Spur gear

[holly nitro]

I replaced the spur with a metal one but the lock nut seems to not reach the lock part is this normal? Do I need some lock tight? The plastic gear only has one pad the metal one has two so the spacing is different. I'm hoping this works I stripped two spurs in 3 days and the pads just don't hold up.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Okay...so if you keep stripping spur gears, the material is not the problem. Probably what you don't want to hear...but that is fact. I run metal/metal on many of my vehicles and plastic/metal on many of them. I've yet to strip the plastic spur on my Savage. I cannot answer your question about the metal spur gear---but if you keep stripping plastic ones, there is an underlying problem. Adding steel will just cause burrs in your metal spur gear AND clutch bell. Loosing mesh on metal/metal is nasty. Trust me. ;-)

 

[holly nitro]

Iv just relized this as the bearings just went out.. and the teeth on the clutch bell just got chewed up not horrable but if this continues it will result is a new bell any recomandations???

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Are you referencing your clutch bell bearings? That is something you probably want to change every 10 tanks (at a minimum) as they wear very quickly.

Or...are you referencing the bearings in the transmission? Understand...I am not a Savage expert (yet) but I do know gear mesh. No one else answered you, so thought I'd step in. ;-)

 

[holly nitro]

Clutch bell bearings trans bearing r fine but the clutch bell bearings r completly gone GONE crinkled the metal case and started to strip the bell gear so I parked it is plastic better how do u adjust gear mesh perfectly as I seem to find this a bit difficult. Just a loose spin and good contact right?

---------- Post added at 12:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:47 AM ----------

Sorry about puncuation got excited someone responded

 

[Nitro Nerd]

Clutch bell bearings trans bearing r fine but the clutch bell bearings r completly gone GONE crinkled

And there's your problem. ;-) I'll send you a PM with information on setting your mesh. Just keep an eye on your clutch bearings. If they are wearing quickly, then your shim is not set up correctly....as you should get at least 10 tanks if your shim is set up correctly--regardless of how cheap the bearings are. ;-)

 

[holly nitro]

The shims how do I know how many I need? and the video is super slow to buffer this has been an on going issue ever since I stripped the firat slipper gear PLASTIC I thought metal would be better now the bearings does it ever stop? I set the mesh loose but I think the bearings were going anyway. The plastic gears r ok but the inside of the slipper disc gets stripped (the notches the slipper pads sit on or around) just gets chewed up. It will run but just slips and slips the nut is a half turn loose but it can't get enought speed to shift so it just burns it all up

 

[Nitro Nerd]

The shims how do I know how many I need? and the video is super slow to buffer this has been an on going issue ever since I stripped the firat slipper gear PLASTIC I thought metal would be better now the bearings does it ever stop? I set the mesh loose but I think the bearings were going anyway. The plastic gears r ok but the inside of the slipper disc gets stripped (the notches the slipper pads sit on or around) just gets chewed up. It will run but just slips and slips the nut is a half turn loose but it can't get enought speed to shift so it just burns it all up

Assuming you are running stock CB w/stock bearings w/stock clutch...the same shims should work. In fact, I think the Savage CB is the easiest to shim that I've tried. Ideally there should be a .5mm of play. Some like more, some less...but that is what I've found to keep bearings from binding.

Regarding the slipper clutch, I've not had much experience with it, as noted I'm used to a center diff. ;-) However, I'm rebuilding my Savage now and am about to learn about it. My neighbor just got a Savage. He has maybe 1/2 gallons through it, and he suddenly stripped his spur. I mean it was chewed up like I've never seen. He said the spur just "stopped moving". Who knows, I told him to take it off and I'll look at it (probably tonight). My point is that if you are continuing to strip your plastic, I can't see how a steel one will solve the issue. I've got almost 2 gallons through mine and have not touched the slipped clutch and the spur is fine. So there is an underlying issue you need to take care of. I hope this makes sense. At worst, in a few days I'll have gone through his (and mine during its rebuild) and I'll have better insight.

