RPM True Track Conversion

[srbecker]

So I spent who knows how long getting my RPM True Track conversion kit installed and playing with the suspension to get something I liked. The problem I am having is that if I set my ride height too high, the Axle rubs on the uderside of the Upper Arm on both sides. The only thing I can do is lower my ride height, but now it bottoms out after only dropping it from 10-12 inches. I would like a little more feed back from the shocks before it bottoms out. Anyone else run into this?

 

[2revo1maxx]

Can't remember now, but I'm pretty sure the upper arms have to go a certain way. Sounds like you have them upside down.

 

[srbecker]

Can't remember now, but I'm pretty sure the upper arms have to go a certain way. Sounds like you have them upside down.

Nope, I made sure the indents were facing down toward the axle. But your right, they do have to go a certain way. Its fine right now but if I adjust my suspension so that the truck sits higher, thats when it hits. I would include pictures but I dont know how I would show that. Kinda a tight area...

 

[Greenskeeper]

Have you swapped the fluid in your shocks for a different weight yet?


Peace,
Story
Proud owner of a Revo 3.3 and a Slash 4x4

 

[nikko508]

Nope, I made sure the indents were facing down toward the axle. But your right, they do have to go a certain way. Its fine right now but if I adjust my suspension so that the truck sits higher, thats when it hits. I would include pictures but I dont know how I would show that. Kinda a tight area...

Don't quote me an this, but, I think I read once that the true track are made for racing to insure that the rig goes strait as possible if thats true you would naturaly want the suspension low to maximize handling again the higher you go the more you will change the function of the true track a arms if they are designed to be low :\

 

[srbecker]

Don't quote me an this, but, I think I read once that the true track are made for racing to insure that the rig goes strait as possible if thats true you would naturaly want the suspension low to maximize handling again the higher you go the more you will change the function of the true track a arms if they are designed to be low :\

Thanks. If thats the case then so be it, but it would make sense. I dont plan on doing too much bashing with it. Mostly flat land stuff, some jumps obviously but I wont be jumping any houses or anything, so I am sure it will be fine with the progressive springs and a spacer. Worse comes to worse, I will start increasing my shock weight.

---------- Post added at 6:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:12 PM ----------

Have you swapped the fluid in your shocks for a different weight yet?


Peace,
Story
Proud owner of a Revo 3.3 and a Slash 4x4

I have not, using stock 30wt. I wanted to try it first before I went to a heavier wt. I think I will be increasing it shortly. Does it make a big difference? What do I need to do when I switch oils, just empty and refill, or do I need to flush out the old oil first? Any suggestions is greatly appreciated!

 

[Bkyd Basher]

i just turned them over and ran the piston up and down and got out what i could,then refill, work the air out by goin up and down with the shaft and piston slowly,let it sit for a few minutes so the air bubbles can release a bit then reassemble.

 

[2revo1maxx]

50wt works good in t-maxx shocks. Don't go too heavy with stock shocks they'll blow.

 

[Bkyd Basher]

50wt works good in t-maxx shocks. Don't go too heavy with stock shocks they'll blow.

Ya there the plastic shock caps right?

 

[srbecker]

Ya there the plastic shock caps right?

Mine arent. I have the traxxas Big Bore shocks which are aluminum with a screw on cap

 

[2revo1maxx]

50-60 wt should be good with big bores.

 

[Bkyd Basher]

i meant the stock t maxx shocks are plastic

 

[srbecker]

i meant the stock t maxx shocks are plastic

Oh, yes they are

 

[srbecker]

Well, after running the T-Maxx for the first time since the RPM true track and a-arm conversion in addition to the new slipper clutch since my last one fell apart from being too loose. I love everything! The true track really makes a noticable difference as far as rear steer and the RPM arms seemed to have helped a little bit with the handling (Plus I lowered the truck a little bit). In addition, my slipper clutch was too loose from the factory, so running it at the proper setting for the first time was amazing! So much pick up, some good wheelies and great throttle response. I love this truck!

 

[Tatsu]

I have the True Track on my maxx, I love it. I am just shocked at my maxi right now, I have an OS .18 and I still can not get the front to lift

 

[srbecker]

I have the True Track on my maxx, I love it. I am just shocked at my maxi right now, I have an OS .18 and I still can not get the front to lift

I am just taking a shot in the dark as I had that problem too, but check your slipper clutch. Mine was way too loose and I didnt even realize it. There are many other things that it could be such as your mixture, Low speed needle setting and so on, but my first check would be the slipper clutch, make sure its tightened all the way, then back it out about an 1/8 or 1/4 of an inch

 

[Tatsu]

Mine is all the way locked down right now. I think my issue is the tuning I have an os 18 that I am fighting with to tune, I am 1 and 1/4 turn out and it is still blowing fuel out of the pipe but if I go any leaner then it stalls out hitting 2nd gear

 

[2revo1maxx]

1-1/4 out with the high needle? The os 18 should be set at 'flush'.

 

[Tatsu]

1-1/4 out with the high needle? The os 18 should be set at 'flush'.

no the High Speed is 2 turns out for break in that close 30% for every tank till you hit 5.

 

[2revo1maxx]

Ok, if it is 2 turns out then 1-1/4 is still way too lean.