SCT Carpet Racing

[Addict Rc]

So my hobby shop now does SCT racing so I’ll try it out the slash 2wd will be the truck that I will make suffer and so I put the 4x4 Rustler stock shocks on there, going to get a hobbywing esc, it’s 2s lipo so don’t need a crazy esc I already have the VXL3S motor I was planning on using enless I should use a different one and tire and rims wise this is probably what I’ll go with for tire glue can I use any glue?
Rear Tire: https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...rear-2.2-carpet-buggy-tires-2/PRO8277103.html
Rear Rim: https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...-2.2-12mm-buggy-wheels-2-white/PRO273604.html
Front:
https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...y-trs-mntd-12mm-wht-velocity-2/PRO827813.html

 

[DavidB1126]

Well hold on, which car will you be racing the rustler or the slash? If the slash you would need sct tires. If prolines makes the prisim tires in sct that would be good. I used the Schumacher mini pins sct on mine for grey/black carpet. For the hobbywing esc I would go with the sct max10 because the rustler 4x4 and slash 2wd are heavy cars. (Hobbywing discontinued the max10 and they are coming out with the max10 G2 which is sensored and would be better for racing) for glue I would use CA glue or any tire glue on amain. I have the protek tire glue and bands coming. If you are racing the rustler, find stadium truck tires. The tires/ wheels you linked are for 2wd and 4wd buggy. You would either need sct tires/wheels or stadium truck tires/wheels. The proline prisim, Schumacher mini pins, or other tires like Jconcepts are good. I would go with Schumacher tires. (Schumacher is from the UK and they to a lot of carpet and turf racing over there)
Also for tires just talk with the local guys that run there for tire suggestions. Each track and car is different.
Sct wheels and tires would be 2.2/3.0 and stadium truck tires and wheels are 2.8 I believe. Also there are different compounds of tires like soft to medium to hard

 

[Addict Rc]

Well hold on, which car will you be racing the rustler or the slash? If the slash you would need sct tires. If prolines makes the prisim tires in sct that would be good. I used the Schumacher mini pins sct on mine for grey/black carpet. For the hobbywing esc I would go with the sct max10 because the rustler 4x4 and slash 2wd are heavy cars. (Hobbywing discontinued the max10 and they are coming out with the max10 G2 which is sensored and would be better for racing) for glue I would use CA glue or any tire glue on amain. I have the protek tire glue and bands coming. If you are racing the rustler, find stadium truck tires. The tires/ wheels you linked are for 2wd and 4wd buggy. You would either need sct tires/wheels or stadium truck tires/wheels. The proline prisim, Schumacher mini pins, or other tires like Jconcepts are good. I would go with Schumacher tires. (Schumacher is from the UK and they to a lot of carpet and turf racing over there)
Also for tires just talk with the local guys that run there for tire suggestions. Each track and car is different.
Sct wheels and tires would be 2.2/3.0 and stadium truck tires and wheels are 2.8 I believe. Also there are different compounds of tires like soft to medium to hard

Ok thanks also the slash 2wd

 

[Addict Rc]

This motor and esc combo I’ll be getting https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...erproof-esc-3652sd-motor-hwa38020346/p1455074

 

[DavidB1126]

If you are doing MOD it will be a different kv motor. If you are doing stock which I believe is 13.5 it will be 3500kv which that 3300kv combo is the closest for stock racing. The vxl motor is 3500kv but sensorless so I don't know if you can run it with that ESC.
That combo with the 3300kv motor will be slightly slower than a 3500/13.5 motor and they should let you run with that motor. Might have to gear up a little to get it a little faster.

With stock they use the same turn it kv motor to keep everything fair. For mod it's like all over the place some are faster some are slower because of different motors and gearing.
There are other things to get faster or slower. Main thing is weight. I think the slash will be the heaviest car on the track. There are other heavy and lighter parts. I am not sure about these parts availability for the slash. There is plastic, aluminum, titanium and brass. Plastic being the lightest brass being the heaviest. Common things upgraded for buggies are titanium turnbuckles and brass bulkheads. Not sure about short course tho.

 

[Addict Rc]

If you are doing MOD it will be a different kv motor. If you are doing stock which I believe is 13.5 it will be 3500kv which that 3300kv combo is the closest for stock racing. The vxl motor is 3500kv but sensorless so I don't know if you can run it with that ESC.
That combo with the 3300kv motor will be slightly slower than a 3500/13.5 motor and they should let you run with that motor. Might have to gear up a little to get it a little faster.
View attachment 156656
With stock they use the same turn it kv motor to keep everything fair. For mod it's like all over the place some are faster some are slower because of different motors and gearing.
There are other things to get faster or slower. Main thing is weight. I think the slash will be the heaviest car on the track. There are other heavy and lighter parts. I am not sure about these parts availability for the slash. There is plastic, aluminum, titanium and brass. Plastic being the lightest brass being the heaviest. Common things upgraded for buggies are titanium turnbuckles and brass bulkheads. Not sure about short course tho.

