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Rubber Exhaust Tube

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loaba

RCTalk Basher
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Albuquerque, Nm
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Somehow, I developed a crack/split in the L-shaped rubber tube that runs between the motor exhaust and the muffler. It affected the running of the car. Engine ran poorly and would not idle well or respond to full throttle command. Being as it was a Sunday, there was no running to the LHS. For the interim I have fixed the crack/split with superglue and some electrical tape. This seems to be holding, but for how long?

I need to get more glow plugs so I will have a chance to pick up the part, and I probably will. My question is, how reliable do you think the superglue fix is? Will the heat of the engine effect the bond?

Thanks in advance,
Jon
 
I wouldn't trust it at all. The heat will cause expanding, which will cause leaking. You'll lose pressure to the tank and cause the engine to lean dangerously.
 
I wouldn't trust it at all. The heat will cause expanding, which will cause leaking. You'll lose pressure to the tank and cause the engine to lean dangerously.

So the hose on the muffler, that runs to the fuel cell, keeps the fuel cell pressurized? Okay, I was wondering what its function was.

When I go to the LHS, I'll get a new Exhaust Tube.
 
The fuel line that runs to the fuel tank from the exhaust pressurizes the fuel tank. This is how fuel gets to the carb. Any loss in fuel pressure starves the engine of fuel.
 
Okay - got the replacement part, but I still want to see if I can effect a repair on the old tube. I was reading up on super glue and it appears that it can't really take constant heating up and cooling down. The glue will become brittle. Okay, how 'bout good old JB Weld? With the old tube off, I can clean it up and then apply the JB.

I've always heard stories about how well JB holds, what do you guys think? If it's kosher, then I can throw it in the parts box and have a spare if this happens again.
 
JB Weld does not hold up to heat either. For what the tube cost,just replace it. The better option is a new pipe/header combo that does not use the rubber coupling.
 
JB Weld does not hold up to heat either. For what the tube cost,just replace it. The better option is a new pipe/header combo that does not use the rubber coupling.

Okay, I'll chuck the old coupler and check into a new pipe as well. Thanks for the advice.
 
If you do stick with the rubber coupling, get a few so if it happens again you can just do a quick replacement. It will save you from ending your day and a trip to the shop.
 
Update: I picked up a new aluminum exhaust piece for the car. It's got a bigger opening and it looks it does translate to more top-end power. They thought I'd let y'all know.
 
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