Savage 4.6 Big Block Problems

[Thenervemann]

Hi,

I have been reading forums for like 5 days straight and cannot figure out whats wrong with my RC car. I did the static break in and i drove it around in circles for 2 tanks or so but I'm not getting any power.

Now some background:
The car was started like 5 years ago but sat there for a while and i decided to start it back up again. it wasn't even broken in before. So i did that just recently.

Now I'm not able to start it with out making it lean and holding in the trigger. The car is not going fast at all and it wont idle. When i did the break in i had to hold the trigger to keep it going and had to hold in the trigger all the way to get it going (very slowly) in circles.

I had a Revo in the past and had no problems like this. Cans someone help? I will be checking this forum frequently so fast responses are appreciated.

 

[Thenervemann]

UpDATE:

We turned the HPN 3/4 in and the idler in 2 turns with max trim on idle as well and it seemed to run pretty well and also idled. When we breaked it shut off and it still doesn't feel like it has the power

 

[TRXaddict]

5 years ago before you let it sit did you clear the lines and start the engine so it clears the carb and rest of the engine ? I know that may be hard to remember considering that was so long ago. But a bran new engine is really tight and if it was just barley taken through the break in procedure and sat for along time.. the engine is probably just still rally tight and its making it so it takes a bit to keep it running like you were saying about holding the trigger down. the bearings on the crank may be slightly gummed and the engine is having a hard time idling because so much friction.. or.. it just needs a good tune if nothing is gummed..

I personally recommend taking the glow plug out and if you have some dropping about 3 drops of 3n1 oil. Its great for nitro engines it will really make your engine free up.

Before i give you any tuning advice ill ask you do you know your altitude ? doesn't have to be exact altitude but somewhere near it.

Right now go to the stock needle settings witch is flush with the surrounding cup on the HSN and the LSN. then when i know about your altitude we can work from there..

Other wise i can't give you any tuning advice because stock needle settings are useless at high altitudes but going to the stock needles will give you a starting point.

*EDIT*

* alright well thats good to hear its starting to run better ! If you wanna get 3n1 oil its usually at any auto supply store or hardware store.

It looks like this, http://www.wd40company.com/files/images/3in1-p_379684123.gif or jut ask someone behind the counter and theyll show you.. I find it just as good if not better than oil ment for nitro engines.. its cheaper.. and it works just as good. 2 or 3 drops in the glow plug hole does wonders for the engine it keeps it from gumming and lubricates everything so when you take it out it just runs clean and healthy.

 

[Thenervemann]

770 ft or 230 m or so (pittsburgh). I dont beleive it was cleaned out. I do not have any 3n1 oil. We did replace the gas lines.

---------- Post added at 4:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:08 PM ----------

put oil in it we will see how it runs. imma test it out again when i get the chance

 

[Assassin]

If it idles okay but shuts off when you hit the brakes it could be your throttle trim is not at 0, and its giving a little throttle, when you hit the brakes it closes the carb more then you have it set to "idle" (with trim) and cuts out.

Check your trim is at 0 and when you hit the brake it doesn't close the carb any further, & at the same time when you hit the throttle at all, it starts to open the carb.

Once your linkage is set, check your carb gap, you want this

After you have your gap in check get the truck started and keep it running until you get her over 200f.

Once nice and hot & making sure your not running any trim, park the truck and let it idle until it dies. If your LSN is out of place it should cut out after 2 to 3 min at most, if it stays running over 5min, your better then good.

BUT IF it dies depending on HOW it cuts out will tell you exactly how you need to adjust your LSN.

It will be one of two ways.

A) If it starts to rev slower, struggle and cut out the LSN is rich

B) If it starts to rev up, sound a bit like Chewbacca & then cut out, the LSN is lean.

If A) then make 1/8th of a turn clockwise on the LSN at a time, drive her for 2min at least, then redo the idle test, adjust more if need be.

If B) then make 1/8th of a turn counter clockwise on the LSN at a time, drive around for at least 2 min, and redo the idle test, adjust more if need be.

Once you can sit and idle for over 3min no problem you are good, over 5min and your golden.

Once you have your Idle in check Tune your Top end with the HSN, you want a visible smoke trail all the way up, and you want the engine to sound smooth. It will sound peppy & even not shift if too lean, makes sounds like CHewbacca. dial out the HSN if you hear that at all. As long as your seeing plenty smoke, keep leaning out the HSN as performance increases, smoke is always visible, and the engine sounds smooth.

 

[TRXaddict]

770 ft or 230 m or so (pittsburgh). I dont beleive it was cleaned out. I do not have any 3n1 oil. We did replace the gas lines.

---------- Post added at 4:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:08 PM ----------

put oil in it we will see how it runs. imma test it out again when i get the chance

Ok your not that far up stock needles the HSN should only need just slightly leaned out as well as the LSN . Just focus on trying to make your truck idle "forever" so to speak meaning where you can literally just start your truck and walk away while it warms up and when you have a tune to be able to have a smooth idle that lasts forever, and no stalling after going from WOT ( Wide Open Throttle ) to FB ( Full Brake ) then you can move on to making your adjustments to perform at its best.

As far as idle like assassin posted thats how you need to adjust your carb.. What i personally did so i can gauge my carb exactly 1.0 mm is take an old credit card and cut a thin strip off the top and then you have a gauge so you have a starting point to know when your at 1.0 mm.

As long as it the gauge you made can just slide in and out of your slide gap with just alittle friction on the sides means your perfect at 1.0 mm some cars will need slightly more gap than 1.0 mm but but the credit card gauge will help you know where your at for starters at least.

Good luck. sounds like after running your truck its starting to free up some more.

 

[Thenervemann]

Thanks a lot for the responses. I will try and play with it tomorrow and use all your tips. Otherwise I might not be able to get working on it till Thursday or so.

 

[Thenervemann]

Okay followed your advice, i got it running and a decent amount of torque which will increase as i drive it and tune it in the future. I'm still working on getting it to idle correctly so i can just start it up without pulling the trigger, I'm close but not perfect yet. and it still dies when i brake. I will mess with it this following week when i get the chance.