Suddenly Does Not Shift (Good Tune)

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tjstinson

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DESPERATE! Suddenly Does Not Shift (Good Tune)

This truck (HPI Racing Savage X F4.6) is fairly new (purchased in February 2014) and I had a good tune and shift point established on it until recently when it suddenly (overnight) would not shift to second.

I realize everyone has their own idea of a good tune, but I can only ask that you give me the benefit of the doubt as to explain the tune might only lead to discussions that divert from the what might be the actual problem.

This might get murky, but I am going to explain some things that might have attributed to the problem, but not necessarily. I feel, however, to omit these details might prevent one from coming to the right conclusion.

First, when I started the truck out of the box, the throttle trim was set to 100% on the transmitter. Before I could understand why it was seemingly lean and the wheels were increasing speed, it was too late. A spur gear was melted and smoke billowed from where the spur gear and bell gear mesh. The spur gear was also stripped of teeth and it is anyone's best guess as to what damage this could have caused the piston and sleeve.

I had the truck shipped to HPI and they say they looked it over. They did report that the truck had a good shift and that everything looked fine. I doubt they opened the engine, but either way I have compression and combustion. The engine seems to have survived.

I ran it for weeks following and until recently, with the exception of not seeing wheelies, I felt the truck was operating fairly well. A couple weeks ago it was shifting and I put it up for the day. The next day I took it out and no shift. I also noticed that the low-end torque was leaving much to be desired, but it is possible this was always the case since I got it. The absent or early shift was completely new to me.

One thing I hadn't considered to be damaged from the time I first started the truck and blew the spur gear, but should have, was the clutch shoes. Well, they went out this week and when I was replacing them they were horrible. I suspect that heat generated from the first run melted the spur gear and certainly the shoes. I should have checked them when it happened, but I assumed HPI would have looked it over as this was a concern.

I installed the HPI aluminum clutch shoe upgrade. I hoped that this would fix the missing low-end torque (the truck moves, but is requires more throttle than I would think necessary in the grass and has NEVER popped wheelies).

I have tightened spur gears. I have tuned it to the point that I reach temps of 270 and 280 and have to back off. I get a decent speed without the shift and a fair take off when I mash WOT, but early power and a shift is missing. I am almost CERTAIN the RPMs are present to pop into 2nd.

I have adjusted the transmission screw (yes, the right one) and I saw NO difference at all. I moved it back to stock position- still no difference. Turned it IN 3 turns- nothing. I tightened the grub screw that holds that gear in place as well. I have not checked to see if it was broken, but it is in there firmly. The finger on the transmission gear seems fine too. At first I thought it was broken because it was angled to a point, but I have looked at the stock fingers and they are the same.

I am at a loss. I have checked diffs front and back. I have smooth movement in the transmission gears. I have a stock tight drive line from rear to front as best I can tell. There isn't slop.

What am I missing? What could be going on? Does the overheating from the first start come into play in this? Is there something else that could have been damaged like the clutch shoes that I am not thinking of?
 
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The first thing I would check is the slipper clutch, if it's loose it will rob low end power and could slip just enough for it not to shift. Forget about the proper setting for a minute and lock it down tight then try to run the truck, if it shifts you can back off the slipper nut about a 1/4 turn.
 
The first thing I would check is the slipper clutch, if it's loose it will rob low end power and could slip just enough for it not to shift. Forget about the proper setting for a minute and lock it down tight then try to run the truck, if it shifts you can back off the slipper nut about a 1/4 turn.
I tightened that baby so tight that I would need a machine to twist it further. I agree that the solution you offer makes the most sense from the lack of wheelies and missing torque. I will check it again, but I have always tightened it fully and never backed off as the manual suggests. I heard that it should be tight, tight, tight. So i push the coils on that spring to their limits.
 
Is it possible that the clutch finger isn't operating properly and how would I know? I noticed there are two grub screws that set the clutch holder in place. Why two?
 
The center grub locks it to the shaft, the offset one changes the shift point.
Like a clock...turn it clockwise it will shift later, like from 1:00 to 2:00.
Counter clockwise it will shift sooner, like from noon to 11:00 AM.
 
Thank you for your help. I may not have been clear as to what I was asking.

On the clutch holder there is the adjustment screw and then a hole with TWO grub (set) screws that attaches the clutch holder to the shaft. I was specifically curious as to why there needed to be two separate screws in the hole that fastens the clutch holder. There is a small one and then beneath it a long one that fastens to the shaft.
 
I had one of the screw shafts come loose and fall out once. Lost second gear and also chewed up the first gear pretty bad.
 
Well, not sure I've seen what you're talking about but I would guess it's been added as an additional lock if I'm reading it correctly. Did you buy it used?
 
Well, not sure I've seen what you're talking about but I would guess it's been added as an additional lock if I'm reading it correctly. Did you buy it used?