---------- Post added at 8:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:34 PM ----------

One other note....you noted your tranmission is not shifting anymore in a previous post, correct? That could be part of the problem. My neighbor's "stopped shifting" as well, so that could be something. I doubt the fact it's not shifting causes it, but some internal part is not working properly.

Finally, regarding mesh...forget the paper-trick. It's worthless IMO. All you want to do is listen to and feel for "the tick". ie. You should have the least amount of play your can get, while still having play. Just hold the spur while you move the bell (or vice-versa) and you should feel/hear a llittle "tick". From there just give it the roll test and if it sounds good...it is. Of course ensure you thread lock the engine mount screws.

 

[holly nitro]

The second gear set screw was way loose so I think it was already in second when it was starting plus the pads slipping I dunno this hobbie is costly as I'm beginning to figure out luckly I paid 200 for the truck its a 2013 modlile it was almost brand new just broke in I put a quart through it ran vreat till I hit the sand then..... all this stuff

---------- Post added at 1:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 1:44 AM ----------

Anyway let me know what u figure out it would be great help

 

[Nitro Nerd]

[/COLOR]Anyway let me know what u figure out it would be great help

Will do. And yes, this hobby is expensive, and if you run your vehicles hard (and a Savage SHOULD be run hard)...there is almost always going to be something. You just have to figure out that problem and ensure it will never happen again. That's just how nitro rc go. The good news is, with something like the Savage, there are solutions abound. The Savage is not as durable as a lot of people make it out to be. Don't get me wrong, it is one of the most fun vehicles to drive--I mean it is wicked--but to make it truly beast you just have to tweak the design some.

Case in point, I keep loosing hinge pins on my Savage, One of the a-arms cracked, so getting some RPM ones. Also looking to get some 01 tool steel tapered hinge pins that I can lock with nylon nuts around the bulkhead braces.

 

[holly nitro]

That's 150 the lowers all the way around are 150 but come with everything ur lookin for

 

[Snook Man]

Are you referencing your clutch bell bearings? That is something you probably want to change every 10 tanks (at a minimum) as they wear very quickly.

I would quit nitro rc if I only got 10 tanks of run time on my clutch bell bearings. $1.00 avid bearings last me 3 gallons on average.

If you need to change the bearings around 10 tanks your doing something wrong.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

I would quit nitro rc if I only got 10 tanks of run time on my clutch bell bearings. $1.00 avid bearings last me 3 gallons on average.

If you need to change the bearings around 10 tanks your doing something wrong.

Oh. Okay.

One follow up, and please realize I'm not trying to get in a pissing match as I'm sure you don't care what I believe just as I don't what you do. I just want to ensure people on here get sound advice,.

Absolutely I recommend changing bearings every 10 tanks (especially on a Savage!). Of course I would love for you to tell me what you think I'm doing wrong. I think you'll find a lot (if not all) the top/drivers/mechanics/designers/engineers in this hobby change bearings after every race. There is a reason they do this: bearings progressively wear. It might not make a huge difference, and absolutely they are cheap (I've tried cheap and expensive). I see nothing wrong in ENSURING that my clutch bearings--which are in one of the most hostile environments than most all other bearings--are smooth at all times. To me it's short-work. The ones I use are just a bit better than stock, but not by much. I buy in bulk and pay probably pay a buck per.

What's nice is that I am able to recycle the ones I replaced. I'll clean them once and then re-use in a cycle. You see, by keeping them always maintained, which includes a lot of variables including clutch setup/shimming, I am confident that area of the power-train is doing what it should--the best it possibly can.

That is my reasoning. Again--disagree and state your case, man. This website is about learning so just want to go on record I highly recommend changing your bearings (even with cheap ones) as often as possible. It only helps. ;-)

 

[Cornholio]

I would quit nitro rc if I only got 10 tanks of run time on my clutch bell bearings. $1.00 avid bearings last me 3 gallons on average.

If you need to change the bearings around 10 tanks your doing something wrong.

