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Some problems with my revo 2.5R

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Monkey,

Just wanted to jump in and say that I am learning more from your replies than I ever did in the book. ;)

I start my own thread here when I get a chance and klet you give me some pointers on my ride.

Thanks for being a contributor!!!

TalonOne
 
Okay, next question.

Instead of using 1-2 feet of tubin for the gas line, can I just use like 6 inches of tubing? I wanted to know becasue I got this thick tubing. And wouldn't a longer tube use more gas then a smaller one?
 
I am no expert......but I have always gotten the advice that the long tube was to help keepo the engine running during flip overs and such...so the mort the merrier.

And everybody says to coil it up and tuck it away somewhere.....preferably above the fuel intake to take advantage of gravity.


My 2 cents.

TalonOne
 
TalonOne said:
I am no expert......but I have always gotten the advice that the long tube was to help keepo the engine running during flip overs and such...so the mort the merrier.

And everybody says to coil it up and tuck it away somewhere.....preferably above the fuel intake to take advantage of gravity.


My 2 cents.

TalonOne
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Well, thanks for the compliment above, but there truly are many more members here that have forgotten more than I know! Jetmech, Revo Rancher, Plaidfish, Old97, vbgagnon, Beason, Bustedgears and every single moderator all know their stuff! I pick up something new everyday I'm on here!

Erix, TalonOne is dead-on! You can run your rig with 6" of fuel line with no ill affects, but as soon as it lands on the lid, chances are it'll flame out. Having the extra fuel line also prevents any chance of the engine leaning out as the fuel level in the tank drops by keeping the pressure relatively constant. If you have the room, use the fuel line but don't believe you have to tuck 14' of it in there either. About a 12"-18" is plenty of fuel line.

Good luck!
 
Pics of fuel setup...

This is the way I do it.....the pics are not very detailed.....but if you look hard you can see the fuel line up on the cage zipped there so it drops to the engine....constant pressure..

Later TalonOne
 

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Way Too Much!!!!

Well....we usually dont speak of such things.....especially when my wife is around..;)

I have a bit of cash tied up there....I set out to just have one truck ....ya know ...lost youth thing so I bought a Rustler electric....nice little truck.

The Revo just jumped in the cart on a visit to the local Hobby store.

I then discovered the warehouse frull of hop ups available for the revo and my credit card has never been the same.

It really has turned into a great time....my boys love driving it and watching me crash it....I justify it to myself that way....family time and all..

So if you must know .....someplace north of $1500 all told.......

I have owned used cars that cost me less to get into and less to maintain.


But it is all for the fun of it right....can you put a price on that...????


Later
TalonOne
 
I was looking at engines for next year, and I saw that AXIAL had some decent engines. I was wondering if I should get a expensive small block, or for the same price, get a big block.

What would I need to do to my car if I used a big block? Longer chassis, wider wheel base?

I was looking at this one -> http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=2955
 
That one will require the big block kit I bedlieve......

You migh tconsider the drop ins like the Picco .26 max drop in.....just needs a new middle part of the mount.

I have the .21 getting dialed in and I love it ....wish I would have held out for the .26 thou.....the LHS only had the .21 at the moment and I needed an engine while Traxxas fixed mine...the 3.3 should be back Monday.

Not sure if I should keep the picco in or rebreak in the 3.3?? Oh well.

Later TalonOne
 
Well, what about the small block one? If they're the same pretty much, except for ports and stuff, shouldn't I get the small block?
 
Hmm I am no expert......but I wish I would have stepped up to a "big Block"...that fit the revo....(.26, .28, .30 ).......because for all of the hassle of basically rebuilding the truck ...I could have had a bit more power......remember it does not end with the engine....alll of the parts around it will need upgrading or securing .....based on the new found POWER..;)

I had mine running so fast and wild this weekend that I snapped the cage mounts right of in 15 tumble, end over end crash at 60 plus miles an hour........so you have to consider that when thinking to upgrade the power plant.......you have to be able to control it n the end....

TalonOne
 
Well, I only have a little .15 engine, and the small block and big block have the same power. Except with the big block you need to buy the conversion kit. With the small block you just need the special mount.
 
Well, today was my engines final day. I was driving down the street then I hear the engine rev up extremely high, and the car wasn't moving that it just locked up. I took it inside eager to find out the problem, sure enough when I opened the engine the piston rod was snapped right off the crankshaft. There was pieces of my carburetor in there too.

So now, I'm looking for a good roll cage and engine solution. I know people have already made recommendations, but if possible a strong engine better than a 3.3trx, along with the parts i'll possibly need.

Or should I just go pickup a used engine? What do you guys think?
 
OS .18TM. Direct drop, so no conversion kit or special mounts needed. Use your existing flywheel and clutch and clutchbell, but I'd suggest using a new collet.
 
I would use my old fly wheel if I could get it off! I take all the screws out and the the crankcase and the flywheel in opposite directions and still nothing. Anyway, these seems like a decent price. Maybe i'll have to try it out.
 
erix920 said:
I would use my old fly wheel if I could get it off! I take all the screws out and the the crankcase and the flywheel in opposite directions and still nothing. Anyway, these seems like a decent price. Maybe i'll have to try it out.
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There aren't any screws that hold the flywheel on. Take the clutchbell off, remove the clutch shoes, take the clutch nut off and it should slide off. If not, get a rubber mallet and hit it from the rear. Sometimes you have to finese them off!
 
Monkey Wrench said:
There aren't any screws that hold the flywheel on. Take the clutchbell off, remove the clutch shoes, take the clutch nut off and it should slide off. If not, get a rubber mallet and hit it from the rear. Sometimes you have to finese them off!
Click to expand...


Bigger hammer technology ....that is what I aleays use.....:smart:
 

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