spur gear

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Kr0niK

RCTalk Racer
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RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Long day.... drove 10 minutes each way twice to my bash spot and maybe got about 50 feet of total driving in. To make matters worse only about 5 feet of that was under my control. First visit my electronics just died, shook loose a wire inside the on/off switch and then just decided to go on a little hike by itself. Fixed that and went back only to screw up my spur gear before it even got going.

I have zero luck with spur gears and its starting to bug me. I've only been out about 5-6 times and 3 spur gears gone. I search, I read, I've tried all the suggestions and nothing works for me. Full tight and 1/8 turn back, or 1/4 both end up burning out the center of the gear. Full tight and the teeth break.

Are there any other options for a slipper on a t-maxx? Like a full plate instead of just the two small ones? I saw this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSGN1&P=7 but it says 1st gen trans only. Is that .15 versions only? Then there's this http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBJC7&P=7 which says it mounts to the engine?

I'm staying away from the metal ones since I'd rather have a $3 weak link in the drive train but this is getting frustrating.
 
What engine are you running? Poor mesh or loose screws are the most common spur killers. Also have you checked the rest of the drive train to make sure there is no binding elsewhere causing extra stress on the slipper?
 
I'm running a OS .18tm

All screws tight and accounted for.

Drive train is brand new and bind free. Only been on there a week or two.

Since I'm having such issues with my spur, I check the mesh often, as well as the engine/tranny screws.
 
Nope, but then again it was used with a sirio .18 in it before when I baught it. It's a 20t bell, don't know the pitch.
 
How many pins are you using? If only six, try using all 12 with the tight then back off 1/8 setting. If you already have all 12, then I'm out of ideas for the night. Maybe someone else will step in with something. Running the .18 with plastic spur shouldn't be a problem.
 
Only using 6 pegs right now. I checked the lhs today and they don't have any. I was going to try that.

Any opinions on the setups that I posted first?
 
You didn't happen to switch clutchbells did you? Just wondering since there are different gear pitches.

I would check this also if you bought it used. The guy migh not have known what he was doing.
I have had .18's in my tmaxx 2.5's and have never had to run 12 pegs.
Just take the bell off and see how smooth the mesh is with just you rolling it alone the spur buy hand . If any resistance The pitch is off.


"I'm staying away from the metal ones since I'd rather have a $3 weak link in the drive train but this is getting frustrating."

Very good idea!!! This is why they make them so cheap
.
 
Well the cb and spur mesh well. I think the pitch is fine.

I don't know, I've got the pegs coming so I guess I'll see how that goes.

I take it by the lack of opinions on the different slipper setups that they are a bad idea?
 
Well the cb and spur mesh well. I think the pitch is fine.

I don't know, I've got the pegs coming so I guess I'll see how that goes.

I take it by the lack of opinions on the different slipper setups that they are a bad idea?

I can't really give you an opinion, I've never used them nor do I know anyone that has.
 
Fair enough, hope someone who sees this has known someone who's used them.
 
My friend has the S .25 from HPI and he has always ran a plastic spur and it hasnt failed yet.
 
Well...since somebody....has to stick up for the steel spur gear.
I went through like 5 plastic spur gears in a couple of months(bad driving..etc..), so I bought a RR spur and bell and read here how to set the mesh on it. I've beat the living heck out the truck and haven't had a problem with the drivetrain at all. When I took the tranny apart recently to install the FOC all the teeth looked like brand new.
Maybe I'm not trying hard enough to trash it...lol
 
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