SportsWerks Mayhem ST truggy build

[Certified Mike]

Your glow plug may just be poop but neither way, both the igniter and plugs are a cheap replacement. If the igniter is working intermittently, I would just can it and start fresh. That's one of those things that would drive me berserk!!!

Just a thought, when charging anything, when it's warm, it's ok... Hot is no good.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Yooooooo! It just started I will try to make the video

 

[Certified Mike]

NICE!!! Looking forward to seeing it, and many to come!
Did you figure out what the issue was? Igniter or plug? Or were you just lucky and it all came together?

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

NICE!!! Looking forward to seeing it, and many to come!
Did you figure out what the issue was? Igniter or plug? Or were you just lucky and it all came together?

Igniter just wasn't charged enough. But that was the only start i got. I spent so much time on it that suddenly my tank was empty and I didn't even start it for 5 seconds. Do I need to touch the idle yet?

 

[Certified Mike]

I can't imagine what could be happening that you went thru a whole tank that quickly. If that is the case, there is Definitely something wrong! Get your igniter charged up and get it running but make a video of what it is doing. That would be the best way we could try to identify the issues and help you out.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

I can't imagine what could be happening that you went thru a whole tank that quickly. If that is the case, there is Definitely something wrong! Get your igniter charged up and get it running but make a video of what it is doing. That would be the best way we could try to identify the issues and help you out.

No problem, btw it is a dynamite mach 2 .26 with the blue cooling head

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

What a late post....... Well i finally got it on. Now..... Time for a new igniter, the car is fine, the engine is fine. The igniter has some kind of shortage, cause it doesn't start my other engines.

 

[Certified Mike]

Ah... Glad to see you worked it out! Looking forward to hearing good results!

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

.

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Sorry I tried to post a video and it didn't work out... The car is running at the moment after tampering with tuning needles ha ha.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Here, I have it up on youtube

 

[Certified Mike]

I did see the video.I can only watch from my phone but from what I saw, you Def want to get the low needle a lil higher. The reason I say this is because it LOOKS like you've not got enough smoke coming from the exhaust. HOWEVER... There appears to be a lot of oil on the ground... There are a couple things that would help me to see better as well as to likely help you out... Get the wheels on this thing! Seeing it roll in comparison to the rpms would help me to see better what it is doing. It will help you by keeping air moving across your AIR COOLED engine!
I would really like to know what your engine temps are. There are a few different theories with engine temp and tuning. While I don't think tuning should be based solely on the temp, it is very helpful on getting things close and keeping SAFE! Overheating is NOT good!!! If you don't already have one, put a digital thermometer on the 'buy now' list!!
Has this engine been broken in? If not, you MUST do this!
There are a couple threads that you REALLY want to read and LEARN! Full of things that every nitro person should know well! Parts worth printing out and sticking on the inside lid of your tool box!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-rc-beginners-guide.68224/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/glow-plugs-dos-donts-tech-and-tips.113922/#post-1111694

Learn this stuff!!! I mean REALLY learn it! It's good info! It will help you avoid headaches and make diagnosis easier. There are 2 different break in methods. I opt for the 'driving at low speeds' style vs the 'heat and cool' method but both work.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

I did see the video.I can only watch from my phone but from what I saw, you Def want to get the low needle a lil higher. The reason I say this is because it LOOKS like you've not got enough smoke coming from the exhaust. HOWEVER... There appears to be a lot of oil on the ground... There are a couple things that would help me to see better as well as to likely help you out... Get the wheels on this thing! Seeing it roll in comparison to the rpms would help me to see better what it is doing. It will help you by keeping air moving across your AIR COOLED engine!
I would really like to know what your engine temps are. There are a few different theories with engine temp and tuning. While I don't think tuning should be based solely on the temp, it is very helpful on getting things close and keeping SAFE! Overheating is NOT good!!! If you don't already have one, put a digital thermometer on the 'buy now' list!!
Has this engine been broken in? If not, you MUST do this!
There are a couple threads that you REALLY want to read and LEARN! Full of things that every nitro person should know well! Parts worth printing out and sticking on the inside lid of your tool box!

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-rc-beginners-guide.68224/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/glow-plugs-dos-donts-tech-and-tips.113922/#post-1111694

Learn this stuff!!! I mean REALLY learn it! It's good info! It will help you avoid headaches and make diagnosis easier. There are 2 different break in methods. I opt for the 'driving at low speeds' style vs the 'heat and cool' method but both work.

Ok thanks, usually when I normally break in stuff I just put it on a stand and lower the idle on the controller to keep it from falling off by vibration. I use the hand method to make sure it's not over heating. I just place my hand on the.cooling head. Also this car comes with a fuel filter but it cuts off at high speed when I use it. (Tried the fuel filter on my redcat vertex .16 engine) thanks, I will keep people posted, it starts up easily but I haven't used till I could charge my drill battery :/

Ok thanks, usually when I normally break in stuff I just put it on a stand and lower the idle on the controller to keep it from falling off by vibration. I use the hand method to make sure it's not over heating. I just place my hand on the.cooling head. Also this car comes with a fuel filter but it cuts off at high speed when I use it. (Tried the fuel filter on my redcat vertex .16 engine) thanks, I will keep people posted, it starts up easily but I haven't used till I could charge my drill battery :/

I put it on wheels, now the next time I have it on I will post it. Also I need to put a controller on it

 

[Certified Mike]

Lol! Yeah, that would help too!

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Lol! Yeah, that would help too!

I had it on wheels but no vid

I had it on wheels but no vid

Oops I sent that wrong.... Anyway



Hay guys, I didn't post a video but BOY IT IS SCARY FAST, IT IS ALREdy GOING AS FAST AS MY OFNA .28, and I never put it on full throttle yet!!!!, this car is scary fast and I MEAN IT. The brakes sure works at some points but mostly not at all. Then it locks when I roll the car backwards. I ended up using the brakes to turn the car off and I turn left and right to slow the car down. The steering servo is very stiff after putting a receiver to it.... And I'm using odonnald fuel (spelled correctly?) And the car runs better and idles good not very good. I will post a vid probably tomorrow.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

OK, Heres a video of it running. Not in the air but driving!, It is cutting off at low speed if i let go of the throttle so maybe i need to lean it since it is flushed already? And sorry but i am running on a very rich tune and was too lazy to change it till after the video...

lol, And no there is no brake response if you noticed

 

[Certified Mike]

Let's go back a few steps to start... Have you verified that there is no linkage hanging up and that the servo is moving smothly they the whole sweep?
Going back to carb settings... Get your idle gap set correctly. It should be set at about 1mm. You can use a 1mm Allen key if you've got no gapping tools. Make sure it is set correctly as your very first carb adjustment! Let's see where this takes the rest of the setting and how it runs.

 

[Mr.MadfireMoe]

Let's go back a few steps to start... Have you verified that there is no linkage hanging up and that the servo is moving smothly they the whole sweep?
Going back to carb settings... Get your ideal gap set correctly. It should be set at about 1mm. You can use a 1mm Allen key if you've got no gapping tools. Make sure it is set correctly as your very first carb adjustment! Let's see where this takes the rest of the setting and how it runs.

ok

ok

Yes all links are attached firmly. The carb does need adjusting so i will get to it.

 

[Certified Mike]

While you are checking everything, be sure that your brakes aren't hanging up anything involving the throttle as well. Let us know how it goes.

Be sure the air filter is nice and clean, and oiled correctly as well.

 

[Certified Mike]

Just caught my auto-full/correct mistake...I want you to check and adjust your IDLE GAP! Ideal gap?!?!?! Wtf?!?!? Sorry about that!