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Sold / Found Selling Thunder Tiger EB4 S-3 1/8 Scale-Gas
- Thread starter Ericke1
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Well, looks like this weeend is a "no go" for me. I'm expecting a $#!T load of work from the hospitals. I don't even think I can get in a decent break in for the EB4-S3. Ericke, what kind of break-in do you prefer or are you letting me do what I want?Ericke1 said:
I've used the bess method with great results
"From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan. "
"From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory engine settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan. "
Ericke1
RCTalk Addict
- Thread starter
- #29
Break-In
Do you think I can at least pick at least one car up on Saturday sometime so I can go to dirtrunners on Sunday, maybe the Violator? For the inferno, please dont forget to check the hubs with NYC, or see my PMs.
For break in, I would use the conservative method unless you disagree then I leave it up to you-my method,, start the engine, low rpm, cooling-Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool, check to see that piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Repeat the above steps three or four more times. Right? I can do the track break in on high needle unless you have time? This is where we blip the throttle to avoid strain on the engine, ie drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range. Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankful's of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs. Then the leaning out..
I just found out about a medical supply liquidation, should I put u in contact with the Company?
Diver6127 said:
Do you think I can at least pick at least one car up on Saturday sometime so I can go to dirtrunners on Sunday, maybe the Violator? For the inferno, please dont forget to check the hubs with NYC, or see my PMs.
For break in, I would use the conservative method unless you disagree then I leave it up to you-my method,, start the engine, low rpm, cooling-Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool, check to see that piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Repeat the above steps three or four more times. Right? I can do the track break in on high needle unless you have time? This is where we blip the throttle to avoid strain on the engine, ie drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range. Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankful's of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs. Then the leaning out..
I just found out about a medical supply liquidation, should I put u in contact with the Company?
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I haven't even pickup up one of those buggies yet. If you want to bring a buggy to run, I would say the other thunder tiger you have here would let you run. I would just have to switch out that weak servo for a stronger one. IF you want to try and bring your Kyosho, that's up to you. I was going to heat cycle your engine for break-in, basically what slothy said, since that's what I usually do.
The WOT method that Josh Cyrul is what will be done for my Sirio. Only reason I'm doing that is becuase IF sl0eg1n breaks it doing this method, he owes me antoher one! hahahaha. He wants to try it so badly, you break it ... you broke it ... you bought it!
The WOT method that Josh Cyrul is what will be done for my Sirio. Only reason I'm doing that is becuase IF sl0eg1n breaks it doing this method, he owes me antoher one! hahahaha. He wants to try it so badly, you break it ... you broke it ... you bought it!
badboy2
RCTalk Addict
thats what I'm gonna bring and my mgt..last time we went there i broke th/brakes servo saver..and right now my mgt is havin troubles maybe the ps or the oneway againEricke1 said:
its the 4th one now
just like the rotostart, don't spin it too long. If it was a non pullstart its not a big deal. That is how the rotostart kills one ways.PM me and I can help you with your MGT.badboy2 said:thats what I'm gonna bring and my mgt..last time we went there i broke th/brakes servo saver..and right now my mgt is havin troubles maybe the ps or the oneway again
Ericke1
RCTalk Addict
- Thread starter
- #34
ok that break in is fine too, can me pick up the tt then on sat, wont you need the starter box though, even the violator is done, just have to slap back the back plate on, we can do the 2 speed another day
not fair, you should have worked on one buggy before the tt, people power!
new car got more attention to old car-me
not fair, you should have worked on one buggy before the tt, people power!
new car got more attention to old car-me
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Ericke1
RCTalk Addict
- Thread starter
- #39
ok seriously, youll need the box for the eb4, so yes keep it for that the the inferno, can bro just slap on the engine for the violator or else I can do it-it shouldnt take more than 15 mins, i just didnt remember how to get the spring and the connecting rod together?
I think for the TT Mirage Ill get a 645 mg used or see what you can get from NYCH, I'm not able to get an engine at an affordable price for the NTC so see if you can offload for now.
I think for the TT Mirage Ill get a 645 mg used or see what you can get from NYCH, I'm not able to get an engine at an affordable price for the NTC so see if you can offload for now.
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