• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

savage problems

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

funwheels1

RCTalk Qualifier
Messages
165
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
hey,
I just got my savage tuned and it still runs pretty bad. Like, it bogs/stutters when i accelerate making me feel its going to stall. I have the thing tuned its the stocker engine. Could this stutteration and bogging be from airbubbles in the fuel line?
 
man its leaned out not dangerous but its not rich. Maybe u guys dont like comprehend? Like for the first quarter tank it runs nice as poop. THen it starts not a stutter noise but like the engine takes longer to rev up and SOUNDS like it wants to die. I'm thinking the slipper clutch is doing its job to well or the fact that i have massive ammounts of air bubbles in the fuel lines is kind of causing the engine to skip for the second it doesn't have fueL? I plan on replacin the fuel lines but i want this thing running good! Also, i used the engine manual to try tuning up the low fuel part and i was worried i would lean it to much. Please help me if u dont understand part of this tell me.

oh mr skyyyyymaxxxxxx i could use some of ur profound advice right bout now:help:
 
LOL...I'm here. Let me get this straight.

The engine is "tuned"? Are you certain? What is the HSN needle set at?

Next, you stated that it runs fine for about a quarter tank and then starts acting up. You saw bubbles in the fuel lines at this point?

Let me have these answers and then, I'll assess...
 
ok I'm not certain its tuned but i was out in the heat for 45 min working on that bugger. It shifts into second nice and sitll has a blue smoke trail and mos palm. I'm not sure the setting. and for the next question it runs fine about quarter tank right after it gets warmed up, then i notice fuel bubbles, correct. ask more if uneed to bc i want to take this to the track tomarow but i dont know if it will be running!
 
Okay, the first thing I want you to do: remove the fuel from the tank. Then undo the tubing that goes to the pipe (the back pressure line). Unplug it at the pipe so that it is still connected to the lid of the tank. Then unplug the fuel line from the engine (fuel supply line). Remove the fuel tank and tubing (with tubing still connected) from the truck. Clean up the tanks outside and the tubing as best you can. Fill a sink with water deep enough to submerge the tank in. Hold one tube (back pressure or fuel supply) so that it is kinked to keep it from letting air escape. Hold the tank under water and blow in the other non-kinked tube. Watch out for bad nitro taste...

Blow just hard enough to pressurize the tank and lines. Watch for any air bubbles escaping. Then get back to me.

Also, turn in the HSN and count how many turns CW it takes to seat the needle.
 
The reason I need you to do this is to rule out air leaks in the fuel tank and lines.
 
Did you do the HSN thing that I asked? How many turns CW did it go until the needle stopped?

Do you have any Armor All? A spritz (one spritz only) in your gallon of fuel will help get rid of air bubbles caused by a bumpy ride or vibrations from the engine.

The needle setting will help me answer the other half of the mystery.
 
You have two problems.

One, the air bubbles in the fuel line. Most likely caused by the bumpy ride and good pressure from the engine driving them into the fuel line. That will give you the stutter, VW Bug, sounding engine. The Armor All tip that I mentioned earlier will take care of the frothy fuel issues.

Two, still not dialed in. That needle setting is a bit on the rich side of things (almost a full turn too rich). You can run rich, but that will tend to cause the engine to bog down and stall when you put on the throttle. Too much fuel too quickly equals flooded engine and you get a stall. Try leaning it out about a half a turn. Do this in very small steps (like 1/16-1/8 of a turn at a time). You still want a good trail of smoke, but at the moment you are too rich to get both performance and consistant running.

You can probably lean the HSN until about the two turns CCW mark, but I wouldn't go much leaner. Stay between 2.5 and 3.0 turns CCW and see how she runs.
 
thank you so much for all your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i buy my fuel in quart sizes how much armoral would i add to that?\


also off topic but do u know where i can get a set of bowties tires for my savage?
 
You should be good with a little spritz in the quart.

ProLine makes a set of Bow Ties for the T-Maxx. Put them on an RPM rim like the StableMaxx Monster Claws, and you will gain about an inch in width (footprint) and a jump off the line. You lose a little top speed going to the T-Maxx tires, but not much.

http://www.pro-lineracing.com/proline/tires/1079/1079.html

And yes, T-Maxx tims and tires fit the Savage. The Savage was designed in that fashion to take advantage of the already huge market of T-Maxx aftermarket parts.

Check your LHS or TowerHobbies:

Tires:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXABV5&P=0

Rims:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFW6&P=0
 
agian, TY u are the best and nicest member on these boards:thumbsup:
 
Back
Top