Bought it in February brand new. Unmodified. Fresh off the shelf with the tamper sticker unaltered.

I suspect the manual has the part and image blow up that shows two grubs in one hole. I will look at the manual and if I do not reply, it means it IS, in fact, a verified part.
 
Clutch tuning

Your set screw may be loose, or your shift point adjustment screw may have backed its self out from vibration, take your tranny apart and see if the two screws are set at factory. make sure your set screw is tightened, and make sure your adjusting screw if flush with the "factory line" go from there, if this doesn't work, which I'm almost positive it will, then contact HPI or your local hobby shop:first_place:

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 PM ----------

oh and make sure your ball bearing and your spring are still underneath the adjusting screw, if not, you might want to check for damage
 
Your set screw may be loose, or your shift point adjustment screw may have backed its self out from vibration, take your tranny apart and see if the two screws are set at factory. make sure your set screw is tightened, and make sure your adjusting screw if flush with the "factory line" go from there, if this doesn't work, which I'm almost positive it will, then contact HPI or your local hobby shop:first_place:

---------- Post added at 10:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:02 PM ----------

oh and make sure your ball bearing and your spring are still underneath the adjusting screw, if not, you might want to check for damage

I appreciate your help, but like I said in my initial post, I have adjusted the clutch holder screw and it did nothing. I got no shift when turning it IN or turning it back to factory setting.
 
ah i see maybe i should i have read upwards lol.. well your 2 screw are still there? and the spring and ball are both there?
 
It's possible that it's stuck in second gear, this will also explain not having low end power.
 
It's possible that it's stuck in second gear, this will also explain not having low end power.

EXACTLY! That is what I suspected all along. But why? Is the clutch finger broke? I think it is as I can easily move it with a screw driver and pull it out. Is that normal? When I do it stays there until it gravity moves it back when I turn it manually. Is there a spring that acts like one on the clutch shoes that forces that finger in and keeps it there until it reaches higher RPMs or is it suppose to be loose?

---------- Post added at 9:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:50 PM ----------

ah i see maybe i should i have read upwards lol.. well your 2 screw are still there? and the spring and ball are both there?

Well, the two screws are. The ball I am unsure of. Is it the ball that is located behind the finger?

As for the spring, I don't see one. That is what I fear is missing. It is a spring that traps the finger down until it achieves high RPMs I am guessing? Is it a spring like what the clutch shoes have?

If the spring is there, could I move the finger easily with my finger or a screw driver and if I could wouldn't the spring flick it back when I let go? Because the finger on my clutch holder will just stay out when I move it out.

This is a tear down of the XL transmission, but it so similar that I believe they might be the same. Note the grub screw and the set screw from the clutch holder just as I referenced. http://www.savage-central.com/

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If I buy a new clutch holder, do you know or expect that the finger and spring are included in the holder? The part description does not specify:

http://www.amain.com/product_info.p...roduct-Feeds&gclid=CKL80NX21L0CFcdaMgodcQ4AKQ
 
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Page 36 in your manual show what is in the clutch holder, it is a spring loaded hub. When you tighten the grub screw you are adding tension to the spring thus needing more rpm's for it to engage and shift into second gear. If it's too loose it will engage the clutch with very little rpm and you will start in second, too tight and it will never shift into second. It is possible that something has gone wrong with the hub but unless you take the tranny apart it's hard to say for sure.

Same page also shows the double grub you are talking about...The first one you see is a grub but the one under it is actually the pin that goes through the hub and holds it on the shaft. The grub is basically a safety measure to prevent the pin from backing out.


EXACTLY! That is what I suspected all along. But why? Is the clutch finger broke? I think it is as I can easily move it with a screw driver and pull it out. Is that normal?

It just clicked on what you are explaining...Sounds like the spring might be broken. If you remove the grub that adjust the clutch you should see a small spring in the hub.
 
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yep, you're missing the spring, its just a small coul spring inbetween the ball and the set screw, the finger should snap back when you let go. thats your problem

---------- Post added at 7:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:25 AM ----------

or your spring doesn't have enough tension
 
You ALL are a GREAT help! The activity, assistance, and selflessness of this forum is unmatched in the hobby. I appreciate all the trouble you went to in order to help me. I can't wait to replace the clutch holder and give some closure to this particular issue. I hope it helps others that might have similar symptoms in the future as this shifting issue is often met with responses of tuning (understandably so as it is most often the issue), spur gear setup (again, very understandable considering the comparable symptoms), and other chasing that is rarely directed at the clutch holder. I know I learned a lot with this problem because I chased so many directions, but when we came to what I believe is the correct solution, it seems obvious as it explains so many other issues I have been having over the past month.

Thanks again! I really do appreciate it and I am grateful for everyone that posted or considered my issue. Yeah, I mean you. You're awesome!
 
A savage deserves to run, and it will run! all it takes is some money and determination
 
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