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Savage 4.6 RTR Break-in Woes

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T

tophog

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New to the RC scene. Bought my son a Savage 4.6 RTR for Xmas. I've done some reading, etc. but still a little concerned with the state of the truck.

I'm still somewhat in the break-in. I ran a tank thru it on blocks than another tank out in the driveway doing circles.

The truck has never idled ...always spits/sputters and dies. Each time I start it I always have to give it throttle and keep on the throttle to keep it running. Normal?

It spits raw fuel out the exhaust so I adjusted the HSN about a 1/2 a turn hoping that would help. When started the throttle is eratic ...even when applying some throttle to keep it running it hunts up/down and dies a lot.

Had a hell of a time just this afternoon trying to keep it running ...managed to get a tank thru it but still won't start unless I give it throttle and even after it's started it's pretty erratic and won't idle.

I followed the idle trim procedure and everything appears to be correct. It's only 50 degrees out and didn't think that was too cold to be running it?

Any tips, suggestions, etc. would be welcomed. I thought this was going to be relatively easy to break in and get tuned so my son can have at it...but Murphy always seems to have it out for me.
 
To smooth out a 'too rich' idle, you'll need to lean the LSN, not the HSN. Once you do that, little by little, you'll notice an improvement. Put an infant's sock cuff around the cooling head to help keep the temp up. proper break in is all about heat cycling.
 
I was trying to following the mfr break-in guidelines per the manual but have read all about the other methods of short heat cycles, place piston at BDC, etc. of which I have also been doing. The big problem is the damn truck won't run on it's own or idle. Is this normal for a new truck? Based on the info in the manual even during break-in it sounds like it's suppose to idle normally and run without stalling/quitting ...or no? I also noticed today it will die immediately if I remove the ignitor within about 5 seconds after starting it ...meanwhile I have the throttle applied about 1/3 just to keep it running.

I was paranoid about messing with the HSN, LSN, idle screw, etc. until after break-in but starting to grasp at straws at this point.

I'll try the sock next. Thanks.

Rolex said:
To smooth out a 'too rich' idle, you'll need to lean the LSN, not the HSN. Once you do that, little by little, you'll notice an improvement. Put an infant's sock cuff around the cooling head to help keep the temp up. proper break in is all about heat cycling.
Click to expand...
 
Use the sock for temps, but if the engine dies when you remove the igniter, it's a sure sign of it being too rich. Again, lean the LSN slightly till it will idle on it's own. Running too rich puts a real strain on an engine and really does nothing for the break in.
 
Rolex said:
Use the sock for temps, but if the engine dies when you remove the igniter, it's a sure sign of it being too rich. Again, lean the LSN slightly till it will idle on it's own. Running too rich puts a real strain on an engine and really does nothing for the break in.
Click to expand...

X2
All your problems will disappear when you lean the LSN.
LSN controls fuel flow from idle to 1/4 throttle.
HSN controls fuel from 1/4 to full throttle. Adjust the needle just until it clears out runs smoothly. SMALL adjustments with at least 2 minutes of running before you adjust again.
Get all the bog out of the engine, all that excess fuel is just straining the piston and rod.
 
Thanks for the info! I'll try leaning out the LSN. I was hesitant to touch it since the manual says they don't recommend messing with it :)
 
The problems you are experiencing are quite common. Proper break-in of a nitro RC requires very rich settings. As you get a few tanks through the motor start leaning it out. As you do this the motor will start to perform as designed. Break-in can be a very frustrating experience for the first timer. Just take your time and don't lean it out too soon. It will all come together.
 
My father-in-law's savage broke in with no problems and barely touching the needles. Then when I got mine, I had to actually lean it for just the 2nd tank. It was doing the same thing, and I ended up leaning it a good deal to get it to finish the break in sessions. After the 4th tank of running it mildly, it finally start idling and running well enough to play with.

Take your time and adjust it in or out, whichever seems to make it start easier and perform better.
 
It may be possible that you also need to adjust your idle screw too so that slide vlave in your carb is open at least a 1/16" & also when you take the glow ingintor off and it dies, the glow plug may be bad.:shrug:
 
i just got mine i ran 4 to 5 tanks of gas before i got it right and all i did was LSN it about the6 to7 tank i was able to run it wide open that thang moves verry fast . O yea this is my first rc too
 
Actually that was the first thing I checked and the glow plug(s) are fine ... I bought 5 when I bought the truck and they turn bright red when I touch them with the igniter.

taz1175 said:
It may be possible that you also need to adjust your idle screw too so that slide vlave in your carb is open at least a 1/16" & also when you take the glow ingintor off and it dies, the glow plug may be bad.:shrug:
Click to expand...

I ran another tank thru it today after playing with the LSN some. Never did get it to idle on it's own but much less raw fuel dumping out the exhaust and the motor seems a little more responsive. I wrapped some tin foil around the head also as it was 45 degrees. I probably started it 30 times getting the tank thru it ...if I just put it around it will die as soon as I let off the throttle. Near the end of the tank I was running it harder and it actually seemed to start running a lot better and much more responsive. I think it's more heat related than anything ...or lack thereof.
 
tophog said:
Actually that was the first thing I checked and the glow plug(s) are fine ... I bought 5 when I bought the truck and they turn bright red when I touch them with the igniter.



I ran another tank thru it today after playing with the LSN some. Never did get it to idle on it's own but much less raw fuel dumping out the exhaust and the motor seems a little more responsive. I wrapped some tin foil around the head also as it was 45 degrees. I probably started it 30 times getting the tank thru it ...if I just put it around it will die as soon as I let off the throttle. Near the end of the tank I was running it harder and it actually seemed to start running a lot better and much more responsive. I think it's more heat related than anything ...or lack thereof.
Click to expand...

Well that's cool, at least it sound like your starting to alomost make it throught he woes of the break-in peroid.......soon enough !;):D
 

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