I talked to them it’s 10.5t or 13.5t with sensored motor and esc

 

[DavidB1126]

Ok so 13.5 is 3500kv which the G2 3300kv will be the closest. 10.5 is 4500kv. The G2 SCT 4000kv or the G2 4100kv will be the closest. The max10 G2 is 80a ESC. The SCT version is 140a ESC. Both are sensored. If you are doing both racing and bashing then the G2 or a castle sensored combo will be the best. If you are strictly doing racing with the slash then a more competitive hobbywing system or tekin system will do the job. But fkr bashing and racing, any of the max10 G2 will be best. With the max10 all the wires comes ready to go. With more competitive systems and castle systems you would need to solder battery connector and motor wires which idk if you can solder. So imo the G2 will be the best. Now tires. Look for SCT carpet tires. I would talk to the guys that run there about the tires and compounds. Another thing I would do to the car is try to get the car lower for better handling. Idk about your track but at my old LHS I took corners way to fast and traction rolled so I would try to take corners a little bit slow at first then get faster. Also another thing to note if you go and race like every other weekend the slash will be alright. If you race more and more I would suggest to get a more competitive sct kit (or roller/rtr used on eBay or fb marketplace) so you don't break as much parts and handle better. For those kits I would look at the TLR kits and the tekno sct410.3.
From what I heard the tekno sct410.3 (tekno 4wd sct) has a 1/8 scale based chassis and it is basically indestructible. The TLR SCTE 3.0 is a 4wd sct. The TLR 22SCTE 3.0 is a 2wd sct and based of of the 22 5.0 (2wd buggy)
Another upgrade for the slash, if you still traction roll even when taking corners slow I would get the hot racing sway bar kit. I don't have it on my slash but I seen other people use it and helps with flipping. (The kit does not come with instructions and might need to make modifications to make it fit) I would get a bottle of shock oil and different weights. I wouldn also get different pinion gears and spurs to for tuning and make the car handle better. Lastly I would get extra parts and create a spare parts bin just in case if you break anything.
Also from your videos on yt you are using Traxxas batteries and chargers which are ok. You don't want your battery dead in the middle of the race so I would get 5000ma plus lipos. As for the Traxxas ez peak chargers. They can only charge at 4amps. I would suggest to get a better charger. I would look at dual 6s chargers and that can charge at 10+ amps so you don't have to wait for your battery to charge after each round or heat. Some good chargers are the SkyRC T200(my personal charger), HiTec X2, Hota D6 Pro. These chargers do use different inputs. The SkyRC and Hota use xt60s and the hitec uses 4mm bullets. So I would make or find 4mm bullet to Traxxas lead(for the hitec) or a xt60 to Traxxas (for the others). Speaking of adapters the max 10 G2 uses xt60s so I would make or find xt60 to Traxxas adapter like these: Adapters

 

[DavidB1126]

I think most tracks are like this. You need a pit mat and lipos in fireproof bags. I would get lipo storage bag and charging pouches. For pit mats any pit mat would work or just a yoga mat because yoga mats are the same material as pit mats. You will probably need shop towels and a compressed air can (for the carpet dust). If your track has a air compressor there... Even better. All the things I state are upgrades. Like the Traxxas batteries and charger are ok but not good. The stock vxl systems are ok but not good for racing. The rule about lipos in bags are a must for indoor tracks. My uncle told me about all the mini fires they had while racing. I don't think this is needed for plastic chassis but for better cars with metal/aluminum chassis, get a chassis protector, protects the carpet. I guess it protects the chassis too but the carpet is more likely.

