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Some problems with my revo 2.5R

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Flat head screwdriver always works for me. Just point it so the clip hits something (like a board) and drops. I've probably got 20 of those damn things laying around in some corner of my workshop 'cause I snap it out and PING, off it goes!

heard of optidrive's going Tango Uniform before
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Speak English, fly boy!
 
Okay, I think i'll try it one more time with the forward and reverse. If it brakes again i'll just go forward only.

Anyway, since the car's engine is tuned good, what should I upgrade next? As in means of more power, more stability. Better exhaust? Maybe some aluminum parts? All these plastic arms seem a little week for going off 5 foot jumps, I already had to buy all aluminum push rods since one of them broke at the threads after going off a 5 or 6 foot jump.

Would a carbon fiber chassis really make the car go faster? Would it be stronger or weaker than whats there right now?
Like this for example -> http://www.vantageracing.com/site/v2-images/images/RE0302.jpg

Is this even worth getting? Or is it not worth removing braking from the front?
http://www.2coolrc.com/detail.aspx?ID=279

Sorry for posting so many questions, just want to get the best out of my revo :).

Thanks!
 
Maybe some aluminum parts?
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No, never, not advisable...in that order!

If you're looking to waste money, buy aluminum! Aluminum bends, but unlike plastic, it will not flex back and costs twice as much, my man!

Best advice, to toughen the rig up, is RPM or Tekno RC arms and hub carriers. I personally have RPM on all four corners of my Revo, haven't broken an arm yet. I'm just waiting for a good excuse to get the RPM hub carriers as well, but frankly, the stockers are working just fine.

If you're looking for speed, I'm not sure the chassis is where you'll find it. I can't really comment on the CF chassis, other than it can get pretty expensive. I'd try different gearing before plunking a lot of money on a CF chassis. If you have the stock pipe on the engine, try either a Trinity or Traxxas Resonator pipe to wake that engine up a bit!

Check out the Revo Resources forum for some ideas on speeding that sucker up, but whatever you do, STAY AWAY FROM THE ALUMINUM (at least for arms and hub carriers).
 
CF chassis is nice, expensive, but not to bad. Just need to watch what mill you end up dropping in there and watch the bracing around the engine mount. RPM is the way to go for arms and hub carriers. While they are not 100% indestructible they do have a lifetime warranty. The hubs have the oversized bearing which is great especially if you plan to run larger wheels and tires with the 23mm hubs. Wanna do something, ditch the dual servo's for the steering and get one good one. You end up with more torque from one good quality servo than the two and you'll extend you battery life. Check your gearing set up, mainly the clutchbell and spur, 16/38 is a pretty good race setup. Get lunsford Ti pushrods, the aluminum Traxxas ones suck! The Traxxas Tubes for the toe links however are good and completely different.

Monkey, Tango Uniform is phonetic for T U which was the nice way of saying....tits up! or dead
 
Okay, well, I guess I can't get that ring thing off with a flat head, I can't see how to did it!

Also those little plastic rings are a pain, I keep on losin them.. I have to go buy more becasue I lost one :(.

I was also wonder what tires would be best for snow, and what not to do while driving the car in it.
 
Waterproof and seal everything. Use plasti-dip or liquid electrical tape on the servo's and put the rcvr in a balloon and ty-wrap it. You'll also want to wrap the head in something so it will help retain heat. Tires, not sure kinda depends if it's packed or loose and fine.

As far as your issue with the gears, not sure what you are talking about. Can you post a pic?
 
Well, I finally got the part and it runs fine. I really think it was the spur gear that was the main problem.

Right now I have another problem with my other truck. It's a Revo 2.5 body and parts except with a 3.3 engine in it. This thing burns through glow plugs like nothing! The engine temperture runs around 250 with excellent performance. After every run I have to replace the glow plug and it's beginning to cost me.

Anyone got any ideas? Too lean?
 
What's the plug look like when you pull it out. Oily? Too rich. Shiny, bright? Too lean. The plug and button should have a nice goldish tint to it.
 
I was running hot plugs, and I guess richining it fixed the problem. I justed the plug out in my 2.5r but i'll just wait till saturday for another one my friends got.

Anyway, if I wanted a good big performance increase, what engine should I get?
What kit would I need?
 
The 3.3 is a good mill, though I still think the OS 18TM has a little on it and a TZ has an edge on the TM. The TM is a direct drop in.
 
That is a big block. Its not a direct drop in. You would need to buy a big block conversion kit. IMO you don't need any more power then a tm or a 3.3 will give you. Any faster then either of those two mill get you will be uncrollable and things will start breaking.
 
You'll have to shop around on the price, man. As to best, it's really an opinion call. The TZ will require some modification to make it work (I think you have to cut the crank) so you may want to consider that into your buying decision. You can use Traxxas' engine swap program and get a 3.3 for cheap.

I have the TM, which is a direct-drop right out of the box. May want to consider that as well.

Do a little research and see what fits your budget.
 
The tm, you will need a starter box. The 3.3 can be had for about $150, and the TM is about $220.
 
Monkey Wrench said:
You can use Traxxas' engine swap program and get a 3.3 for cheap.
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How would I go about doing this, if I can get the engine for under 200$ that'd be awesome :).
 
Check Traxxas' web site.


The tm, you will need a starter box.
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In my best boss-guy-from-"Office Space" voice, "Right, well I'm going to have to disagree with you there."

There is a pull start you can put on it (I believe Olds_97 has it on his), and the E-Z Start plate will bolt right on. Additionally, a rotostart backplate will fit as well. :whistle:
 
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