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Can you square the car?

My reasons would be the weight shift based on the level of the car itself. Thus, the suspension can cause more weight to be in front than in back etc.... etc... etc...

Like I was saying, damn close.
 
:confused: setup boards??? i use a piece of a 2x4 to keep my car up in the air while I'm adjusting do i need to have one of those because all i do is bash
 
Originally posted by FRIDGE
:confused: setup boards??? i use a piece of a 2x4 to keep my car up in the air while I'm adjusting do i need to have one of those because all i do is bash

Fridge this would pretty much be for the true racer. If you are just bashing than I wouldn't worry about it. I am only contemplating true touring car setup because I might want to try to race my car this coming year.
 
After all that has been said I still stand by the Hudy and the scratch awl method.
 
Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
Can you square the car?

My reasons would be the weight shift based on the level of the car itself. Thus, the suspension can cause more weight to be in front than in back etc.... etc... etc...

Like I was saying, damn close.


Read that again.

I'm not sure if you understand chassis setup. If the scales are 100% level, they are going to read wheel weights. If you set left to right ride heights in the front then in the rear are the same, the only thing your "weight shift" will change is rear % as you said.

That is after getting the left and right side wheel weights the same moving weight in the car and using the same chassis height in the RF/LF and RR/LR.


You are correct in your reason, just not understanding that what you are saying is wrong is actually correct. You want the scales/setup board level at all times, the idea is to read on scales what is going on when you do make movements. If the rear ride height is higher then the front, it makes the rear weight more and viceversa. The scale is only going to read what you put on it, and acurately.

I stress level all the time for setup. Setting up real cars it's alittle hard without self leveling scales. Then it becomes easier to put marks down on a fixed surface for scaling and chassis setup so it's done in the same plce over and over. Exacting surface area, that can't be had with a portable setup area is the key.


If you put your setup board or scales on a work bench that was not level, you'd be reading the bench's and your cars problems when you set your car on the scales and not the problems with just your car.


Ramble ramble ramble....
 
No, I followed completely. And that is why I agree 100% !!!!

You know how sometimes you can push down on your ride and for whatever reason a shock doesn't fully rebound. Something as stupid and as small as that can cause the weight to shift from the front right to the back left.

My goal wasn't to knock the scales guys. Just to illustrate that 100% accuracy wasn't obtainable in my OPINION. Although 98+ % isnt out of reach.

Even with instrumentation and equipment/environments as described above, 99.5 % would probably be the best.

lol

I'm on your guys side!!!!!

Personally, I use the caster/camber setup tools from RPM, the shock setup tool from Losi (before that it was a digital caliper) and a good alum ride height gauge from Dynamite. Oh, and a ruler to check width. With those alone, my on-road has never had a performance issue due to handling. It handles like a dream using those tool.

A setup board might just make it easier and the scales for me are just overkill.

I set my balance half assed with golf tee's. I've even use an architecht scale (ruler) with two strips of tape running down the center of the chassis. I put the ruler between the two strips so it didnt slide off center. This was just to get an IDEA of where the weight difference was and adjust fromt there.

I spend a LOT more effort trying to perfectly balance an R.C. Plane that I do a car. But it helped a little bit on my car. I think associated did a great just of setting up the NTC3 to be damn close to balanced if just the factory setup was used.
 
No, I'm getting the point. Seriously. And I'm not even trying to argue with anyone. I dont know why its coming off that way. Maybe because I'm a peepee or something.

Anyhow. IS IT SAFE TO SAY that the scales are the best metod of checking weight? And that they are what percentage accurate?!?
 
Sorry, just couldn't find the perfect words to describe what I was trying to say.


Scales that are 100% level are 100% correct.

My reasons would be the weight shift based on the level of the car itself. Thus, the suspension can cause more weight to be in front than in back etc.... etc... etc...


And the scale would read that 100%. It reads wheel weights. Understand, I'm not argueing at all, just wondering what you mean with that comment?
 
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