savage idle probs +

[pencilzuk]

Hi,
been having lots of probs getting my savage to run sweet. I just took it out for a run and tune up it kept cutting out either when i let go of the pullstart or removed the glow starter i increased the idle speed then leaned the hs needle after a while it seemed to be running o.k but then started cutting out when i braked. anyway got that sorted then moved on to a differnt place to have a bash started it up and the same thing happened again cutting out when pullstart released had to increase idle to get it to run. then the wheels were turning at idle?? please tell me what i am doing wrong i have read lots about tuning. this is now really doing my nut. could something be sticking so that idle is not consistant ?? also lots of smoke coming from the exhaust and engine head but if i lean anymore it stalls...
any help / suggestion please :\

 

[savage XL]

G'day!
I had a similar problem with my Savage XL when I first ran it after break in.
You need to check the gap in the carb throat when applying the brakes, if it closes when you apply the brakes, then you will need to adjust it. You will need to adjust either the throttle arm, unlikely, or the idle screw to get the correct 1mm gap when the brakes are fully applied.
My problem stemmed from the radio trim, I readjusted mine to zero trim and started again, I haven't had a problem since.
One piece of advice I was given is to only adjust the idle speed with the brakes fully applied, and it worked very well for me.

I would suggest after setting your carb gap (1mm) and radio trim to zero, to putting all your carb settings back to stock, run the car until it reaches proper temp, and then go through tuning for best performance by adjusting the HSN first, getting the truck up to top speed, then adjust the LSN to get best performance off the line, and lastly adjusting the idle speed for a reliable and stable idle when the brakes are fully applied.

BTW, it does sound as if your LSN is on the lean side, just follow the above and you should be good to go! A lean engine is easily broken!

Don't fall into the trap of just winding this screw and then that screw on the carb to get a good idle, follow the above and when satisfied that the HSN/LSN are set correctly with no hesitation off the line or at speed, a good stable idle should be easy to obtain. If the engine hangs a little high after a WOT pass and doesn't drop straight to idle, and the LSN is set correctly, you're just on the lean side of a perfect HSN tune, richen the HSN by 1/12 increments until it drops straight back to idle after a WOT pass.
There should be a bit of smoke off the line and no bog or hesitation when applying WOT off the line, a wheely should also be common. Any sputtering throughout the rev range may indicate the MRN is rich, lean it in 1/12 increments until the truck pulls throughout the rev range with no bog or 4 stroking.

Cheers.

 

[Scrogg]

Install a set of aluminum clutch shoes with 1.0mm springs. This will allow the engine to idle without the clutch dragging. The stock composite shoes and weak stock clutch springs allow the clutch to engage too early. This makes tuning difficult.
Install new clutch bearings while you are at it.

 

[matthewr]

i agree with the clutch shoes, this could cause the car to idle badly, or rev up and down? or it will sound like it is reving too much, also the smoke fromt he exhaust does not neceserily mean it is running wrong, also if you have used a different fuel it will need retuning completely, i would reset all needles to stock and start again, also make sure the throttle trim is in the middle on the controller