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savage 4.6 will not wheelie

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lyndo62

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I set my linkage. The crab fully opens. I tighten my spur gear assembly yet from a stand still i hit the transmitter to full and the takes off yet the car tires do not lift of the ground. You see the weight transfer yet not wheelie. Anyone shed some light.
 
The 4.6 should wheelie no problem. Hell, I dinged my cooling head the first day I had mine because it did a standing backflip. A couple things to consider. First, tuning is an important part of it. Especially the LSN setting. The leaner you can make it, the stronger jump you'll get. But, be careful. Too lean and you spike the running temp which could hurt the engine. Second, get a fair amount of preload on the rear shocks. I think I have 2 thick preload spacers on all the rear shocks. That'll lift the rear, but will also firm up the shocks a little. I suspect that will help a ton. Like I said, mine likes to wheelie a lot so I installed the HPI wheelie bar.
 
Check your real differential before messing with anything. If that is stripped go ahead and replace the ring gear, bevel gear, and bearings. Check grub screws in the drive cups also.
 
Candyman is on the ball. Most people never lean the LSN because the manual says not to. Bullpoop. The LSN is their for a reason. The last F4.6 I broke in wheelied on the second tank, without trying too. I eaased into the throttle and it flipped over instantly.
The First thing I always adjust during breakin is the LSN. You adjust the HSN to the driving conditions.....low traction or lots of high speed runs, you run a richer HSN setting.
Short bursts of throttle, never winding the engine out and or high traction areas you can run leaner on the HSN. Tall grass/Brush is a big no-no, it will overheat the engine and fry HPI's cheasy slipper clutch. You need to run a richer setting in these conditions.
 
How do you guys feel about tuning by temp.

I usually move the hsn 2 1/8 turns and get temps of 260 to 280.

The car shits gears. And that's full throttle out. Roughly two passes. I was told from another source as long as i have smoke i an ok. ??????

yet still no wheelie. I will tinker with the lsn when i get better weather.
 
I typically always tune by temp. Tweak by performance. What I mean is that I try to keep the temp in a narrow range, but will adjust within that to get it just right. And by all means, don't be afraid to adjust the LSN a little. You'll be surprised.
 
lyndo62 said:
How do you guys feel about tuning by temp.

I usually move the hsn 2 1/8 turns and get temps of 260 to 280.

The car shits gears. And that's full throttle out. Roughly two passes. I was told from another source as long as i have smoke i an ok. ??????

yet still no wheelie. I will tinker with the lsn when i get better weather.
Click to expand...

yet having temps 260 to 280. is high according to the manual.
 
I have the truck running about 199 degrees f! I manged to play with the lsn a bit yet do not see any affects. I manged to get it to wheelie 3 times today on really trimmed grass. Yet i cannot get it to do that on command or do it one tar and chip. (alot of sand on the road as well). I may start smaller increments to yet when i push it it to much the truck bogs on take off.
 
Actually i found my problem. I was using 20 16 fuel in my car. Scrogg suggest 30 10 for abc engines. Now with minor tuning the car wheels on command on grass and with tweaking it wheelies on pavement as well. I wanted to go back and use the other crap to just finish it off and the truck was gutless and just all around did not run right. (i got ride of it) All these issues because the guy at my local hobby store gave me the wrong information. hope this helps.
 
it's all in the tune....mostly the lsn like others have said for the torquey take offs (wheelies, etc).

2nd would be your surface that you are playing on....i use 20% nitro traxxas top fuel and after break in with minor tweaks it was flipping on top of its lid on newly paved concrete.
 
Very good advice Trevor, but i promise you Traxxas fuel is one of the most corrosive brands on the market. Switch to Sidewinder or Byron's 30% Pro, your temps will drop and the performance will go up. Both of these fuels are so good that as long as you burn all the fuel out of the engine, no ARO is necessary. I've seen many an engine pitted from top to bottom from Traxxas fuel. There newer blend may be better but I still will not use it.
Look around at what all the pro racers run, you will not see a gallon of Traxxas anywhere. If people have been trusting 200-600 dollar engines with these top brand fuels, there is a good damn reason for it. Quality wise there is no comparison.
 

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