So I put the Picco .26 in my Revo. Well after it is to temp when I go wot then let off it cuts off. The only way it doesn't is when the idle screw is all the way in but then the idle is crazy high. What could be causing this?
-
Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀
Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!
- ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
- ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
- ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
- ✓ Share builds & upgrades
Stalling after wot
- Thread starter Foolproof
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
LBSinGTX
RCTalk Talkaholic
Maybe too lean, assuming you're getting good RPM out of it before it stalls out. Also maybe an air leak. Did you seal it up before dropping it in?
SteelCityNitro
RCTalk Addict
I had this issuse with a 3.3 motor.. I had found out it was due to linkage being adjusted too tightly. It could also be that the HSN is too lean or rich.. I do believe. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong
jschleer
RCTalk Talkaholic
Idle it up where it's not stalling anymore, then richen the LSN a little at a time until the idle comes down. There should be about a 1/16" on the carb slide at idle.
- Thread starter
- #5
Yeah the needles are good. Good smoke and shifting into 2nd and the pinch is perfect. it only does it after its warm also. I forgot to add that. I can turn my idle screw 4 turns out and it still idle but then it wont stay running at all after over 1/2 throttle. I have tried the returning the needles to factory and it didnt help.
blckrevo33
RCTalk Talkaholic
I just had a similar problem with my .26 max and i spent about 20 mins playing with the needles and nothing. then i went to start it again and it sounded weird starting so i took off the cheesey start and discovered a stuck owb. it was stuck to the engine shaft. It was doing what you described, wot and when i let off it would die instantly, so check your one way bearing.
- Thread starter
- #8
I sealed the backplate and the needles. I did not seal around where the carb goes into the motor or the pinch bolt. My buddys OS .18 he just put in is doing the same thing.
Thats the one connected to the pull start right? And would it be stuck being new? I did notice when I was doing the breakin that it would pull the starter cord back to itself. How can i fix it?
Last edited:
jschleer
RCTalk Talkaholic
Yeah, I think it's all in your tune. The picco 26 can be B!@$H when trying to find that first tune. I tried the so called "factory settings" too, and my truck wouldn't even start. Try 5 1/4 turns out on HSN and 5 3/4 turns out on the LSN. You will have to tweek a little depending on your conditions, but I used this tune to get mine and my buddies 26 max started and going for the first time. Good luck man!
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #11
5 1/4 is way way to far on my truck. The LSN is pretty close tho. The factory on settings on my hsn is 3 turns out from bottom and that is still really rich. About to go out and mess with it some more so Ill see if I can get it straightened out.
Last edited:
blckrevo33
RCTalk Talkaholic
I agree with the tune thing mine was extremely difficult to tune. i finally hit it just right one day and i havent had to tune other than a tweak here or a tweak there, according to weather. mine runs awesome at 4 3/4 out on hsn and i am about 2 turns out from flush on lsn. but i am using 30% fuel so it might different depending on fuel. I hope you get it running because it really is an awesome motor once you get it running good. It really comes to life after about a gallon and a half of fuel, at least mine did. Good luck.
Metalhead Matt
RCTalk VIP
Those engines don't really loosen up until there's close to a gallon through them. I'd clean that owb, seal the carb throat and hsn housing(bajo fitting). Then get it to run around 240-250 and take it a little easy on it. Drive it and have fun, but try to lay off long periods of wide open throttle. You could even go as far as running a tank through it, put the piston to bdc, and let the engine cool to ambient temp. Basically, keep breaking it in.
- Thread starter
- #14
Those engines don't really loosen up until there's close to a gallon through them. I'd clean that owb, seal the carb throat and hsn housing(bajo fitting). Then get it to run around 240-250 and take it a little easy on it. Drive it and have fun, but try to lay off long periods of wide open throttle. You could even go as far as running a tank through it, put the piston to bdc, and let the engine cool to ambient temp. Basically, keep breaking it in.
Well I have about 15-20 tanks thru it and it still does the same thing and I cleaned the owb yesterday. I am going to reseal the backplate and the carb tonight. I just dont get, When it is cold it wont do it at all its only when it gets to 240-250ish that it happens. I have tried the factory settings, richer, leaner and it still will do it. I can get it to not do it by turning in the lsn leaner and then slowing the idle but the motor makes a awful semi pinging sound but it still will end up doing it.
nitrocat
RCTalk Racer
When i got my picco was a bitch to tune thing gave me hell i sealed it up like crazy and checked everywhere i read on alot of sites that the engine bearings picco uses are crap i changed mine to boca front and rear and resealed it useing lucky seven sealant and thing has been runnin like a champ had alot of idle problems till i changed the bearings was well worth the 30 dollars
- Thread starter
- #16
Do you remember the bearings that you got? I wish these company's would stop doing crap like that. I would have gladly paid $30 more for this motor if it had good bearing and i didnt have to worry about leaks.
Metalhead Matt
RCTalk VIP
I've heard that bearings make all the difference. I'm sure it will be well worth your time. Is a pain though. Can you wiggle your crank at all? In any direction?
- Thread starter
- #18
I've heard that bearings make all the difference. I'm sure it will be well worth your time. Is a pain though. Can you wiggle your crank at all? In any direction?
Not that I can tell. Just ordered some Boca ceramics. Is the best way to change them using a heat gun on the motor and freezing the bearings? Thats the easiest way that I have seen.
And another question, last night I pulled the back plate off to seal it again just to be sure. I had the motor in my hand and as soon as I broke the seal on it I got a handful of nitro. I was holding the motor in my left hand, the one that got covered and it for sure didnt come from the back plate or the carb as there was no sign of nitro on either. There also was none that had ran down the motor but the flywheel, clutch, cb and all were covered. Would that have came from the front bearing?
Last edited:
nitrocat
RCTalk Racer
yup from the bearing i believe same prob i had just call bocca tell them what engine and they'll set ya up. strip the engine down to the block throw it in the oven on bout 350-400 preheated keep it in there bout 15min they should pop out easy i used a chopstick to push them out lol if they dont come loose throwem back in da oven keep the new bearings in the freezer should drop right in its really easy accually just make sure you put con rod back in right with the oil hole facing towards front bearing. try to get some Lucky Seven sealant best stuff youll ever use i love it and i dont work for them lol wooden spoon handles work good for pushin bearings out to lol dont burn yourself