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Steering Linkage binding....need some help.....

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mcvickj

mcvickj

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I was working on getting my Maxx back together after replacing a few busted parts and I ran into some problems with the front end. It appears that I am having some binding problems but I have no idea where. I do know that the draglink between the two arms is rubbing on the underside of my diff.

I haven't complete torn apart the front end because I was hoping I am missing something really easy. Just by pushing the arm that connects to the servo it is extreamly difficult to move the assembly.

I have already roached my servo saver and a horn because the high torque servo couldn't move the steering assembly. If no one has any ideas I guess my next step will be to disassemble the front end.

I noticed that the draglink was slightly bent. I managed to hammer it as close as possible.

While I am on this subject I guess some options to different steering hopups would be nice to know. Would this be a better option?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDCW6&P=K
Or am I still going to have the same problem till I figure out why I am having binding problems?

Picture of my front end...
61front_end-med.jpg


Another picture...
61front_end_left_side-med.jpg


If you go to my gallery you can click on the pictures for a larger view.

TIA.

-JR
 
There is very little clearance between the draglink and the diff event with the stock setup. You may have to file down the diff case slightly.
 
You know I had same prob. too, but I can't remember what I did. I know if I flipped truck over and pressed susp. where turnbuckles were straight, that solved it.

Try that and see what happens.
 
Here is the official FastEddy fix.
After picking the lint from my belly button for an hour or so I came up with the best way to take care of this issue.

Place a thin washer slightly larger than the OD of the post in between the post and chassis. Make sure the washer isn't smaller than the post or it may cause binding. If more than one washer is needed thats fine. Shim the posts just enough to clear the diff case.

I'm not sure why yours is rubbing. The two Maxxes I have dont do this. I wonder if you have some kind of a chassis tweak.

This is a great way to fix the clearance issue but I believe there is something else going on.
 
The pivot points in your linkage should all move freely. You can't really determine this until you disconnect both turnbuckles from the steering knuckles and the drag link from the servo.

If that's all good you may have the pivot ball caps in the steering knuckles cinched down too tight.

That steering linkage is just sitting on your skid plate right now. It's possible that once you get the chassis and the rails mounted your skid plate and linkage will be "square" with the rest of the truck and that clearance problem will be eliminated.

oh yeah... that proline kit is excellent.
 
I disconnected both of the turnbuckles from the assembly and it moved a lot easier.

How tight should the pivot ball caps be?
 
Pivot ball caps

I don't believe it's the Pivot Ball Caps as they (technically) cannot be overtightened.
If you replaced the Axle Carriers (and I can see you've had them off as you have RPM A-Arms) make sure the hex ends are not too tight, as this will case binding too.
These are the large hex keyed screws that fit into the steering knuckles/axle carriers.
 
If the pivot ball caps are tight, the ball will not pivot easily causing binding...
Take out the pivot ball caps and pivot balls. Inspect, clean & lightly lube the pivot balls. Screw in caps till the touch the ball, then back out slightly till the ball moves freely. You can also use a little graphite in those ball caps. Thats definately your binding issue though.
 
Thanks for the info. Sadly I am at work now. I will give that a try tonight.
 
Definitely check the pivot ball caps. I had the same problem and that was it. Also I have the RPM A-arms and OEM bulkheads. I filed down the A-arms so they moved freely in the bulks with the hinge pins installed. It doesn't take alot of filing to make them move with ease like a hinge. Good luck!!
 
I will completely disagree with using any lubrication on the pivot balls.
Grease attracts dirt and will cause premature failure of the caps and scar the surface of the balls.

To tighten the caps, adjust then 1/16th of a turn at a time from a loose position until you have no play between the cap and ball. Back off the cap 1/16th just after you bet 0 play.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE CAPS. Doing this will damage the cap and allow for excessive play and an unreliable adjustments.
 

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