more subtle differences, and I believe most of what I've seen have been the earlier trucks.

It just struck me as odd to talk about two .15 size engines as though one were a small block and the other a big block

 

[Nitrotrout]

Your pro .15 drive line should hold the 2.5 for awhile man. I would disassemble your diffs and inspect them make sure the grease is good to go inside. Just regular maintenance that most people don't do that can prevent future issues.

+1

:headscratch:

Ya'll are talking about a 2.5 as though it were something different from a .15........

1 cubic inch = 16.4cc

2.5cc = .15 CI.

That's like saying "I wouldn't wanna carry 50 kilos, but 110 pounds is fine".........

As far as T Maxx's go, there's significant differences between a .15 & 2.5
not only in engine enhancements but total truck design.
Only the engine displacement is the same.

The Pro .15 has a small side exhaust port, and small rotary style carb.
Small cooling head.

The 2.5 has a larger bore slide carb, larger round rear exhaust, longer knife edge con rod,
larger cooling head, for a claimed 60% increase in power.

So basically .15 & 2.5 is just a way to decipher one truck/ engine from the other.

 

[1mtx1]

thanks everyone for going over the 2 trucks. I am still working on what i have, i have the motor and new clutch/fly wheel ready to be bought. I have a few other things i will buy to help upgrade what i have. I know i need a new fuel tank/tubing and i want a new receiver/battery box and steering servo. i think when i get things done it should be a nice park basher.

 

[hulkmaxx]

Not that well. Haven't owned one myself, just repaired the ones that customers have brought in, which have usually been altered quite a bit already; covered in alloy parts, stuffed with big blocks, etc. Never paid a tremendous amount of attention to the more subtle differences, and I believe most of what I've seen have been the earlier trucks.

It just struck me as odd to talk about two .15 size engines as though one were a small block and the other a big block

I don't think I made any reference of a 2.5 being a big block compared to the pro.15. However if you drive a pro .15 then a 2.5 you would think it were a big block compared to the power increase. I have had TNT mod 2.5 race engine's that put out enough power to twist the stock drive line off like a twig.

 

[1mtx1]

I don't think I made any reference of a 2.5 being a big block compared to the pro.15. However if you drive a pro .15 then a 2.5 you would think it were a big block compared to the power increase. I have had TNT mod 2.5 race engine's that put out enough power to twist the stock drive line off like a twig.

I find it funny there are many pro .15 out there still for sale. I think there still a hefty penny for one. I will stick with the 2.5 i been looking on line but i am ready to order soon. I would like to see a video of the drive line of a truck snap like a twig.

 

[hulkmaxx]

Back in the day when TNT mods was still in business my LHS owner was running the 2.5 in the 1/10 scale UMT class that was modded by TNT. Thing was insanely fast for a 2.5. So I bought a couple new 2.5 engines and had him send them off to get modded. I think I made 2 tanks before I snapped the rear drive shaft off at the joint. After replacing like 5 or 6 drive shafts and several axles I bought a set of steel CVD's.

 

[1mtx1]

Back in the day when TNT mods was still in business my LHS owner was running the 2.5 in the 1/10 scale UMT class that was modded by TNT. Thing was insanely fast for a 2.5. So I bought a couple new 2.5 engines and had him send them off to get modded. I think I made 2 tanks before I snapped the rear drive shaft off at the joint. After replacing like 5 or 6 drive shafts and several axles I bought a set of steel CVD's.

I think now a days we just go for the bigger better upgrade after one issue. Well i hope we do. Is that LHS still in business?

 

[hulkmaxx]

Sure is! They only race short coarse electric now. When they start nitro again I plan on running in the UMT class again. He has been working on a new track to run 1/8th scale nitro.

 

[1mtx1]

Sure is! They only race short coarse electric now. When they start nitro again I plan on running in the UMT class again. He has been working on a new track to run 1/8th scale nitro.

i need a spot to run my sc10gt. I might have to just race by my self, its sad to see this hobby fall apart. Well the nitro side , i might have to get another sc truck and have my girl race against me.