This. I've only changed my clutch bell bearings twice in the past several years, they should last you quite a long time. Having said that, I take them out every gallon or so and give them a good cleaning.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

They (clutch bearings) should last you quite a long time.

We'll have to agree to disagree on this one, then. Clutch bearings are not made to last quite a long time. Understand there is a difference between 'working' and 'working like it should'. Think in terms of engine tuning. You can tune it, it works, but that does not mean it's tuned like it should be.

The idea is not to run bearings until they fall apart...especially clutch bearings that take massive abuse. The idea behind bearings is to keep them running as smoothly as possible. So I stand by my statement that it's a well-known best practice (and rightfully so) to change them out extremely often, at least in the racing scene. Don't see why bashing would be any different. Again--not trying to get in a heated debate over this (I know it can seem that way on forums such as this), simply providing my beliefs, as are you.

Anyway, back to the OP....obviously do as you please, but just know there is at least one guy on here recommending you change them every 10 tanks....or at a minimum check them. If they feel gritty (and they will), change them. ;-)

 

[Cornholio]

No worries Nitro Nerd, I dont get upset over a difference of opinion. I've never been a racer, only a basher.

 

[Nitro Nerd]

No worries Nitro Nerd, I dont get upset over a difference of opinion. I've never been a racer, only a basher.

Cool. BTW, one is never "only a basher"...;-) I love bashing as much as racing. I personally think racing is much more demanding on a vehicle, but there is nothing like jumping a Savage over a fence. Ha!

 

[Snook Man]

Oh. Okay.

One follow up, and please realize I'm not trying to get in a pissing match as I'm sure you don't care what I believe just as I don't what you do. I just want to ensure people on here get sound advice,.

Absolutely I recommend changing bearings every 10 tanks (especially on a Savage!). Of course I would love for you to tell me what you think I'm doing wrong. I think you'll find a lot (if not all) the top/drivers/mechanics/designers/engineers in this hobby change bearings after every race. There is a reason they do this: bearings progressively wear. It might not make a huge difference, and absolutely they are cheap (I've tried cheap and expensive). I see nothing wrong in ENSURING that my clutch bearings--which are in one of the most hostile environments than most all other bearings--are smooth at all times. To me it's short-work. The ones I use are just a bit better than stock, but not by much. I buy in bulk and pay probably pay a buck per.

What's nice is that I am able to recycle the ones I replaced. I'll clean them once and then re-use in a cycle. You see, by keeping them always maintained, which includes a lot of variables including clutch setup/shimming, I am confident that area of the power-train is doing what it should--the best it possibly can.

That is my reasoning. Again--disagree and state your case, man. This website is about learning so just want to go on record I highly recommend changing your bearings (even with cheap ones) as often as possible. It only helps. ;-)

I don’t know whom you race with but I and many other experienced racers I race with do not change our clutch bell bearings until it’s necessary.
Yes, a CB bearing can go out in very short time just like any other bearing; I’ve seen CB bearings last less than a tank of fuel if not shimmed correctly, meshed too tight or someone pulling too tall a gear ratio and heating the clutch/bell up to the point the grease/oil cooks out of the bearings.
Most of the guys I run with, either racing or bashing will burn through 20 tanks of fuel in a weekend on the track. CB bearings are probably the most reliable bearings on our rigs as a whole and I honestly do not even think about them until they have seen a couple of gallons of run time. I can’t even remember the last time I saw someone change CB bearings at the track but most often see wheel bearings and diff bearings changed on a regular basis.
CB bearings take less abuse than wheel/diff bearings; you can change them at 10 tanks if you want there’s nothing wrong with that. I personally will keep running them until they need to be changed, which in my experience is usually a few gallons more than 10 tanks.

I also do not “recycle” bearings as you put it. I throw them out and replace with new.
I also would like to know your reasoning as to why you stated to change bearings every 10 gallons “(especially on a Savage!)”. Why is a savage clutch any different than any other clutch?

 

[Alexander_0_1]

I only change mine when I notice the protective dust cap on one or either side of the bearings coming off, but I'm constantly changing the little brass shim/bushing.