 

[Addict Rc]

Ok so 13.5 is 3500kv which the G2 3300kv will be the closest. 10.5 is 4500kv. The G2 SCT 4000kv or the G2 4100kv will be the closest. The max10 G2 is 80a ESC. The SCT version is 140a ESC. Both are sensored. If you are doing both racing and bashing then the G2 or a castle sensored combo will be the best. If you are strictly doing racing with the slash then a more competitive hobbywing system or tekin system will do the job. But fkr bashing and racing, any of the max10 G2 will be best. With the max10 all the wires comes ready to go. With more competitive systems and castle systems you would need to solder battery connector and motor wires which idk if you can solder. So imo the G2 will be the best. Now tires. Look for SCT carpet tires. I would talk to the guys that run there about the tires and compounds. Another thing I would do to the car is try to get the car lower for better handling. Idk about your track but at my old LHS I took corners way to fast and traction rolled so I would try to take corners a little bit slow at first then get faster. Also another thing to note if you go and race like every other weekend the slash will be alright. If you race more and more I would suggest to get a more competitive sct kit (or roller/rtr used on eBay or fb marketplace) so you don't break as much parts and handle better. For those kits I would look at the TLR kits and the tekno sct410.3.
From what I heard the tekno sct410.3 (tekno 4wd sct) has a 1/8 scale based chassis and it is basically indestructible. The TLR SCTE 3.0 is a 4wd sct. The TLR 22SCTE 3.0 is a 2wd sct and based of of the 22 5.0 (2wd buggy)
Another upgrade for the slash, if you still traction roll even when taking corners slow I would get the hot racing sway bar kit. I don't have it on my slash but I seen other people use it and helps with flipping. (The kit does not come with instructions and might need to make modifications to make it fit) I would get a bottle of shock oil and different weights. I wouldn also get different pinion gears and spurs to for tuning and make the car handle better. Lastly I would get extra parts and create a spare parts bin just in case if you break anything.
Also from your videos on yt you are using Traxxas batteries and chargers which are ok. You don't want your battery dead in the middle of the race so I would get 5000ma plus lipos. As for the Traxxas ez peak chargers. They can only charge at 4amps. I would suggest to get a better charger. I would look at dual 6s chargers and that can charge at 10+ amps so you don't have to wait for your battery to charge after each round or heat. Some good chargers are the SkyRC T200(my personal charger), HiTec X2, Hota D6 Pro. These chargers do use different inputs. The SkyRC and Hota use xt60s and the hitec uses 4mm bullets. So I would make or find 4mm bullet to Traxxas lead(for the hitec) or a xt60 to Traxxas (for the others). Speaking of adapters the max 10 G2 uses xt60s so I would make or find xt60 to Traxxas adapter like these: Adapters

So the 140A is the correct one to use not the 80A?

 

[DavidB1126]

You can either get the 140 or the 80. The 80 would be less expensive but still should handle the slash since my 120amp in my slash does just fine. The 140 amp would be better for 10.5 because the closest HW offers is a 4100kv which comes with the 140amp I believe. Or you can try to get the ESC and motor separate depending on what you do like either 13.5 or 10.5.
So you can either get the 140 or the 80 amp esc. For motors it depends what you are doing. For 13.5 I would get the 3300kv. For 10.5 I would get the 4100kv motors.
It it were me I would go with the 80amp ESC bc it is less expensive and most guys run 120 amp and I would try to keep it fair. If you want the 80amp and racing 10.5/4100kv I would get the ESC and motor separate but I don't know if the motor connectors are the same between the 80a and the 140.
13.5: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...erproof-esc-3652sd-motor-hwa38020346/p1455074

10.5: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...erproof-esc-3652sd-motor-hwa38020347/p1455075
These come with the 80amp ESC. These would be the closest for kv to turn motors that HW offers.

 

[Addict Rc]

You can either get the 140 or the 80. The 80 would be less expensive but still should handle the slash since my 120amp in my slash does just fine. The 140 amp would be better for 10.5 because the closest HW offers is a 4100kv which comes with the 140amp I believe. Or you can try to get the ESC and motor separate depending on what you do like either 13.5 or 10.5.
So you can either get the 140 or the 80 amp esc. For motors it depends what you are doing. For 13.5 I would get the 3300kv. For 10.5 I would get the 4100kv motors.
It it were me I would go with the 80amp ESC bc it is less expensive and most guys run 120 amp and I would try to keep it fair. If you want the 80amp and racing 10.5/4100kv I would get the ESC and motor separate but I don't know if the motor connectors are the same between the 80a and the 140.
13.5: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...erproof-esc-3652sd-motor-hwa38020346/p1455074

10.5: https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbyw...erproof-esc-3652sd-motor-hwa38020347/p1455075
These come with the 80amp ESC. These would be the closest for kv to turn motors that HW offers.

Ok will definitely look into it and see what others run I might just buy a brand new slash kit to build up

 

[DavidB1126]

Yea a new slash might be good but the slash kit is basically the RTR in kit version. You would have to get the LCG chassis, aluminum shock caps and alot of other parts to make it durable. Or just steal some parts from your existing slash.
But if you want to build one up I would go straight for a better kit. I would look at the TLR 22SCTE for 2wd and the TLR SCTE 3.0 or the tekno sct410.3 for 4wd.
Team Associated has a short course truck but I don't know how good or old it is.

