Hpisavagecrazy
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I have a STS .30DM for my savage and i was wondering what would be the correct spur gear,clutch bell,flywheel and etc. to run this to perfection.:madface:
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STS .30DM Questions!
- Thread starter Hpisavagecrazy
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Stock flywheel, with carbon shoes (aluminum 7075 after break in) 16 tooth CB on a 47 tooth SG, go up to 17 after break in, use an OS #8 plug, switch to O'Donnels #99 after break in, 25% nitro, and you'll need to put 2 gallons through it to completely break it in, but 1 gallon it will really wake up.
If you want to, take the STS carb off and put on a 3 needle carb from an Axial/HPI .28, the needles are better sealed and less touchy and the mid range needle makes it much easier to tune IMO.
I went through the same process with my Maximus Modded .30 and the switch to the carb was much easier.
Oh and BTW, DO NOT RUSH THIS BREAK IN!!! IF YOU GET CARRIED AWAY AND OVER REV IT, YOU WILL SNAP THE CRANK.
This engine has an insane amount of pinch and requires a heat gun to get it started cold on the 1st gallon.
If you want to, take the STS carb off and put on a 3 needle carb from an Axial/HPI .28, the needles are better sealed and less touchy and the mid range needle makes it much easier to tune IMO.
I went through the same process with my Maximus Modded .30 and the switch to the carb was much easier.
Oh and BTW, DO NOT RUSH THIS BREAK IN!!! IF YOU GET CARRIED AWAY AND OVER REV IT, YOU WILL SNAP THE CRANK.
This engine has an insane amount of pinch and requires a heat gun to get it started cold on the 1st gallon.
Last edited:
rdt45
RCTalk Basher
I run a hardened clutch bell and hardened spur 18/49 and it runs great. Ate two stock spurs. If your going to run anything other than 30% you should reshim the head. They come from the factory shimmed for 30%.
Hpisavagecrazy
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What is the proper break in for this engine?
Straight from the manual:
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
1. Install a new glow-plug (Hotter rated plugs will be better for the rich settings used during break-in)
2. Use high castor (12% or above) and low nitro rated glow fuel, 5%~15% nitro is best.
3. First tank of fuel: Start your engine, idle for 2 minutes with rich air/fuel mixture setting (some raw fuel is spitting from the exhaust) then stop and let it cool down. When your engine is stopped, make sure the piston is NOT at Top Dead Center (TDC) by rotating the flywheel. Let it cool down and repeat the “start-idle cycle” 6 to 8 times. If idle rpm is too high, adjust the Idle/air-screw. Make sure the temperature is under 80 oC (176 F).
4. Next several tanks of fuel: run the car on the track at low speed (50% to 80% throttle). Avoid using a constant throttle position; keep blipping the throttle to vary the rpm, slow-fast-slow-fast etc. Check the temperature regularly and keep it between 80 oC (176 F) and 100oC (212 F), if you can not measure temps make sure the engine is running at heavy smoke from the tuned pipe.
5. When your engine is still being run-in, higher running temperature is expected. As time goes on, running temperature will be lowered. At this point you may lean the engine by turning the main needle clockwise incrementally and keep the engine running temperature at or below 100oC (212 F). After about 1~2 liter fuel through it, take out the glow plug and turn the flywheel by hand, let the piston pass the top dead center in the sleeve. When you don't have any significant friction or just a little snug, you can start leaning the main needle incrementally in small steps, and keep it around 100~120 oC (212~248 F).
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
1. Install a new glow-plug (Hotter rated plugs will be better for the rich settings used during break-in)
2. Use high castor (12% or above) and low nitro rated glow fuel, 5%~15% nitro is best.
3. First tank of fuel: Start your engine, idle for 2 minutes with rich air/fuel mixture setting (some raw fuel is spitting from the exhaust) then stop and let it cool down. When your engine is stopped, make sure the piston is NOT at Top Dead Center (TDC) by rotating the flywheel. Let it cool down and repeat the “start-idle cycle” 6 to 8 times. If idle rpm is too high, adjust the Idle/air-screw. Make sure the temperature is under 80 oC (176 F).
4. Next several tanks of fuel: run the car on the track at low speed (50% to 80% throttle). Avoid using a constant throttle position; keep blipping the throttle to vary the rpm, slow-fast-slow-fast etc. Check the temperature regularly and keep it between 80 oC (176 F) and 100oC (212 F), if you can not measure temps make sure the engine is running at heavy smoke from the tuned pipe.
5. When your engine is still being run-in, higher running temperature is expected. As time goes on, running temperature will be lowered. At this point you may lean the engine by turning the main needle clockwise incrementally and keep the engine running temperature at or below 100oC (212 F). After about 1~2 liter fuel through it, take out the glow plug and turn the flywheel by hand, let the piston pass the top dead center in the sleeve. When you don't have any significant friction or just a little snug, you can start leaning the main needle incrementally in small steps, and keep it around 100~120 oC (212~248 F).
And make sure you have a good pipe for the STS engines, the .30 doesn't seem to like large diameter stingers, like the HPI ribbed-for-your-pleasure pipe or the HPI polished, some good ones are the THS/Tsais pipes and JP series, and of course the STS 0702 and 0403 pipes.
Running problems
hey there, does anyone currently own and run this engine? my D30M is having some technical problems, it just wont run. when i pull it over, it might kind of idle for a few seconds, but once it starts to get any heat to the head, it wont run. then when you pull it over, and you are returning for the second pull, it will all of a sudden jerk on your hand. does this sound like a bad one way?
hey there, does anyone currently own and run this engine? my D30M is having some technical problems, it just wont run. when i pull it over, it might kind of idle for a few seconds, but once it starts to get any heat to the head, it wont run. then when you pull it over, and you are returning for the second pull, it will all of a sudden jerk on your hand. does this sound like a bad one way?