HeartBreak
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After a lot of thinking and some mild tinkering, here is a fix that I have come up with to help keep the slipper set exactly where you put it. It will cost you about $9 or so. The chief parts are one tube of RED threadlock compound, a little black grease, and one washer. The washer has to look like the one already on the slipper, but with one key difference; it has to be ROUND in the center; no hex.
First thing to do is break down the slipper. Keep in mind, the single pad and the dual pad assemble almost identically (backplate, spur, second plate if dual pad, then washer, spring, nut). Keep note of how it came apart.
Now, when you take it apart, LEAVE THE WASHER ON THE SHAFT against the spur/second plate. Now, what you will do next is put a little black grease on the second washer (with the round inner hole) and install it, greased side to the first washer.
Next, install the spring. The next part is strictly optional; a drop of red threadlock to hold the setting where you put it. Use the "High strength" stuff; NOT THE PERMANENT!
Next, install the nut, and torque it to one half turn from bottomed out. Let the threadlock set up for at least 24 hours.
What this fix does, is create a slipping point, much like a thrust bearing setup found on the Associated 1/10th offroad slippers, allowing the spur and inner washer to slip, without torqueing the spring and nut.
I will work on an exploded diagram later this evening and post it.
First thing to do is break down the slipper. Keep in mind, the single pad and the dual pad assemble almost identically (backplate, spur, second plate if dual pad, then washer, spring, nut). Keep note of how it came apart.
Now, when you take it apart, LEAVE THE WASHER ON THE SHAFT against the spur/second plate. Now, what you will do next is put a little black grease on the second washer (with the round inner hole) and install it, greased side to the first washer.
Next, install the spring. The next part is strictly optional; a drop of red threadlock to hold the setting where you put it. Use the "High strength" stuff; NOT THE PERMANENT!
Next, install the nut, and torque it to one half turn from bottomed out. Let the threadlock set up for at least 24 hours.
What this fix does, is create a slipping point, much like a thrust bearing setup found on the Associated 1/10th offroad slippers, allowing the spur and inner washer to slip, without torqueing the spring and nut.
I will work on an exploded diagram later this evening and post it.