 

[DavidB1126]

I just watched a video on a Short course truck racing. He was using the hobbywing xerun xr8 sct with a 4300kv motor (sensored system, needs soldering for connections) this is made for short course truck racing. This is a more competitive system as well. Since you are doing bashing and racing for your slash I would still go with the max10 G2. Either 3300 or 4100kv depending on what class you are doing. (10.5 or 13.5)
This esc (xerun xr8) is a 140a ESC as well. You can either go with the 80a or 140. I would go with 140 since I guess most sct racers use 140a ESCs

 

[Addict Rc]

Yea a new slash might be good but the slash kit is basically the RTR in kit version. You would have to get the LCG chassis, aluminum shock caps and alot of other parts to make it durable. Or just steal some parts from your existing slash.
But if you want to build one up I would go straight for a better kit. I would look at the TLR 22SCTE for 2wd and the TLR SCTE 3.0 or the tekno sct410.3 for 4wd.
Team Associated has a short course truck but I don't know how good or old it is.

Yes I actually think buying the 2wd vxl because I can sell the motor and ESC that will pay for the new one and sell probably all the electronics that will pay for new ones and tires

 

[DavidB1126]

Sounds like a plan. I was thinking about selling my slash because of the b74 build but I'm like, I gotta keep it I just have too. The car is just to much fun.
Now I don't have space for another car. I only keep my rcs in the back half of my basement since there is no other place in the house. If I get another car I'll probably store them upstairs in my room.
And also the slash was my first rc so I kinda don't want to sell it but I do want to sell it because it ain't durable to my bashing still after being fully upgraded and it's a pain sometimes.

 

[Addict Rc]

Sounds like a plan. I was thinking about selling my slash because of the b74 build but I'm like, I gotta keep it I just have too. The car is just to much fun.
Now I don't have space for another car. I only keep my rcs in the back half of my basement since there is no other place in the house. If I get another car I'll probably store them upstairs in my room.
And also the slash was my first rc so I kinda don't want to sell it but I do want to sell it because it ain't durable to my bashing still after being fully upgraded and it's a pain sometimes.

Same problem with the slash

 

[Lukedavis]

So my hobby shop now does SCT racing so I’ll try it out the slash 2wd will be the truck that I will make suffer and so I put the 4x4 Rustler stock shocks on there, going to get a hobbywing esc, it’s 2s lipo so don’t need a crazy esc I already have the VXL3S motor I was planning on using enless I should use a different one and tire and rims wise this is probably what I’ll go with for tire glue can I use any glue?
Rear Tire: https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...rear-2.2-carpet-buggy-tires-2/PRO8277103.html
Rear Rim: https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...-2.2-12mm-buggy-wheels-2-white/PRO273604.html
Front:
https://www.prolineracing.com/produ...y-trs-mntd-12mm-wht-velocity-2/PRO827813.html

do carpet tracks allow 4x4 SCT's? I have a team associated sc10 4x4 belt driven and I want to race it. Can yall help me find some places that allow me to drive it in Oregon near portland?

 

[DavidB1126]

Yes carpet tracks do 4wd scts. Just see what your local track runs. Short course racing is sort of fading away.

PDX rc underground (gray carpet)
Dave's rc track (looks like a backyard dirt track)
R/C plus

Those are all tracks I found on Google.
And also this is the same with scts. Belt drive is old now. Most racers use shaft drive and it is more reliable than belt drive.
Also it depends on what those tracks run. If they don't run short course then they don't run it and yea. In order to race a certain class they need 4 or more people and might just make it a heat.

 

[Lukedavis]

Yes carpet tracks do 4wd scts. Just see what your local track runs. Short course racing is sort of fading away.

PDX rc underground (gray carpet)
Dave's rc track (looks like a backyard dirt track)
R/C plus

Those are all tracks I found on Google.
And also this is the same with scts. Belt drive is old now. Most racers use shaft drive and it is more reliable than belt drive.
Also it depends on what those tracks run. If they don't run short course then they don't run it and yea. In order to race a certain class they need 4 or more people and might just make it a heat.

daves track i have never heard of. I'm pretty sure that u can't use 4wd SCT's at pdx.

 

[DavidB1126]

I would go on Facebook and look at local rc groups for different tracks. If PDX has more than 4 people with 4wd sct then they might make it a heat.
Or talk to the people at PDX for other track recommendations.