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spur gear

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C

chevelle

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Location
Bucyrus, OH
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
:angry:i sheared off the teeth on the 47T tranny gear! all i did was put a piece of tubing on the shaft to make the breaks better. so what did i do wrong:ponder2: is there an upgrade part for the gear? do i need to take that tubing off? i seen this trick on the forum here.
 
The only way the tubing would even remotely cuase the spur issue is if it were dragging the brakes hard and you have a hopped up engine. I'd say the tubing was coincidental.

Did the engine mounts work loose? Or check the engine plate for cracks.
 
Racer 1966 said:
The only way the tubing would even remotely cuase the spur issue is if it were dragging the brakes hard and you have a hopped up engine. I'd say the tubing was coincidental.

Did the engine mounts work loose? Or check the engine plate for cracks.
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i dont see anything wrong with the mounts or plate:\
 
The gear mesh may have been off. You never know how long/when it'll go if it is. Only thing you can do is put a new gear on and be carefull setting the mesh. MAke sure the gears a parallel and if you hold one still the other should have a very slight wiggle.

A lot people use the paper test to check it. Take a thin strip and rotate it throuh the gears. You should get a crisp stair step with no rips.
 
can you send my a link to where i can get a steel gear? does it have to be a 47T?

thought i would post a pic of it.
 

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I have a metal one but i think I'm gona keep useing plastic ones. I think they are better.
 
well yall got me curious now. I just converted over to a steel racing gear and the only issue i seem to have is the screws working loose (Yes I used Locktight, but they still slowly back off). Why the prefernce for the plastic gears?
 
well think i will stay with plastic for now. so whats all involved in putting the new one on?
 
It's simple actually. If you have enough room between the engine and the spur, just take off the nut and spring holding the old on in place and remove the old spur. Make sure you put the clutch pad on the new gear, slide it onto the shaft, put your spring in place and tighten the nut until it stops. Back off the nut 1/4 turn and your done.

Now if your engine doesn't allow this, remove the 4 mounting screws from under the mounting plate that holds your engine in place, remove the engine and then follow the instructions up above. When re-installing the engine, slide it into place and use a small sliver of standerd printer paper between the clutch bell and spur. Tighten your engine mount bolts and spin the spur to remove the paper. You should have a tiny bit of play if you hold the clutch bell and try to more the spur. All set :D
 
griemar said:
well yall got me curious now. I just converted over to a steel racing gear and the only issue i seem to have is the screws working loose (Yes I used Locktight, but they still slowly back off). Why the prefernce for the plastic gears?
Click to expand...

I preferably stay with plastic because if your mesh is messed up there, it will transfer down the tranny line and damage something else. It's best to keep the spur gear the weakest point since it's cheapest to fix and easier to access. I'd probably upgrade to delrin though after finding the perfect mesh.
 
ohmygahitscoby said:
I preferably stay with plastic because if your mesh is messed up there, it will transfer down the tranny line and damage something else. It's best to keep the spur gear the weakest point since it's cheapest to fix and easier to access. I'd probably upgrade to delrin though after finding the perfect mesh.
Click to expand...

Hmm, i honestly never thought of that. Good point! I guess I'll go buy stock in spur gears then. I seem to be a tad rough on those plastic ones, thus why i upgraded to the steel.
 
If you have steel and you've been fine with it, you can keep it. You just need to make sure you keep a perfect mesh. But it's safe to stay with plastic in case of engine movement or a crack in the plate. If you like how your mesh is now, then you can go ahead and switch to a delrin gear like I said. Delrin is very strong, almost equivalent to a metal gear.
 
:ponder2:I been double checking it before each run. If I'm running at the park I seem to eat up the plastic spurs, maybe because of the high grass? Maybe I'll just run them when I'm driving on the street here. :ponder2:
 
It can also be because your slipper gear is set too tight. I agree about the high grass. My spur gear (Was metal when I bought it ) completely ate up my CB when running in the grass. You want to make sure that it's not set too tight and that you are running a hardened CB.
 
everything from my CB up to the dog bones is all "racing" setup. I have the slotted CB, steel spur, 3 speed tranny. now as far as if the CB is hardened, I'm unsure, but I would think so. I keep my slipper set at about a 1/4 back. any tighter and I can't keep the front end down, any looser and I spin the nut off. Maybe a slightly higher ratio may work also. hmmm.
 
Ha, today I stripped my plastic spur and all I had was a metal one so I put it on. Just gota b cafeful til I get a few new plastic ones.
 
griemar said:
:ponder2:I been double checking it before each run. If I'm running at the park I seem to eat up the plastic spurs, maybe because of the high grass? Maybe I'll just run them when I'm driving on the street here. :ponder2:
Click to expand...

i was running in the grass when my spur grear took a crap:(
 
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