• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Side Mission: Team Associated SC10 forward receiver box

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
HIPS arrived. Let's try using it as the support interface layer with defaults and see what happens.

At 0.08mm layer height, there's lots of nozzle dragging. Supports came away pretty easily, but the HIPS is embedded in chunks.
1771363044681.webp


Did some Google spelunking, and I saw a few suggestions that <0.2mm layer height, you're going to always get this chunking. Tried 0.2mm layers and it was way cleaner. Still a few embeds, and supports were slightly harder to detach, but I'm pretty happy with the surface quality for not having to babysit the print.
1771363124666.webp


Comparison with the pre-printed and painters taped supports. Where the pre-printed supports aligned perfectly, the surface finish is way better.
1771363195494.webp


I'll do some more experiments (and actually calibrate the HIPS filament) and see if we can improve the results. I want to get back down closer to the 0.06mm layer height, so I get less stair-stepping on the angles.

Interestingly, the 0.2mm layer height (bottom) print has a different sheen to the other two. More glossy.
1771363335171.webp
 
HIPS arrived. Let's try using it as the support interface layer with defaults and see what happens.

At 0.08mm layer height, there's lots of nozzle dragging. Supports came away pretty easily, but the HIPS is embedded in chunks.
View attachment 266666

Did some Google spelunking, and I saw a few suggestions that <0.2mm layer height, you're going to always get this chunking. Tried 0.2mm layers and it was way cleaner. Still a few embeds, and supports were slightly harder to detach, but I'm pretty happy with the surface quality for not having to babysit the print.
View attachment 266667

Comparison with the pre-printed and painters taped supports. Where the pre-printed supports aligned perfectly, the surface finish is way better.
View attachment 266668

I'll do some more experiments (and actually calibrate the HIPS filament) and see if we can improve the results. I want to get back down closer to the 0.06mm layer height, so I get less stair-stepping on the angles.

Interestingly, the 0.2mm layer height (bottom) print has a different sheen to the other two. More glossy.
View attachment 266671
You'll find that half your nozzle height is almost always the best results. Don't ask me why that is, but I've tried .1, .12, .16, etc with a .4 nozzle. It will print, but not as well as .2. Others have mentioned this as well.

You need a resin printer. These kinda parts would look like injection molded goodies. Pretty impressive work bro.
 
You'll find that half your nozzle height is almost always the best results. Don't ask me why that is, but I've tried .1, .12, .16, etc with a .4 nozzle. It will print, but not as well as .2. Others have mentioned this as well.
Thanks, that's good insight. I haven't ever tried to combine filaments before now, so this is my first experience with different expansion rates in one layer.

You need a resin printer. These kinda parts would look like injection molded goodies. Pretty impressive work bro.
Yeah, they would. I'm trying to design around the processes I have access to right now. It's only a short hop to making a master that's flawless and casting copies, and then I'd also need to resurrect my vacuum chamber and pressure pot setup too 😅
 
Thanks, that's good insight. I haven't ever tried to combine filaments before now, so this is my first experience with different expansion rates in one layer.


Yeah, they would. I'm trying to design around the processes I have access to right now. It's only a short hop to making a master that's flawless and casting copies, and then I'd also need to resurrect my vacuum chamber and pressure pot setup too 😅
You're definitely making good use of FDM. There are a lot of people that try to print RC parts that don't work well. I can't really think of a more appropriate part that's perfectly fine to 3d print.

I'm so jealous of you guys with your newer printers. My old CR10 was one that used to be the shiit when I first hopped it up. It is the one that inspired Creality to steal my support rod design and sell it. They sent me a big ass S5 for it, but I still want a faster printer.

Just to show what's to come...
 
Oh that was your design? Nice work!

I love my X1C, but I think it’s probably the AMS that saves me the most time.
 
I think we’re as dialled as we’re gonna get. Trick was moving to honeycomb supports and 4 interface layers at 0.16mm layer height.
IMG_5722.webp


I kept getting awful rough interface layers when I got below 0.2mm layer height, and blamed it on the HIPS.

I happened to open the door on a print part way, and it was obvious that it was actually the ASA support base that was all over the place. Looked like it was warping.

Moved to a more stable support structure and boom, instantly better.

4 interface layers means way more filament swaps. 28g of filament for a 7g part. But it looks acceptable and is way more consistent than trying to get pre-printed supports just right.

I’ve got black ASA drying now. But of course, with these results, I’m gonna have to try the box like this too 😅
 
I think we’re as dialled as we’re gonna get. Trick was moving to honeycomb supports and 4 interface layers at 0.16mm layer height.
View attachment 266818

I kept getting awful rough interface layers when I got below 0.2mm layer height, and blamed it on the HIPS.

I happened to open the door on a print part way, and it was obvious that it was actually the ASA support base that was all over the place. Looked like it was warping.

Moved to a more stable support structure and boom, instantly better.

4 interface layers means way more filament swaps. 28g of filament for a 7g part. But it looks acceptable and is way more consistent than trying to get pre-printed supports just right.

I’ve got black ASA drying now. But of course, with these results, I’m gonna have to try the box like this too 😅
OCD much? 😝

That looks just perfect man. As nice as any FDM print I've seen.
 
Worth the effort you put into it. 😍
Yeah, starting to feel really good about this one. Normally I just spot all the places I cut corners.

To bad the manufacturers aren't as persistent in their designs.
This is why it needs to stay a hobby that I’m not trying to monetize 😅
 
Moment of truth.
1771530546668.webp

1771530642818.webp

1771530655190.webp


I left this on the bed over night, so the supports fought me a bit, but I'll take it. Interesting that we have some new artifacts showing up on the top inside surface. Peeling back the support interface layer shows the ASA support base is back to being rough as heck.
1771530731443.webp


I wanted to kick this off before I went to bed, so I used an older calibration profile. Same filament, same profile right? New batch, who dis?
1771530849916.webp
 
IMG_5775.webp

My new favourite tool. Gonna keep this one on the nightstand in case I get attacked by support material in the night.
 
So I thought I was a very clever boy, being able to print ASAP with no glue. That means cranking the PEI plate up to 110C.

At that temperature, HIPS does not behave well.

I only really noticed when I tried to print the receiver box, which has that fun 82.5 degree gull wing, and not enough height off the bed to lay the HIPS interface on a raft of ASA. The HIPS just kind of oozed out.

So, glue and a lower bed temperature it is!

IMG_5765.webp
IMG_5766.webp
IMG_5767.webp
IMG_5768.webp
IMG_5769.webp
 
I needed to adjust one angle on the lid, so I printed it again, at the lower bed temperature.
IMG_5771.webp
IMG_5772.webp


Much cleaner support base.
IMG_5773.webp


Scarring only where I got a little impatient peeling back the final support interface.

IMG_5774.webp
 
Now you need to take a soldering iron and autograph your masterpiece. :thumbs-up: Really came out great, loved seeing the whole process too. In a way I'm sorry it's over, but looking forward to your next design adventure. 🤜🤛
 
Now you need to take a soldering iron and autograph your masterpiece. :thumbs-up: Really came out great, loved seeing the whole process too. In a way I'm sorry it's over, but looking forward to your next design adventure. 🤜🤛
Thank you sir.
 
OK, posting these because I'm pretty happy.

Kit receiver box.
1771623793130.webp


Printed ASA receiver box, with threaded inserts.
1771623823566.webp
 
Back
Top