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spur gears bald?

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striker

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I was running my buggy today and it ran fine for about 1 minute then just stopped moving, i noticed that the gear was almost worn out. I slid the motor over and it just finished it off. What caused it to eat the gear like that?
its the black gear on the right side.
e10.jpg


This car has not been ran very much at all. At first it would change into 2nd gear way to early, so i tried adjusting the high speed needle and it got to were it would run in first longer then die in 2nd. I need to adjust it more but i've had 2 bad servos and now a bald gear preventing me from tuning it better.
 
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Common problem is gear mesh set wrong. Too tight, too loose. Also the Engine motor mounts were not secured.

For gear mesh, use a small piece of notebook paper. It should not be a skew in any way. Being a skew means that the engine placement is incorrect. Once you find the proper mesh, tighten the motor mounts down.

To make sure the motor mounts don't come loose, remove one screw at a time and use a small dab of blue threadlock. Put the screw back in and tighten. DO this but use a cross X pattern to remove one by one not all at once or you lose the placement.

Key thing is to really let the threadlock cure.

If for any reason, when you spin your clutchbell and center diff/spur and it is super tight or rough feeling, then it changed.

Brand new or used, mesh must be checked.
 
Typically stripped gears occur due to poor gear mesh. If the engine slips a bit while running, or if it's set incorrectly at the outset, the clutch bell will shear the thinner tips of the spur. It's important to set mesh correctly to keep that from happening. I use a strip of regular notebook paper placed between the clutch bell and the spur. Push the gears together until they're tight. Tighten the engine mounting bolts. Then spin the spur to get the paper out. That should leave you with a good mesh that will leave minimal risk to the gears.

As far as shifting, you'll need to adjust the shift clutch. Adjusting the high speed needle won't affect the shifting the way you want. Adjust the hsn so that you get good solid running. Then consult the manual to accurately adjust the 2-speed to shift when you want it to.
 
So i just need to get the new spur gear, and take a piece of paper and stick it in between the plastic and aluminum gears and push them together and tighten down the motor, correct? Sorry if i seem to be an idiot but I'm pretty new to nitro cars, my first one was adjusted perfect from the factory.. My fiance crashed it so i sold it :(
 
That's pretty much what you have to do. It's pretty simple once you do it.

If you're relatively new to nitro, take some time to learn all the parts on the car. If you're confident, you could even tear the whole rig apart and put it back together. Then you'll know how everything works. And frankly at this point, to replace the spurs on a 2-speed, you're gonna be tearing a lot out of it anyway.
 
I stripped a spur gear after tearing my Revo apart and putting it back together, the mesh was too loose. I would advise buying more than 1, that way you'll have a spare in case you strip it again........like I did. It was too tight the second time around. Not sure how expensive the 2-spur gears are, but the spur for the Revo was around $4.
 
yeah always have a few spare spurs around. and make sure you use blue thread locker on your metal to metal screws
 
i have bin told by my local model shop that because the vibrations the nitro engines give off if you have a sidways shock( like drifting in2 a wall or skidding and it bites) the engine could move a bit even if all the screws are tight so it's a good idea to check the mesh after every couple of runs.
another way of checking the mesh quickly is 2 hold one and turn the other i little bit, you should be able to feel a bit of play but not see it. is this way anygood?
 
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