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T-Maxx 3.3 Integy evo-3 kit

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wadebanshee2229

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Hello all I have a T-Maxx 3.3 and I'm new to nitro r/c. I just recieved my integy Evo-3 suspension arm kit. I was shocked to see there were no instructions with it ( LOL ) I have put the arms on correct I hope, but i'm stuck with the shock tower and msr8 shocks. I have used the parts that came with the kit but the shocks seem to have a lot of play in them at the tower? Also there are small copper pieces that came with the kit that I have know idea where they go? PLEASE HELP Thanks Wade
 
Perfect example of why so many people stay away from Integy products. You'd think for as many products as they have out on the market that somebody would have thought... Hmm.. maybe we should include some instructions.

Ok Wade.. what do these pieces look like? Can you take a picture of them? How many are there?
 
Hi Sorry Didn't have camera last night. Here are the copper pieces I was asking about. The other screws go in the end of the arms I think? But wont that mess up the threads that hold the arms on? Hope the picture posts. I'll be adding more pictures soon with more ???? lol Thanks for all the help. Yeah I agree about integy being so big and not caring if we know how to put together. I wrote an e-mail to them telling them that too but i'm sure i'm not the first one too. Thanks again Wade

t-maxx parts.webp
 
Here are some other pictures let me know if anyone can see anything I did wrong or if I'm missing any parts. The picture with the body posts i'm not sure how to put them on either. I tried to put the body post next to the shock tower were it goes and it hits the shocks? Will i need to buy another rear post for the quick start to mount there? Thanks Wade
 

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The one picture is of a close up of where the shock meets tower. You can see there is a gap in it and there is a lot of play? Is there spacers or something that goes in there?
 
I'm sorry to tell you this but integy arms are junk. They are cast aluminum rather than machined billet and they will pretzel very easily. If you are a basher be very careful. My LHS won't carry integy aluminum a arms because of all the complaints.
 
In the 3rd and 4th pictures in the row above, there is a grove in the middle of the upper A-Arm. Isn't that grove supposed to be facing down as a clearance for the driveshafts/axles? I think they're upside unless they are grooved on both sides.
 
It's possible the copper pieces may be bushings that go in the top hole of the shocks where they bolt onto the tower.

Also if you don't have your heart set on aluminum I strongly recommend the RPM nylon A arms. They are practically indestructable and if you do happen to break one send it to the company and they will send you a new one. I use them all around on my maxx and they survived a crash that constituted about 13 cartwheels at 30mph. Their bumpers are pretty tough too.
 
Yea if you'r eplanning on driving the truck, I would save the aluminum ones for show and use RPM to bash with. I heard they were tough but last week I started jumping my truck for the first time, and all I can say is WOW. I was driving it towards me and jumping it over my head while standing and it was taking it all and asking for more. I finally wrecked so hard that the motor shifted and stripped the spur, but the arms weren't hurt a bit. I wanted an all aluminum truck but the guys here talked me into the arms so I decided to try them for 2 weeks, then get some aluminum ones. Well, I'll never own a set of aluminum for anything that I plan on racing or bashing after seeing how the RPM performs, it's absolutely amazing.
 
How about the play in the shocks anyone have any idea why? The last picture is a close up of the gap i'm talking about? Thanks for all the info guys
 
It looks to be like there should be some kind of spacer or bushing in there, but I've never installed one of these kits. I do have the integy piggyback shocks though and I like them better than I thought I would, I wouldn't buy another set those just because if something happens I know I wont be able to get any customer service.
 
from what I see, it looks like those are grub screws that you would use to help secure the pivot balls to the upper and lower arms. see if those little metallic spacers fit into the holes before you put the grub screws in. if they do fit then most likely they are there to prevent stripping of the screws themselves when over tightened. That would be my best guess based on the pics you provided.

as far as your shock problem goes, i guess it is possible that integey mass produces so much crap, that they overlooked a true fit for even their own products. it doesn't look like the shock caps fit onto the pins right that you use to mount them to the towers.

the other parts you have left over look like plastic body mounts for the front and rear. the round shaped alum. spacers look like the same pieces you'd use to mount the posts to the shock towers.

reassemble, haha then burn it. I'm not a big fan of Integy. and yes one would think that instructions would come with their products since they make aftermarket parts for every single part you can find for the T-Maxx. yes, I do have a few integy parts, but they are simple, non moving, and not crucial to performance. (i.e a wheelie bar)

I swear they just build parts for the masses without actually testing out their own products.... just cause they look cool... cause if they did, then I'd like to know how the hell they managed to tune a 2.5 engine with that quad exhaust kit they make.... its just not possible... unless their defination of "tune" is to keep it neatly stored sitting on a shelf in your basement. (see also, paperweight)

post some more pics of different angles, a few close ups and a few further away. its hard to see the relation to it when its only closeups.

also, post a few more pics of different angles for the extra parts themselves. I'm pretty good at figuring these kind of things out visually, but i need to see the big picture.

it alsmost looks like the post mounts themselves act as the spacer you need for the shocks. if they mount low enough on the chassis that may be the issue.

if this doesn't help, try to google a pic or 2 of fully completed integy kits and see what comes up. seeing the finished product could shed some new light.
 
Thanks for the help. Here are more pictures hope they will help. Thanks Wade
 

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More Pictures
Thanks Wade
 

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