Starting Problem

[CrimeMasterGogo]

Hi Guys (first post! Woo Hoo)

Right I Have a HPI RS4 3 EVO. This is what I have done so far:

two tanks at static break in getting to 200*F
third tank runing on ground taking it easy, no higher then 1/4 throttle
fourth tank same as third with bit higher throttle bursts

Thats where I left it yesterday, today I was going to run it a few more tanks taking it easy then start leaning it out. I just tried to start the engine and ..... nothing :shrug: . All settings are still factory, glow plug is fine. I have checked it over and everything seems ok.
I just read a post about dirt getting into the needles, could this be where my problem lies?

Any help/suggestions greatly appreciated

 

[vbgagnon]

Welcome to the Hobby!
I would change the glow plug (they sometimes glow, but aren't good), make sure your glow ignitor is fully charged. I doubt that its dirt getting to the needles because its brand new.

Make sure fuel is making the carb, change the plug and you should be all set.

 

[CrimeMasterGogo]

Thanks for the quick reply
I have changed the glow plug and tried a brand new one in today. I will get a couple more just in case though. It really is beyond me now. It ran perfect and smooth yesterday, Shut it off, put a few drops of after run in and let it sit there till today. Today it just wont start.
Another thought I had, and something i may try after work is:

1. warm the engine with a hair dryer first?
2. lean the HSN and/or the lsn neddles out a little? Yesterday for break in it was running very rich (obviously) coiuld it be possible that its too rich to start now that the engine is a little looser?

Please excuse my copmplete noob'ness

 

[vbgagnon]

Yea you could lean it out a little bit, just don't go too far. Go 1/8 turn then try it then another 1/8 because you don't want it too lean.

 

[CrimeMasterGogo]

Ok will do that, what about the hairdryer idea? would that be any benefit? Garages in the UK get very cold this time of year lol

 

[jon2]

Just make sure you let the engine cool down at BDC, Bottom Dead Center. This will ensure longer engine life along with applying some ARO to the mill after each run.

 

[CrimeMasterGogo]

Thanks for your help guys, this issue is now resolved.
I noticed that my flywheel had come loose, so i took it all out and really tightened the flywheel nut up with blue threadlock. put it all back together and wham! started straight up. I am not too sure why a loose flywheel would actually prevent the engine starting, but who carse really (now its workin') anyone shed some light on this?. Just ran a few more tanks threw it and now i am about 1/2 turn leaner on the HSN and hitting that second gear

 

[jon2]

Make sure you let the thread lock cure. I like to let it cure overnight to make sure.

 

[parris001]

The engine wouldn't start with a loose flywheel because there's not enough enertia to keep the crank spinning. At idle a lot of power is absorbed into the flywheel and the weight of the flywheel allows the engine to idle smoothly. The heavier the flywheel the lower you can set your idle speed and keep the engine running. By contrast a lightweight flywheel has to idle faster just to keep running, but the engine accelerates much faster.

 

[jon2]

The engine wouldn't start with a loose flywheel because there's not enough enertia to keep the crank spinning. At idle a lot of power is absorbed into the flywheel and the weight of the flywheel allows the engine to idle smoothly. The heavier the flywheel the lower you can set your idle speed and keep the engine running. By contrast a lightweight flywheel has to idle faster just to keep running, but the engine accelerates much faster.

Great info!!!

 

[CrimeMasterGogo]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHH it all makes sense now. Thank you Parris.
I am on about my 10th tank of full and I have only leaned out my HSN about one full turn. Engine temps reach about 180 so i know i can stull lean out more and get plenty more power out of it yet. Although it already goes like poop off a shovel already. I was just wondering what a broken in tuned-ish engine should sound like. On a lot of vids i listen to their engines and they sound almost tight and "crackly" were as mine seems boggier with a low tone. Could tis be that i have not fully tuned the engine? or that i havnt tuned the LSN?

 

[jon2]

Be careful as you are tuning in the range of 180 degrees. I would tune slowly and break her in right. When you finally get the engine broken in then tuning for optimal performance will be come easier. IMO of course. It seemed that my old NTC3 just kept getting better and better with time.

WHat are your temps when running?

 

[CrimeMasterGogo]

temps when running reach a max of 180 thats running it fairly hard for a couple of minutes. Fully agree with you, I too feel my car getting better as time goes on. Tis is actually my second engine as I totally messed up my first engine break in :hammer:
i didnt even get to start tuning my last engine. So you can imagine my excitment right now

This time around i have been very careful and the engine feels 10000 times better

 

[Rolex]

Running temp is critical to keep it safe in the summer. In colder ambient temps the engine needs to run richer, so don't be leaning it to reach a higher temp. Adjust it for performance by how it accelerates off the line, and its' top end. Keep a trail of smoke.
As far as the sound, different engines or tuned pipe setups differ. Some humm, and some crackle.
Good luck with this break in. It sounds like you're doing this one right. Patience during this period gives you a dependable long running engine.