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Show Pics Of Your Battery Pack, If You Have One

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Skipper

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I just bought a rechargable 5 cell hump battery pack, and was wondering if anyone has installed one of these in there maxxes, and to show me how you went about doing it, so it was safe. Please post pics if you have them, or just explain.

Thanks
 
I got the 1100mah pack from Onlybatterypacks.com.

Step 1 - open up stock battery box and snip out the old battery holder by cutting the black and red wires that go to the plastic battery holder (where your 4 *now inferior* alkalines are.....I snip the wires in the center, that way no swearing about making one side too long or short :) ).

Step 2 - strip 1/4" off of each of the wires remaining in the stock battery box (they come off the on/off switch).

Step 3 - solder red lead from on/off switch to positive lead of battery pack.

Step 4 - solder black lead from on/off switch to negative lead of battery pack.

Optional - use heat shrink to cover both of these connections........I did, but since the connections were so far apart it would be really odd to have them touch.

Step 5 - route wires inside battery box and replace back onto Tmaxx.

Step 6 - let it charge..........charging instructions should be included with the pack (in my case, 11 hours of slow charging for the 1100mah pack).

Sorry I didnt take pics, I hope the explanation helps.

-Chris
 
Yea i understand what you did, but when i gt my battery pack, i also got the on off switch, so i would just plug in the charger and not have to disconnect everytime i needed a charge. But i did a more primative way of connecting, and zip tied battery to frame, and conneceted swith to wires for reciever and attached it to the top of the reciever box. Sounds confusing, but ill take pics when i get home
 
Packs

I use BLiND Batteries MAXXPAX
These are 6V 1100mAh NiMh brick packs.
I use a Micro connector (a-la Micro RS4) to connect these to the MAXX.
I don't charge them on the MAXX, as I have three of these critters.
Each one is good for over 3 tanks of fuel.
I have upgraded a few of the electronics on my T-MAXX, so a bigger battery was needed.
I use a Hitech HS645MG for the steering servo and moved the inadequate Traxxas 2055 steering servo to do the throttle brake function, as the Traxxas 2018 servos are underpowered for braking duty.
My MAXX also has a GWS FailSafe unit and KoPropo KR-301F 40MHz FM RX.

For more info on these packs, visit the BLiND Batteries web page
 
Last edited:
A picture

Oops,

Here's a picture of a BLiND MAXXPAX.
 

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I got a onlybatterypacks 2700mah nimh. I have a lead for my rx & all I have to do is connect it to the rx to go play or connect the charger to the pack. Its good for more than 10hrs of run time. Heres how I mounted it.
 
nitro zombie, where did you have the reciver box, i dont see it, and does yours have a switch for on and off. looks like you did yours nicely. also does it get in the way of anything or no?
 
My rx is in a baloon and ziptied on the back of the front shock tower. Anther baloon with foam in it is in between the tower and rx to insulate it from vibrations and hard impacts. I dont use any switches, just a wire with a rx/servo style connector on one end and a connector for the battery pack on the other. If I want to turn the truck on I just plug the battery in, when I need to charge it I just put it near an outlet and hookup the charger. Couldnt be easier. Here is a pic of the wire/ rx/ battery pack & charger.
 
Optional - use heat shrink to cover both of these connections........I did, but since the connections were so far apart it would be really odd to have them touch
Click to expand...


please i hope you cover your exposed wire connections, if its a cut and splice to connector change like deans plugs. use heat shrink and electrical tape.
just because the wires dont touch each other dont mean your not running the posibility of shorting out the reciever pack and posibily damaging the reciever. not fun to have a shorted out battery pack.

jim
 
Yeah, i put heat shrink on them, but you can tuck the two posts back under the heat shrink already included in the battery pack after making the solder.

Adding the heat shrink doubles it up, then it all gets tucked inside the battery box anyway (at least in my case). If you were to attach the pack to the front of the truck, then yes, heat shrink is required.

-Chris
 
Thanks for the help guys, got mine all done and looks good, actually better and beefeier than that stock thing, plus weighs less. Hopefully ill get some pics
 

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